North American Turbocoupe Organization



No Brakes
thejon1880 Offline
Member
#1
How can I determine if the NEW ignition switch has been installed incorrectly and causing a no braking situation.. I have a used MC that I can pick the Accumulator and pressure switch from. I wont be near the car until the first of the month so any tips would be great... thanx in advance
87 Turbo coupe-5 spd-gillis valve-custom hood-K&N in front bumper-and one PORLY running engine.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/340516
Check out the Turbo Bird
LONG WORK IN 0PROGRESS-DONATIONS WELCOME!
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#2
No brakes at all or very hard pedal with minimal brakes?
Pete Dunham


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thejon1880 Offline
Member
#3
pedal goes all the way to the floor. not driveable. I have been told that it is most likely the accumulator. I have to bleed the brakes to make sure its proper. Abs light is constant, no brake light.
87 Turbo coupe-5 spd-gillis valve-custom hood-K&N in front bumper-and one PORLY running engine.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/340516
Check out the Turbo Bird
LONG WORK IN 0PROGRESS-DONATIONS WELCOME!
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xcrunnerbd Offline
Posting Freak
#4
Do you hear the pump motor run when you turn the key to on? Does the brake light turn on then go off or do you not see it at all? Both lights should come on when you turn the key to on, then the motor should run and stop when it reaches pressure and both lights should turn off.

With just ABS problems your brakes will still work, I can't think of any reason you won't have brakes with just the ABS light on.

I'm thinking something didn't get hooked up or not right if it did and that you have an electrical reason for your no brakes.
Project 13 sec. / 30mpg in '88 TC 5Speed : [email protected] / 32+ mpg

On The Car: KN cone, 2-stage [email protected] 15psi wired to fuel switch, Kirban AFPR @ 39psi, Walbro 255 HP FP, 130A 3G Alt., Full 3" Stinger Exhaust incl. cat. no muffler,

Shelf: .48 T3, ported E6, BPV
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thejon1880 Offline
Member
#5
Ok so I went to try to fix the brakes today... not soo good.. I replaced the accumulator but no help from this. this is the deal...with no key in the ignition the motor TRIES to run when I jump out the relay... the PWS makes this sound like it is trying to make something happen but dose not.. I can not get to the PWS to replace so I think I would need to remove the whole MC. I read that the fuse link S near the starter solenoid might be bad but I could not locate it. I pretty sure that I went through the whole brake diagnosis check list but not positive. the brake light only turns on when I turn the car over but only for a single second. The ABS light is on all the time. still hard brake pedal. The brake relay under the tree does have some insulation missing but not enough to short out. I think Im going to burn this car please help if at all...
87 Turbo coupe-5 spd-gillis valve-custom hood-K&N in front bumper-and one PORLY running engine.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/340516
Check out the Turbo Bird
LONG WORK IN 0PROGRESS-DONATIONS WELCOME!
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#6
See the tech articles for the atricle on testing the power rake system. If you follow all the steps EXACTLY, you will find the problem.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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crazyeyeschase Offline
Junior Member
#7
Hey I just got done messing around with my MC and finally got it working. Get a second or third hand and try to jump the motor directly from the battery if it does not work the motor is bad. Taking the MC out really isn’t that bad after like the 2nd time.

Here are the tools you need.

14mm wrench (for the lower right nut inside the car)
14mm deep socket (I used a ¼ socket and a ¼ to ½ converter so I could use my ½ ratchet)
6” extender (this is for the top right nut.)

Keep the pedal pinned in until you unscrew the nuts if not it just gets in the way.

The nuts on the left can both be removed with a 14mm deep socket. The lower right needs the 14mm wrench and then you have the PITA upper right nut. Put your socket on the nut then feed the extension thru, it takes time to find the right spot but trust me you can do it.

Now when you get under the hood you can do 1 of 2 things. Either take the upper intake off or just detatch all the TB junk. If you take the upper off you can easily get to the brake lines and take them off should be a 12mm on front and back and a 14mm on the middle. If you want you can do like me and just take the valve cover thingy majig off. 3 nuts and they are either a 13mm or ½” don’t remember. There are 4 o rings I would suggest getting a flat head and popping them off before you drop them and lose them. The only bad thing about this way is you do have to bend the brake lines some.

Make sure you pop all the connections off there are 9 that you really need to take off. Also there is a ground on the MC you have to take off and 2 vac lines.

When you get to pulling the MC out its out and up otherwise you just end up fighting it.

If this helps any then good if not sorry. If you have any more questions ask away. Also look at the Faq page regarding the problem you had.
87 TC
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thejon1880 Offline
Member
#8
my question is this... what would make the MOTOR run constant? When I jumped out the relay it just wants to keep running. I did get a new relay in. I have a Used PWS but I can not get to it while the MC is in the car. If this is the problem then I might take it out and throw in the doner MC and see what happens. I will not be around the tbird for a few weeks, then if that dosnt work then Im burning it , Or parting it out. I can only give soo much more blood sewat and tears to this car...
87 Turbo coupe-5 spd-gillis valve-custom hood-K&N in front bumper-and one PORLY running engine.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/340516
Check out the Turbo Bird
LONG WORK IN 0PROGRESS-DONATIONS WELCOME!
Reply

xcrunnerbd Offline
Posting Freak
#9
Do you have any leaks, is fluid level full? Sounds like you and CEC had the same problem. Like Jeff said, if you follow the article on the brake system step by step, you will find your problem and know for sure what it is.
Project 13 sec. / 30mpg in '88 TC 5Speed : [email protected] / 32+ mpg

On The Car: KN cone, 2-stage [email protected] 15psi wired to fuel switch, Kirban AFPR @ 39psi, Walbro 255 HP FP, 130A 3G Alt., Full 3" Stinger Exhaust incl. cat. no muffler,

Shelf: .48 T3, ported E6, BPV
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crazyeyeschase Offline
Junior Member
#10
When you jump out the relay you are bypassing the PWS. The PWS is what flips the switch in the relay for power to run to pump motor. I had a drawing to show this better ill see if I can find it.

So if you jump the motor in reality the only time it will stop is when it burns out or there is no more power. If when you turn the car on and the motor keeps running check for leaks. It takes some time for the accumulator to fill but once it does it should stop running. Check the fluid levels it takes a lot more than one thinks.

You can also bleed the rear brakes. If there is a lot of air in them then most likely a gasket somewhere is missing when you put the accumulator in. (im not sure if it has one or not ill take apart my old MC and let you know.).
87 TC
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