North American Turbocoupe Organization



oil pan?
w60 Offline
Senior Member
#1
I'm removing my oil pan (for stupidity described in previous post) and everywhere I look says "...remove the motor mount cross bolts, put a jack under the oil pan and jack the motor up as high as you can..."

Any idea what kind of rough number "as high as you can" is? 2 inches or 12?

It reminds me of when people tell me to call them first thing in the morning and I tell them I'm out of bed about 4:00 AM...then they give me a time frame!
http://www.mycoachonline.com
White 88 TC Auto Trans
White 04 Honda CR/V
Blue 74 Honda Trail 70
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Not B Anymore Offline
Administrator
#2
I don't have a solid number, but it's not going to go up much before the trans hits the tunnel. IOW, not enough to actually remove the pan. I wouldn't jack it up by the pan either. I would (and do) use the crank pulley.
Brian Leavitt
'86 TC 5-Speed -- MS2x w/COP | 83 lb. injectors | T3/T4 50 Trim Stage 3 .63AR | Full 3" Exhaust - No Cat | Motorsport FMIC | Ranger Roller | Ported E6 | Walbro 255HP | Kirban | 20psi | 120-amp 3G | 8.8" 3.55 rear | '03 Cobra Wheels
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w60 Offline
Senior Member
#3
k...I've got a block of 2X4 under each motor mount and I'm about to put the jack under the transmission and jack it up.

In my world of limited knowledge that just seems like it would hurt something, but apparently I should just jack it up as far as I can too?

Do I just put a board on the bell housing and jack it up there?
http://www.mycoachonline.com
White 88 TC Auto Trans
White 04 Honda CR/V
Blue 74 Honda Trail 70
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#4
I agree with Brian, jack it up by the crank pulley, not the trans.
Pete Dunham


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ridgeback Offline
Member
#5
I just recently did this myself. Remove the Nut on the vertical mount bolts. I jacked up my engine until the mount brackets clear from those vertical bolts by at least an inch I would say giving you a total of maybe 2.5" to 3" safe lift. I am not quite sure how much further it would go up but that's all I needed to pull the engine forward off the transmission shaft (I pulled my engine). your not going to get much room when doing this and "lowering the pan". You will have some room to squeeze your hand into the pan and fish around. If you think its going to drop completely off by forcing the motor higher, it just will not happen and you'll will damage something!!!
Ron

Black 87 TC, 2nd owner since [email protected], [email protected]
Current Mods: Gillis valve @18psi. K&N Cone. Removed AC components, New: Esslinger Aux. Shaft, Seals, Melling Oil Pump, Heater core. Ranger cam & rollers, new tower bearings, Walbro 255 fuel pump
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w60 Offline
Senior Member
#6
OK...I got a hand inside the oil pan and didn't find the bolt, I'm guessing it's on top of the oil pump Sad

I'm guessing getting that out is working blind by sticking my hand in and unbolting it?
http://www.mycoachonline.com
White 88 TC Auto Trans
White 04 Honda CR/V
Blue 74 Honda Trail 70
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Not B Anymore Offline
Administrator
#7
It's going to be extremely difficult to unbolt the oil pump in that situation. The two little bolts holding the pump on are the easy part. The nut that holds the pickup to the main cap would be next to impossible, in my opinion.

You need one of these suckers!
[Image: image_25756.jpg]
Brian Leavitt
'86 TC 5-Speed -- MS2x w/COP | 83 lb. injectors | T3/T4 50 Trim Stage 3 .63AR | Full 3" Exhaust - No Cat | Motorsport FMIC | Ranger Roller | Ported E6 | Walbro 255HP | Kirban | 20psi | 120-amp 3G | 8.8" 3.55 rear | '03 Cobra Wheels
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anasazi4st Offline
Senior Member
#8
w60 Wrote:OK...I got a hand inside the oil pan and didn't find the bolt, I'm guessing it's on top of the oil pump Sad

I'm guessing getting that out is working blind by sticking my hand in and unbolting it?

Am I missing something? Is this part you dropped down in there made of ferrous metals (iron or steel)...and if so, why aren't you using a MAGNET to fish around in there?

You'll likely also gather up lots of metal shavings, etc. (well, hopefully not LOTS), which can't be a bad thing.

I'd likely have tried to slide a small magnet attached to a flexible shaft down the hole before I took all this stuff apart. Maybe you already tried that.

I don't have such a tool as described, but something close. My father had a magnet about 5/16" in diameter on a swivel, which was bolted onto a collapsible handle that opened up about two feet. I have no idea where it came from, it's one of the tools I inherited when he passed away many years ago. (It has to be at least 50 years old.)

I'm just saying, I would have investigated every option before I dropped the oil pan, including such a tool. (And admittedly, my father's magnet tool might have been too big to fit in that hole.) Still, I would bet there has to be something like that available somewhere.

Again, perhaps you did. Please excuse me if my tone implies that you didn't.

I realize perhaps I probably should have mentioned this idea earlier...I've been following this thread, and surmised perhaps you had tried a magnet before. But if not, now would seem to be a good time.
Another proud dues-paying member.

1987 Turbo Coupe w/T5OD, 8.8 axle, grey smoke; most options. Got it in 1991 with 41K miles: 3 turbos, 2 heater cores, 1 T5OD full rebuild, 5 clutches, 1 head gasket, 2 Teves II ABS units, etc. later....
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w60 Offline
Senior Member
#9
magnet was the first thing we tried.

That said, no offense taken about your tone. I've done many bonehead things and my favorite "bone head" story (and it didn't even include me) comes from the part of my life when I was launching space shuttles for $420 per week, but I won't digress any more.

The return passageway (with the bolt in it) makes a slight curve and I'm reasonably sure the bolt is in that curve (can't pick it up with the magnet) and probably sitting on top of the aux shaft.

I just fished a piece of picture frame wire down the hole and I have one end at the top of the engine and the other end outside the oil pan.

Allow me to submit my plan for the experts to review.

PLAN:

I think if I remove the aux shaft and the distributor the bolt may finish it's trip to the bottom of the oil pan so I can reach in and pull it out.

If not, I'll take a small BB sized fishing weight and squeeze it onto the middle of the wire I have down the hole and try to pull it from the top and back it out. If it gets to hard to do I can pull the wire back out through the bottom.

http://www.mycoachonline.com
White 88 TC Auto Trans
White 04 Honda CR/V
Blue 74 Honda Trail 70
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ridgeback Offline
Member
#10
what position on the head was this bolt dropped thru the oil return hole?

Oil pump is up front and mounted flush to the bottom of the block. I don't see how it would be on the oil pump. BTW... thats the whole reason why I just recently pulled my engine, I couldn't get my big hands and a wrench in the small gap between the pan and block to remove the pump. My pump also had these odd 12 point bolts that would have drove me insane if I was trying to remove it blind. Had to buy a 12pt socket for it.. I think 10mm.
Ron

Black 87 TC, 2nd owner since [email protected], [email protected]
Current Mods: Gillis valve @18psi. K&N Cone. Removed AC components, New: Esslinger Aux. Shaft, Seals, Melling Oil Pump, Heater core. Ranger cam & rollers, new tower bearings, Walbro 255 fuel pump
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