New to list need help!!!

Well you see its like this, just bought this 88 tc 2.3 a few weeks ago and I have been working on it every day that I have off. After replacing all sensors and a few other things I think I have my cooling problem fixed. My problem now is as I drive or set the temp gauge and fuel gauge will stay at a normal level but when I turn on the headlights both the temp and fuel gauge go up
to hot and full, I took it in and had the battery,alt,and volt reg checked and all ok.
HELP hunter

Hunter,
Never heard of that one before. Have you changed anything in the wiring anyplace when you were trying to fix the cooling problem?

Do your gauges run consistently all the time when you aren't using your lights? What I mean to say here is..

There is an Instrument Voltage Regulator on the back of the gauge cluster. If it is going bad or is bad then the gauges are off.
One that is going bad, will work for a bit then suddenly spike, sending gauge readings thru the roof. I chased an overheating problem in an 88 Bronco II (uses same IVR) for the longest time til I finally stuck a thermostat in a radiator that the gauge says was overheated and I could stick my finger in there coolant and not get burned.

You mentioned your Fuel and Temp gauges. What is the oil pressure gauge doing? Normally it rises when this thing goes awry as well.

If all 3 gauges are jumping you could try and replace the IVR. It isn't hard to do, and the part cost $33 or so from Ford.



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Kevin
TCx2
88 White TC, 5spd, Loaded
88 Black TC, 5spd, Base
87 LtBlue TC, 5spd,Loaded

Thanks Kevin I will check out that part if I can find it. as to the wiring all I did was replace the ect sensor,temp sending unit and had to replace the dimmer switch. and yes the oil gauge does move when the other gauges move then when I cut off the lighs all go back to normal.
Thanks hunter

I agree, if the oil gauge goes up too, replace the IVR, or build a solid state one... see the link on the home page to James Js article. I have noticed that with my headlights / fog lights on, the fuel, temp, and oil press gauges all read about 1/16" higher, probably due to the IVR.

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Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 20 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 00 Windstar (wifes vehicle)

Where do I find the link to james j's.

look in thbe technical articles under IVR.

The solid state one sounds interesting but my neighbor built one and has problems with it. It makes his gauges read artificially low and it also reacts when he turns on his A/C. Now perhaps he didn't build it correctly but it shows it puts out a constant 5 volts both in the car and bench testing.

I think I would go with the stock, POS IVR. However, don't be alarmed if you put a new one in and it is bad right from jump street. I've been down that road before as well.

With the Oil Pressure gauge jumping as well.. I'd put money on the IVR. Find a replacement.



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Kevin
TCx2
88 White TC, 5spd, Loaded
88 Black TC, 5spd, Base
87 LtBlue TC, 5spd,Loaded