North American Turbocoupe Organization



No start TFI issue im guessing
Cleven Offline
Member
#1
[font=BlinkMacSystemFont, -apple-system, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Oxygen, Ubuntu, Cantarell, "Fira Sans", "Droid Sans", "Helvetica Neue", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]Been some snow here in arkansas and i haven't started my thunderbird in about a week. Went to start it today and no go. Tested for fuel and shes getting fuel, tested spark and nothing. Took the TFI off and i believe im reading it correctly and that its bad.[/font]


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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#2
Is the CEL on? Even if it is not on, look for KOEO "hard"or CM codes 14 (PIP failure) and/or 16 (IDM failure) IDM failure means the TFI is likely bad.

Could also be a bad ignition coil. Put a test light across the coil terminals and crank it. Does the test light briefly flashes on and off? If so. coil is likely bad.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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Cleven Offline
Member
#3
(02-07-2022, 06:03 PM)Jeff K Wrote: Is the CEL on? Even if it is not on, look for KOEO "hard"or CM codes 14 (PIP failure) and/or 16 (IDM failure) IDM failure means the TFI is likely bad.

Could also be a bad ignition coil. Put a test light across the coil terminals and crank it. Does the test light briefly flashes on and off? If so. coil is likely to be 

For what ever reason it’s no test ports under the hood to jump to put the ECU into test mode so with this car when it’s an issue iv been taking said sensors off and testing. Here soon I’m getting a new engine harness
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Cleven Offline
Member
#4
Well nothing . But did find a connected from the junkyard and pulled codes 84,10,11?
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Cleven Offline
Member
#5
Steering column………. My damn steering column ?. Started it from the ignition switch fired right up and has been running for a whole hour
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Cleven Offline
Member
#6
More or less the actuator rod in the column
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anasazi4st Offline
Senior Member
#7
(02-09-2022, 05:58 AM)Cleven Wrote: More or less the actuator rod in the column

Congratulations! So, put the codes aside for now and figure out what happened with that actuator rod. Did you check the ignition switch? As has been mentioned here many times, the voltage/amperage that runs through there is often enough to melt the terminals. While it doesn’t sound like that’s what’s responsible here, it’s where I’d at least start looking. (And, as I harp on here frequently, Jeff’s mod to divert the fog light current to a separate relay and off the ignition switch is VERY well worth it. I was melting that switch every other year until I made that change.)
Another proud dues-paying member.

1987 Turbo Coupe w/T5OD, 8.8 axle, grey smoke; most options. Got it in 1991 with 41K miles: 3 turbos, 2 heater cores, 1 T5OD full rebuild, 5 clutches, 1 head gasket, 2 Teves II ABS units, etc. later....
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teal95 Offline
Senior Member
#8
Yes, probably the ignition switch. Too much current for the connectors (but I've never seen this at the ignition switch) or much more frequently it's just fallen apart. It's got a cast aluminum piece crimped (poorly) onto the plastic body that holds all the contacts. The crimp lets go and it falls into 2 pieces. Usually one end lets go before the others so which circuits lose contact first is pretty random so there is a huge number of symptoms it causes that generally seem unrelated.

steve
'83 & '84 GT turbo EEC-Tuner
'85.5 & '86 SVO twEECer
2x '87 & '88 TC QuarterHorse
'93 LX 5.0 notch Moates chips
3x '95 & '96 GT
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Cleven Offline
Member
#9
(02-09-2022, 11:42 AM)anasazi4st Wrote:
(02-09-2022, 05:58 AM)Cleven Wrote: More or less the actuator rod in the column

Congratulations! So, put the codes aside for now and figure out what happened with that actuator rod. Did you check the ignition switch? As has been mentioned here many times, the voltage/amperage that runs through there is often enough to melt the terminals. While it doesn’t sound like that’s what’s responsible here, it’s where I’d at least start looking. (And, as I harp on here frequently, Jeff’s mod to divert the fog light current to a separate relay and off the ignition switch is VERY well worth it. I was melting that switch every other year until I made that change.)

Ignition switch is good.The rod has a lot of play in it causing it not to push the ignition switch . The rod is only like $10 so I’m gonna look at the gear to make sure it’s no teeth missing
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