North American Turbocoupe Organization



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Cullen Offline
Member
#21
I put a larger fuel pump in the tank per the advice of a fellow online who works for a performance group. Could ??? Could the fact that my Frankenstien engine is running real rich (by smell) be because of the larger fuel pump capacity?

Or maybe the mass air flow meter?
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anasazi4st Offline
Senior Member
#22
(04-12-2020, 04:52 PM)Cullen Wrote: I put a larger fuel pump in the tank per the advice of a fellow online who works for a performance group. Could ??? Could the fact that my Frankenstien engine is running real rich (by smell) be because of the larger fuel pump capacity?

Or maybe the mass air flow meter?

I would not have installed a larger fuel pump until I saw what the OEM one would do. Never mind what this “expert” told you. Now you have no “baseline” to refer to.

My understanding of a car’s power train is that parts are generally selected to (hopefully?) work together a certain way. Changing one or more of these components when you’re kind of feeling around for what works is often not a good idea, especially when you don’t really know what you’re doing. By that I mean, you don’t build engines for a living or even a hobby, or understand the complex ways that spark and timing and air flow all work together along with fuel to run the engine in, if not the most efficient way possible, at least in a way that provides acceptable performance.

Changing any of these variables is often asking for trouble.

Then again, we learn by doing. If it doesn’t work you can always change it back, right? Just document everything and take lots of photos, so that you could more easily switch it back. After all, some of the very best discoveries happened by accident.
Another proud dues-paying member.

1987 Turbo Coupe w/T5OD, 8.8 axle, grey smoke; most options. Got it in 1991 with 41K miles: 3 turbos, 2 heater cores, 3 T5OD full rebuilds, 6 clutches, 1 head gasket, 2 Teves II ABS units, etc. later....
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#23
^^^^^ Agree with everything stated above!

Check fuel pressure with engine running at idle. Be sure to pull vac line off the FPR. If press is close to 39 psi, the issue is elsewhere. If press is well over these values either the pump is WAY too big, FPR is bad, or return line to tank is restricted.

Check VAM voltage at 1000 RPM idle between BK/W and W/BK wires. Should be roughly .35 to .40 V. If higher, it can be adjusted by pulling out the air bypass bleed plug (top of VAM at outet end) and use an Allen wrench to set volts to .35 to .40 V.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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Cullen Offline
Member
#24
(04-13-2020, 11:18 AM)anasazi4st Wrote:
(04-12-2020, 04:52 PM)Cullen Wrote: I put a larger fuel pump in the tank per the advice of a fellow online who works for a performance group. Could ??? Could the fact that my Frankenstien engine is running real rich (by smell) be because of the larger fuel pump capacity?

Or maybe the mass air flow meter?

I would not have installed a larger fuel pump until I saw what the OEM one would do. Never mind what this “expert” told you. Now you have no “baseline” to refer to.

My understanding of a car’s power train is that parts are generally selected to (hopefully?) work together a certain way. Changing one or more of these components when you’re kind of feeling around for what works is often not a good idea, especially when you don’t really know what you’re doing. By that I mean, you don’t build engines for a living or even a hobby, or understand the complex ways that spark and timing and air flow all work together along with fuel to run the engine in, if not the most efficient way possible, at least in a way that provides acceptable performance.

Changing any of these variables is often asking for trouble.

Then again, we learn by doing. If it doesn’t work you can always change it back, right? Just document everything and take lots of photos, so that you could more easily switch it back. After all, some of the very best discoveries happened by accident.

..........


At age 74 I am pretty versed in regards to engine builds, operation of the internal combustion engine. I have built many engines over the years and have built several cars from scratch, including this 29 Ford pickup that this engine is now installed in. When I built this project I used front and rear sub frames from a 1992na Miata. (Rack and pinion power steering, four wheel independent suspension and power disc brakes.) I installed the Miata engine and5 speed. But the power was too little to get the box shaped Model A over 55 on a hot summer day. The aero was poor compared to the Miata body. So, I found this 2.3 turbo for double the power and more importantly, more torque.
I do appreciate your input and don’t take your comments as condescending. I know that I have never challenged myself with a project this complicated but as new as this is to me, I love a good test.
i take all comments and inputs as positive so thank you for offering your to share your knowledge with me. I take it seriously.
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Cullen Offline
Member
#25
(04-13-2020, 03:37 PM)Jeff K Wrote: ^^^^^ Agree with everything stated above!

Check fuel pressure with engine running at idle.  Be sure to pull vac line off the FPR. If press is close to 39 psi, the issue is elsewhere. If press is well over these values either the pump is WAY too big, FPR is bad, or return line to tank is restricted.

Check VAM voltage at 1000 RPM idle between BK/W and W/BK wires. Should be roughly .35 to .40 V. If higher, it can be adjusted by pulling out the air bypass bleed plug (top of VAM at outet end) and use an Allen wrench to set volts to .35 to .40 V.
Jeff, as you know I am new to this engine and it’s systems. So some of the things you state,you assume I understand but don’t. What is the FPR? And what is the VAM? 
I have found that different diagrams, different people and others use different terms for the same thing. ECU is called other names as I have learned. Your terms may be something I am familiar with too.
I am capable of learning and am motivated to do so. I taught high school electronics from1968 until the spring of 1981. Then I started my own construction company called Solar Designs Inc where I designed and built energy efficient buildings. Semi-retired in 2004, fully retired at 70 in 2014. Now trying to build cars as my retirement challenge.
I could not have gotten to this point without guys like you. When I put the Miata in the pickup, the wiring diagrams were so consistent and accurate. Plus I had a Miata to salvage all the parts from. When I bought this engine, that was it......an engine with few other parts. So your help has been extremely valuable. Thanks.
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Cullen Offline
Member
#26
(04-13-2020, 11:18 AM)anasazi4st Wrote:
(04-12-2020, 04:52 PM)Cullen Wrote: I put a larger fuel pump in the tank per the advice of a fellow online who works for a performance group. Could ??? Could the fact that my Frankenstien engine is running real rich (by smell) be because of the larger fuel pump capacity?

Or maybe the mass air flow meter?

I would not have installed a larger fuel pump until I saw what the OEM one would do. Never mind what this “expert” told you. Now you have no “baseline” to refer to.

My understanding of a car’s power train is that parts are generally selected to (hopefully?) work together a certain way. Changing one or more of these components when you’re kind of feeling around for what works is often not a good idea, especially when you don’t really know what you’re doing. By that I mean, you don’t build engines for a living or even a hobby, or understand the complex ways that spark and timing and air flow all work together along with fuel to run the engine in, if not the most efficient way possible, at least in a way that provides acceptable performance.

Changing any of these variables is often asking for trouble.

Then again, we learn by doing. If it doesn’t work you can always change it back, right? Just document everything and take lots of photos, so that you could more easily switch it back. After all, some of the very best discoveries happened by accident.

"........

I still have the removed stock Miata fuel pump. I could swap it back if needed. That pump was installed in a custom fuel tank when I built the truck using a Miata engine.
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Cullen Offline
Member
#27
Jeff..... I am unable to attach photos so you can understand what I am building.
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Cullen Offline
Member
#28
(04-13-2020, 04:57 PM)Cullen Wrote:
(04-13-2020, 03:37 PM)Jeff K Wrote: ^^^^^ Agree with everything stated above!

Check fuel pressure with engine running at idle.  Be sure to pull vac line off the FPR. If press is close to 39 psi, the issue is elsewhere. If press is well over these values either the pump is WAY too big, FPR is bad, or return line to tank is restricted.

Check VAM voltage at 1000 RPM idle between BK/W and W/BK wires. Should be roughly .35 to .40 V. If higher, it can be adjusted by pulling out the air bypass bleed plug (top of VAM at outet end) and use an Allen wrench to set volts to .35 to .40 V.
Jeff, as you know I am new to this engine and it’s systems. So some of the things you state,you


assume I understand but don’t. What is the FPR? And what is the VAM? 
I have found that different diagrams, different people and others use different terms for the same thing. ECU is called other names as I have learned. Your terms may be something I am familiar with too.
I am capable of learning and am motivated to do so. I taught high school electronics from1968 until the spring of 1981. Then I started my own construction company called Solar Designs Inc where I designed and built energy efficient buildings. Semi-retired in 2004, fully retired at 70 in 2014. Now trying to build cars as my retirement challenge.
I could not have gotten to this point without guys like you. When I put the Miata in the pickup, the wiring diagrams were so consistent and accurate. Plus I had a Miata to salvage all the parts from. When I bought this engine, that was it......an engine with few other parts. So your help has been extremely valuable. Thanks.
Ok Jeff, I looked at several articles on the 2.3 turbo engine and I am now thinking that the FPR may be the Fuel Pump Return or Relay. In either case, I don’t know where a vacuum line is associated with the Fuel Pump Return or Relay.
And is the VAM the Mass Air Flow device? This one is off of an 87 Turbocoupe. 
One of the things I have found very confusing in 50 or more pages of Ford diagrams is the inconsistency of wiring locations and terms and other components. The Miata was extremely easy to read and study because everything had one name and every wire was exactly perfect when comparing the actual wires to the diagrams.
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#29
FPR = fuel pressure regulator. On fuel rail near front of engine. Has a vac line going directly to intake.

There is a Schraeder valve to measure fuel pressure near the middle of the fuel rail.

VAM = VAF = air flow meter. It doesnt directly measure mass air flow like todays hot wire MAFs do. It actually measures the momentum of the air entering the engine by the incoming air pushing open a flapper valve which is keyed to a pot that sends a variable voltage signal to the PCM. If the momentum of the incoming air is known and the airs temperature is known(meaured by the VAT sensor inside the VAM), the mass of air entering the engine can easily be calculated by the PCM.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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Cullen Offline
Member
#30
(04-13-2020, 10:20 PM)Jeff K Wrote: FPR = fuel pressure regulator. On fuel rail near front of engine. Has a vac line going directly to intake.

There is a Schraeder valve to measure fuel pressure near the middle of the fuel rail.

VAM = VAF = air flow meter. It doesnt directly measure mass air flow like todays hot wire MAFs do. It actually measures the momentum of the air entering the engine by the incoming air pushing open a flapper valve which is keyed to a pot that sends a variable voltage signal to the PCM. If the momentum of the incoming air is known and the airs temperature is known(meaured by the VAT sensor inside the VAM), the mass of air entering the engine can easily be calculated by the PCM.
More good information from you.


I have been reading all afternoon and watched a few videos. learning...……...
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