No electrical power

I need some help finding the problem with my 88 TC.

Just put a new battery in 3 weeks ago and have replaced the alternator twice.

The seconds alternator rotor siezed and the car left me stranded on a back road. Tonight, 2 weeks after replacing the alternator, I got stranded again when I lost all power. I had this alternator checked and it is putting out 15V. I replaced several fusable links about 2 weeks ago.

This might be a different problem however, I keep blowing fuses for the fog lamps and an intermitten check engine light that won't send codes to the scanner.

I'm lost and would could use any help.

Rob

Intermittant CEL: Assuming the wiring between the CEL and EEC isnt intermittantly shorting to ground (very unlikely, but not impossible), the EEC will have a code or codes stored in the continuous memory for sure. Are you getting any codes at all? If not, are you sure you are running the test correctly? If the 02 sensor ground circuit is not intact, the EEC will not output codes.

Electrical power loss: How old is your ignition switch? Ig sw going bad is a VERY common problem on 80s Fords.

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Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 20 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 00 Windstar (wifes vehicle)

I check the alternator again after changing the battery and with the car running it starting putting out 12.25 V and after driving it for an hour battery and alternator voltage dropped to 12.02 V.

This is the third alternator that has done this to me. This last one was only a day old. I'm getting them from NAPA and they are rebuilds but, I can't believe that I got 3 bad alternators. This last one I watched them test before I put it in.

Could my car be causing them to go bad?

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88 TC Stock

I forgot to ask if the check engine light comes on for low voltage. I don't have an alternator warning light.

What is the black wire (cut and taped over on my car) on the alternator internal regulator harness for? Is it supposed to be cut? I found a similiar black wire deadended on the back of the instrument cluster harness. Should I be worried???

I believe the ignition switch is the original.


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88 TC Stock

I dont know if this will help but i had a problem with alternators going and starting electrical fires. I ran 2 new ground strap wires, one from the battery - to the frame and the other from the same place on the frame to the engine, and suddenly no problems. Dont know what it was but it didnt happen any more as you can tell i went overkill and regrounded everything and it worked???

These cars like lots of good grounds.

Would grounds be causing my alternator to fail? I'm taking it in to have it tested and replaced if needed. Where would I start to try and find the ground? I'm lost.......

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88 TC Stock

Originally posted by cahaal:
Would grounds be causing my alternator to fail? I'm taking it in to have it tested and replaced if needed. Where would I start to try and find the ground? I'm lost.......

Might not cause it to fail, but will cause it to not charge the batt correctly. As others have said, be sure the batt ground is clean and tight, as well as the frame to motor ground strap. Also be sure your batt cables are clean and tight at the batt, and the batt connection to the starter solenoid is clean and tight.

Check the alt output wire and its ring terminal. That wire often causes problems as it gets real hot, corodes, etc.

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Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 20 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 00 Windstar (wifes vehicle)

Checked batt and motor grounds .... fine. Ring connector is fine. The alternator is not putting out 14-15 V when running. I tried flashing the field to get it to charge...nothing. It is only putting out 12.01 V. Solenoid posts are clean too.

Grounding can be a funky thing. Did you read my previous reply, that doesnt make any sense, but i worked. Ford mechanics didnt know what it was, and from what they tested it had a good ground. One mentioned AH MAYBE ITS A GROUNDING PROBLEM OR SOMETHING, oh that helps alot!!! So after some thought i regrounded as i mentioned before. I am not saying that this is the solution for you but its pretty easy to do as a check to see any noticable difference. Besides what i mentioned are you sure your battery didnt get damaged with all the alternator problems youve been having. If i were you i would try to get another alternator and battery, hopefully you have some sort of warranty or something and replace them at the same, then if you still have problems it has to be a wiring problem or the parts guy giving you the wrong parts. Just break it down to troubleshoot possible areas which it could be. If you then know for sure its wiring, as said before ignition switch or other things can be looked at. I only remember about 13V with the car running, but i realize thats more than your 12V. Good luck.