North American Turbocoupe Organization



Oil leak - camshaft seal?
CB900Fer Offline
Member
#1
For the past three months or so I've been leaking oil somewhere out of my valve cover. The motor was rebuilt last summer, with all new seals. The VC had a cork gasket, so I changed it out for a rubber one (felpro). It still leaked, so I took it apart again, and after another seal along w/gasket sealer it still is leaking from somewhere. I'm at the point where I'm thinking it must be the camshaft seal.

The issue is that wherever its leaking from, it is gettin on the camshaft and flinging it everywhere so I can't tell where its coming from. It won't do it while idling, only at speed.

Any ideas?

Also, is it possible to replace the camshaft seal w/o taking the camshaft out?
1979 Honda XR250
1980 Honda CR80 Elsinore - sold
1981 Honda CB900F Super Sport
1988 Ford Thunderbird TC - 2.3T, 5 speed, K&N, Gillis, dynomax dual exhaust.
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RC Martin Offline
Posting Freak
#2
Sounds exactly like when my cam seal was leaking. Nothing at idle, but after a cruise there'd be oil splattered everywhere and oil dripping down the front of the engine. Seemed to leak more the higher the oil pressure.

Not sure what it takes to replace, I had it done as "warranty work" since it started not long after some other issues with my rebuild. Maybe you can get at it from the front, behind the cam timing gear? I'm not sure. Think it's a ~$20 seal.
Thunderbird Turbo Coupe, Bright Canyon Red TuTone, Desert Tan Interior; 1 of 7 in this combo in 1984 according to Marti.  1 of 13,361 TCs in 84.
   Rebuilt, 3-Angle Valve Job, SYB37 "OE/Small" Slider Cam
   Full 3" Stinger Exhaust to Flowmaster 40, Gnari FMIC/Recirc/BPV, MBC @ 18psi, RF-E6 Manifold, Remote-Mount TFI, PC1 and Flowed 35# Injectors, Inline Walboro 255HP, Kirban AFPR
   Rebuilt Suspension -- KYB & Energy Suspension
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Not B Anymore Offline
Posting Freak
#3
Yes you can replace the cam seal without removing the cam. All you need to do is remove the sprocket and pry the seal out. Make sure the timing marks are all lined up on the cam and crank first for easier re-installation of the sprocket.

The valve cover gasket can be tricky to seal, especially over the hump. Gasket sealer really shouldn't be used with it though. The motorcraft gasket is easier to install and get a good seal in my opinion. 3 sides are basically rigid. The front where it goes over the hump is the only place where it's "floppy". But both the Motorcraft and the rubber Felpro gaskets should be installed dry. It's still really easy for the gasket to move directly behind the cam sprocket when installing the VC. Make sure it goes down straight onto the gasket and not at an angle.

Is there only oil at the front of the engine?
Brian Leavitt
'86 TC 5-Speed -- MS2x w/COP | 83 lb. injectors | T3/T4 50 Trim Stage 3 .63AR | Full 3" Exhaust - No Cat | Motorsport FMIC | Ranger Roller | Ported E6 | Walbro 255HP | Kirban | 20psi | 120-amp 3G | 8.8" 3.55 rear | '03 Cobra Wheels
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#4
As Brian said, get the Ford gasket. It will not leak and can be reused. I have had one for 10 years, and absolutely zero leaks or even seeping.

Any chance the leak is from the cam bolt? Was sealer used on the bolt? the cam is hollow and filled with oil, and unless the bolt is sealed, it will leak out, often a bad leak.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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Paulie Offline
Banned
#5
Cam Bolt Teflon tape is a must. The bolt is under full engine oil pressure. Thanks
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Not B Anymore Offline
Posting Freak
#6
Quote:Originally posted by Jeff K:
I have had one for 10 years, and absolutely zero leaks or even seeping.
Yup! I've had my valve cover off and on at least 10 times in the past year and I've been using the same motorcraft gasket the whole time. It has definitely paid for itself many times over!


Not saying I think you're wrong about the tape, Paulie, but personally I don't use it where sealing oil is concerned. I always use the liquid thread sealant (white permatex thread sealant) on the cam bolt and for other oil-related sealing.
Brian Leavitt
'86 TC 5-Speed -- MS2x w/COP | 83 lb. injectors | T3/T4 50 Trim Stage 3 .63AR | Full 3" Exhaust - No Cat | Motorsport FMIC | Ranger Roller | Ported E6 | Walbro 255HP | Kirban | 20psi | 120-amp 3G | 8.8" 3.55 rear | '03 Cobra Wheels
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Paulie Offline
Banned
#7
HI B Teflon tape is recommended by ford on the bolt. Its in the manual. Also many of the white paste sealers are liquid TEFLON. They are perfectly FINE as you point out. But Gas oil is the best i have found. We use it on the DIESEL tanks. Thanks and once again thanks for the BEARING.

http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx46/...001-51.jpg
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CB900Fer Offline
Member
#8
Ok, thanks guys...lots of good info. I think I'll start with the Motorcraft gasket, because I'm still not convinced it's the camshaft seal. The second time I put everything back together I drove it about 100 miles and there were NO LEAKS. But after looking at the gasket over the "hump", half of it was sticking out and rubbing on the camshaft gear. Wasn't causing a problem, but it wasnt right so I fixed it. Well ever since then it's been leaking again :p

Thanks again guys, I'll let y'all know what happens.
1979 Honda XR250
1980 Honda CR80 Elsinore - sold
1981 Honda CB900F Super Sport
1988 Ford Thunderbird TC - 2.3T, 5 speed, K&N, Gillis, dynomax dual exhaust.
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