Odd random VERY rich condition...

Ok, so with the onset of colder weather the car decided to act up again.. it does the following:

90% of the time it will fire in the morning, then stall out immediately. it will run with throttle, but low throttle sounds like its running on maybe 2 cylinders, and it needs several near-WOT revs to idle on its own (and usually it only starts idling low.. 600-700 rpms). Note: exhaust smells close to fuel mist..or very rare-cooked fuel mist.

The other 10%, it starts and runs normally.

When driving, it sometimes just instantly goes rich (as I can smell it heavily, and I can see the dark cloud I leave on boost). 5% throttle usually makes it jump around erratically, but 10% and up runs normally (TPS issue??). Also, when it goes into its fit of fuel, it will usually stall off throttle, but then start up again right after.


So far my only conclusion is either a tricky TPS (sometimes acting up and sending WOT voltages randomly when the throttle isn't wide open, hence lots of fuel) or a MAP sensor that isn't working right. Also note.. this only happens at one specific throttle position, or at idle.. it isn't RPM-dependent


Could the idle issue have anything to do with the IAC, too? I could probably straighten this out but with the new job I have and 3 motor swaps that have been in progress lately, the T-bird took a back seat as long as it still runs (which it does.. just sometimes eats fuel as per the above situations)


The only thing I replaced lately was the TFI module ($100 for a Standard unit) and it ran great after.

All input is welcome before I have to get under the hood! Thanks.

What's it do when warmed up? Still problems or does it smooth out

What codes have you gotten? Have you checked the TPS? http://www.turbotbird.com/techinfo/Idle-...e2005.html

If you have never cleaned the IAC, it's a good thing to do.

These motors use a BP sensor, which looks like a MAP but is open to atmosphere, not connected to the intake

Check VAM voltage when it acts up. At high cold start idle it should be around 1.3 V

Problem with voltage checking is that 95% of the time it happens on the road when I can't quickly pull off and probe wires, and by the time I get home it stops. It usually doesn't sputter in the morning until you are moving- it just has the problem idling until you give it a few good revs and then its usually ok.

Jeff: When it warms up it is LESS prone to acting up but it still does sometimes.. say cruising at 70 mph.. it will just act like you took your foot off of the pedal, while still giving it minor throttle.. then increased throttle causes it to sputter a little, then medium-heavy throttle is ok, usually accompanied by the dark cloud of fuel.

Here is what I do if I think a sensor is going flaky intermittantly: I tap into the sensor output (tap into sensor output and SIG RETURN at the sensor), and run a pair of long wires into the cabin to a DMM, etc. Have someone watch the meter while you drive.

can I just use maf cleaner in in the bp

Originally posted by pegasus8895:
can I just use maf cleaner in in the bp

By bp you mean the barometric pressure sensor? If so, dont spray anything into the BARO port. The BARO is a solid state device (a capacitance manometer) and might not react well to cleaners being sprayed into it.