North American Turbocoupe Organization



No power to inertia switch
danadj Offline
Member
#1
I recently hauled home an 88TC,automatic. The car hasn't run in 3 years. It immeadiately started with ether in the breather and ran smooth as long as the ether would carry it. I unplugged the inertia switch to check for power when the ignition is on but no luck. Where do I go from here?

By the way, the only gauge that does not work as far as I can tell is the fuel gauge.
Is this a coincidence or a connection to the other problem?

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88TC saved from the grave
88TC Black 5spd conversion, 160k+, with front mounted air filter, aftermarket clutch quadrant, autometer vac/boost gauge, dashcap, Walbro 255lph fuel pump,kirban adj fpr, svo t3, dual
2 1/4 in.
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#2
see this: http://www.turbotbird.com/techinfo/Fuel_...ostics.htm
Pete Dunham


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danadj Offline
Member
#3
Thanks Pete, I copied the info and will start at the fuel relay since I am getting the CEL w/key in run position.

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88TC saved from the grave
88TC Black 5spd conversion, 160k+, with front mounted air filter, aftermarket clutch quadrant, autometer vac/boost gauge, dashcap, Walbro 255lph fuel pump,kirban adj fpr, svo t3, dual
2 1/4 in.
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#4
The fuel sending unit is in the tank, like the pump, but is a totally seperate unit. If the gauge isn't working I'd consider it a seperate issue.

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NATO Member. it's not a vice, it's an obsession
Letting the cat out of the bag is a whole lot easier than putting it back in.
88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, mods list at
http://www.turbotbird.com/showroom/pd_88tc.htm
Pete Dunham


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danadj Offline
Member
#5
At the EEC Test connector the relay clicks when grounded, however, when using the test light it is very dim when the connection is made. Also there is no power out of the IRCM at the p/bk wire w/ the key in run postition so I am guessing that it is bad.

Is this a dealer only item and is a salvaged IRCM worth messing with?
88TC Black 5spd conversion, 160k+, with front mounted air filter, aftermarket clutch quadrant, autometer vac/boost gauge, dashcap, Walbro 255lph fuel pump,kirban adj fpr, svo t3, dual
2 1/4 in.
Reply

Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#6
Sounds like you have a bad pump relay in the IRCM. As far as a JY one, what you might want to do is pick one up at the JY, and see if itcures the problem. If it does, and you want to keep the ar as reliable as possible, get a new IRCM, and keep the JY onein the trunk as a spare. From the dealer, (it is a dealer only item), a new IRCM runs about $120, but you could possible get one cheaper on the web from fordpartsonline, etc.

The same IRCM was used in late 80s thru early/mid 90s Taurus and Sable, as well as some Lincolns from that era.

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Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 20 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 02 Taurus Vulcan(wifes car)
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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danadj Offline
Member
#7
I have dropped the tank and found a connector on the red wire to be broken at the pump motor. This explains why I couldn't bypass all the rest of the electrical sys. The rubber sheath the pump sets in has turned into jelly from setting for three years and the gas was really bad.
Any suggestions on pump size and also does a new pump come with this rubber sheath or do I need to get the entire assembly?
Also, I never been able toget power to the inertia switch even thuogh I have changed the IRCM. Is there any reason why I can't run a jumper to the pump and have it come on when the ignition is switched on?
88TC Black 5spd conversion, 160k+, with front mounted air filter, aftermarket clutch quadrant, autometer vac/boost gauge, dashcap, Walbro 255lph fuel pump,kirban adj fpr, svo t3, dual
2 1/4 in.
Reply

Pete D Offline
Administrator
#8
Quote:Any one of the top 4 pumps (for 85 to 97 Mustangs)listed on this link page will work. If your are not going to mod the car much, even the 155 will be better than stock. See the drop down window that says "Select Price" at the bottom of the page. Many of us are using Walbro pumps.
http://www.jdsperformance.com/index.asp?...inmake=all

The above from another post.

The rubber sheath doesn't come with the Walbro pumps. Get one from another car. I don't know if they are available as a seperate item, like from the dealer. Try our Parts Wanted forum, maybe someone has a spare.

depending on conditions, the fuel pump/inertia switch gets power from one of two relays. I would suggest doing the complete diagnostics in Jeffs article and fix the problem correctly. Running a jumper wire as a long term fix bypasses safety features built into the system.

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NATO Member. it's not a vice, it's an obsession
Letting the cat out of the bag is a whole lot easier than putting it back in.
88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, mods list at
http://www.turbotbird.com/showroom/pd_88tc.htm
Pete Dunham


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