North American Turbocoupe Organization



No Start.
Spooler87 Offline
Posting Freak
#1
Well, after having the car cut out on the interstate a couple of times over the last few weeks, my car just died at the end of the driveway.

The car needs a serious tune-up. This is what i THOUGHT the problem was until tonight: I looked at teh condition of the dist cap and rotor after it began doing this the other week. The center tower on the cap is split, allowing the contact/carbon button assy to actually slide up. And my coil wire was shot. So i replace the coil wire and the cap/rotor assy tonite and still no start. I pulled codes, and the koeo and mem codes only come up with a 42 ( another issue entirely) So on a whim, i put the coil wire back on the coil, and hook up a spark plug to the other end.Intermittant spark there, and it doesnt look very stromng at all. plus i noticed that the coil output (to the dist) is loose as well. I have 12 volts at the connector, so power is reaching it, but not producing the spark it should. Fuel pump cycles and i have pressure at the rail. So I have fuel, air, and intermittant spark. in about 10 crank intervals, i got 1 spark, 3 sparks, 10 sparks and then no sparks for the rest.


Sound like a bad coil to you guys? I have a new one sitting in a box, so i'm not concerned if it is, i just want to know


Thanks!
All hail Project "Marauder" !
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turbo86xrseven Offline
Junior Member
#2
Check the wire condition on the power wire to the coil. I had a similar problem with my xr7. The volt meter showed it had 12 volts but if i plugged into the coil and checked the voltage again right above the connector and had some rotate the engine it dropped down to 4 volts. It eneded up being the wire to the coil was corrroded
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Spooler87 Offline
Posting Freak
#3
The wire has already been checked, and the connector is brand new with soldered/heatshrunk joints. Thanks though.
All hail Project "Marauder" !
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#4
I think the coil is a possibility. It's worth a shot to cross check it.
Pete Dunham


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Spooler87 Offline
Posting Freak
#5
True. and since i recently replaced the TFI/PIP with no improvement with the condition, I'm pretty sure it isnt that. I also tested all that before installation. PLUS, it doesnt appear to be heat related. it does it when hot, or even when first backing out of my parking spot. lol. Plus i have an extra coil laying areound, NIB.
All hail Project "Marauder" !
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Spooler87 Offline
Posting Freak
#6
Correction. I replaced the TFI modual without improvement. The PIP is the origional one in the car. I'm going to pick up a spare tommarow.

I replaced the coil, and it started up, but dies right away again. and then no start all over. i have a brand new distributor on my 87 up in storage, so I'm going up north tommarow morning to retreive it. Also, i came up with a code 14 when I pulled the codes this time.


So far I have switched out the cap, rotor, wires, plugs, coil, Starter solenoid (snapped the positve side right off when tightening the nut down Sad ) and the ignition switch. I re-tested the coil's connector and it has 11.5 volts with the key in the "Run position". Is that too low? The voltage stayed the same with both the old and new ingition switches. I also re-checked my wiring for the coil connector, the o2 sensor pigtail, and the Fuel pump relay I added last week. I have yet to do the 12v injector direct feed mod.


Since its not temp related, might it be the PIP is shot?? Thats about the only old component in the ignition circuit now LOL. and just think, This all started out as a normal tune up! Smile
All hail Project "Marauder" !
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#7
I sent you something you can try testing the PIP with.
Pete Dunham


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Spooler87 Offline
Posting Freak
#8
Hmmmm.... correct me if I'm wrong. Ive been at work all night and havnt tested all of it yet....


The CEL is supposed to come on when the key is initialy in the "run" position. The CEL is supposed to go out when cranking. Shouldnt that indicate weather or not the computer is seeing a PIP signal?


If i remember correctly, my CEL would go out when the car actually started, but the times that it didnt and just sat there and cranked, the CEL was constantly ON. Am I on to something, or is the 12 hour shift starting to get to me????
All hail Project "Marauder" !
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#9
Quote:Originally posted by Spooler87:
Hmmmm.... correct me if I'm wrong. Ive been at work all night and havnt tested all of it yet....


The CEL is supposed to come on when the key is initialy in the "run" position. The CEL is supposed to go out when cranking. Shouldnt that indicate weather or not the computer is seeing a PIP signal?


If i remember correctly, my CEL would go out when the car actually started, but the times that it didnt and just sat there and cranked, the CEL was constantly ON. Am I on to something, or is the 12 hour shift starting to get to me????
Correct on all counts, Kevin..... CEL should NOT be on while cranking. Sounds like EEC isnt getting a PIP signal intermittantly.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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Spooler87 Offline
Posting Freak
#10
Well, thats good to know. LOL I went up to my parts car today and picked up the spare disributor. Still looked new too ( It had better, its been on the car for 3 years but actually ran for about 4 months or so.....AND its been inside a garage)

So tommarow is the day of days. Mabey it will run tommarow, mabey I'll be back at square one LOL. Considering everything is new OTHER than the PIP, this should do the trick. I'm going to do the test that Pete sent me before I pull the old distributor, just to be sure.
All hail Project "Marauder" !
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