Been some snow here in arkansas and i haven't started my thunderbird in about a week. Went to start it today and no go. Tested for fuel and shes getting fuel, tested spark and nothing. Took the TFI off and i believe im reading it correctly and that its bad.
Is the CEL on? Even if it is not on, look for KOEO "hard"or CM codes 14 (PIP failure) and/or 16 (IDM failure) IDM failure means the TFI is likely bad.
Could also be a bad ignition coil. Put a test light across the coil terminals and crank it. Does the test light briefly flashes on and off? If so. coil is likely bad.
Jeff Korn
88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
(02-07-2022, 06:03 PM)Jeff K Wrote: Is the CEL on? Even if it is not on, look for KOEO "hard"or CM codes 14 (PIP failure) and/or 16 (IDM failure) IDM failure means the TFI is likely bad.
Could also be a bad ignition coil. Put a test light across the coil terminals and crank it. Does the test light briefly flashes on and off? If so. coil is likely to be
For what ever reason it’s no test ports under the hood to jump to put the ECU into test mode so with this car when it’s an issue iv been taking said sensors off and testing. Here soon I’m getting a new engine harness
(02-09-2022, 05:58 AM)Cleven Wrote: More or less the actuator rod in the column
Congratulations! So, put the codes aside for now and figure out what happened with that actuator rod. Did you check the ignition switch? As has been mentioned here many times, the voltage/amperage that runs through there is often enough to melt the terminals. While it doesn’t sound like that’s what’s responsible here, it’s where I’d at least start looking. (And, as I harp on here frequently, Jeff’s mod to divert the fog light current to a separate relay and off the ignition switch is VERY well worth it. I was melting that switch every other year until I made that change.)
Another proud dues-paying member.
1987 Turbo Coupe w/T5OD, 8.8 axle, grey smoke; most options. Got it in 1991 with 41K miles: 3 turbos, 2 heater cores, 1 T5OD full rebuild, 5 clutches, 1 head gasket, 2 Teves II ABS units, etc. later....
Yes, probably the ignition switch. Too much current for the connectors (but I've never seen this at the ignition switch) or much more frequently it's just fallen apart. It's got a cast aluminum piece crimped (poorly) onto the plastic body that holds all the contacts. The crimp lets go and it falls into 2 pieces. Usually one end lets go before the others so which circuits lose contact first is pretty random so there is a huge number of symptoms it causes that generally seem unrelated.
(02-09-2022, 05:58 AM)Cleven Wrote: More or less the actuator rod in the column
Congratulations! So, put the codes aside for now and figure out what happened with that actuator rod. Did you check the ignition switch? As has been mentioned here many times, the voltage/amperage that runs through there is often enough to melt the terminals. While it doesn’t sound like that’s what’s responsible here, it’s where I’d at least start looking. (And, as I harp on here frequently, Jeff’s mod to divert the fog light current to a separate relay and off the ignition switch is VERY well worth it. I was melting that switch every other year until I made that change.)
Ignition switch is good.The rod has a lot of play in it causing it not to push the ignition switch . The rod is only like $10 so I’m gonna look at the gear to make sure it’s no teeth missing
