North American Turbocoupe Organization

1987ICTC Offline
Junior Member
Hello all! I picked up a 87 TC with 115000 on it. The story was that it had been sitting for years 5+ and wasn't running very well at all. I pulled the exhaust man. and turbo out to inspect everything looked good except a seized waste gate. I took care of all of that and now have some more problems to take care of before I can get this thing on the road and see what it will do [Image: smile.gif]

First of all.... the car will start with little problems and run just fine for about 3 seconds... then it goes into a nasty loaping idle.... i can very carefully get the r's up and it runs like crap until about 3000 rpm after that, no problem ... lots of power. It seems that simultaneously (when the ruff idle occurs) that the check engine light begins to blink steadily, approx. once a second, with no change in the frequency.

I am new to turbo cars, although I am quite an accomplished "back yard" mechanic, I've never seen a check engine light do that before and I was wondering if you guys would have any suggestions on the diagnosis of my problem.



p.s. this NATO site is sweet.... I'm glad I found it [Image: smile.gif] [Image: smile.gif]
1987 TC - LA3 and 3G Alt. conversion, K&N and a Gillis Valve to come.

Now all I have to do is get the brakes working right and put some exhaust on it. My ears are starting to hurt Smile

rairbird Offline
Senior Member
Welcome to the board. That loping sounds like it is the PIP, inside the distributor. As for the CEL, run the codes and see what you get.

87 T/C, 5sp., Hardened Crank, Crower Sportsman Rods, J.E. full floating pistons, .030 over, Total Seal rings, Head and Main studs, Ported/Polished head, 1.89, 1.59 S.S Valves. Motorsport Lifters, A-234 cam, Fidanza Adj. cam sprocket, ported polished lower, gutted upper intake, Rod's S/S headers, 3" DP, T3/T04E 46, Gillis BCV, K&N Air Filter, Kirban Adj. FPR, Walbro 255 FP., 42# inj., EEC-Tuner. Still have to mount the GN I/C, and Forge BPV.
88 T/C stock, 5sp., Soon to be parted out.

SteveX82 Offline
Posting Freak
On your idle...I'd check your o2 sensor's voltage before swapping in any new parts at random. It's oddly coincidental that things clear up once the car goes from closed loop (relying on the o2 sensor's output for fuel regulation) to open loop (using the eec's maps) right at 3000rpm. Make sure the voltage swings intermittently from either side of .500v after the car has warmed up a bit.

Estoril blue 1987 TC 5spd, 145k miles, PRofec B, walbro 255, a237, Bailey BOV, rod's header, spearco FMIC, t3/t4 50 trim / stage III .63, full 3" exhaust, eec-tuner, 55pph injectors, wideband, Nitto 555R dr's
Best 1/4 mile: 13.20 @ 108mph on 26psi, 2.16 60'
Estoril blue 1987 TC 5spd, 148k mi, a237, Bailey BOV, spec stg3 clutch, spearco FMIC, 50 trim t3/t4, 3" exhaust, Bamafuel, LM1, 55pph
Best 1/4 mile: 12.31 @ 110mph on 25psi

JT Offline
Posting Freak
Since your checking engine light is blinking, make sure your BAP and VAF and other EEC sensors are hooked-up. My first suggestion would be to read the codes, as that will pinpoint the issue without guess work. The Tech articles here show you how you can do it without fancy tools.

[This message has been edited by JT (edited 07-15-2004).]

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