North American Turbocoupe Organization



New TC owner, a few problems.
sicsiksix Offline
Member
#1
Well, I recently purchased a 88 TC with 250,000km on it. I mainly purchased it to swap into my '89 Stang, but that wont be until spring time most likely. So far I've had quite a few problems, but that is to be expected with such high km's. So far I've replaced the cap/rotor/wires/plugs, balljoints, pilot bearing, throwout bearing (the clutch disc/pressure plate/flywheel all looked good so I just put them back in after a little deglazing). Ive also removed my AC, replaced just about all my vacuum lines, fuel filter, rad fan motors (and rewired with a switch/relay), VSS, and found a slave cylinder hold down cover. My cam timing is good and the timing belt looks fairly new. I dont have a timing light so I have to put off checking ignition timing for a bit. Now I'm having a few major problems. First off the pin that holds the wastegate actuator rod to the wastegate pivot arm snapped and a piece is stuck in both the rod and the arm. Should I just drill both pieces out and use a nut/bolt/washers to reattach or is there a better option?

I'm also having some misfire issues, I get code 11 on KOEO and codes 14/18/41/42 on CM and codes 25/34 on KOER. Im assuming this idicates that I need a new PIP/TFI module? I'm going to clean all the connectors and check resistance/continuity today and see if that fixes any problems. I didnt have internet access to research when I did all the work on this car and I am using some niehoff wires and bosch plugs (motocraft cap and rotor though). I know these wires/plugs are probably causing most of my misfire issue, but is it possible for them to contribute to all 4 of those CM codes?

I also have not done my fuel system diagnostics yet as I dont have the $$$ for a fuel pressure tester just yet (plus I want to fix this wastegate problem and get some good plugs/wires on before I get into the fuel system).

With all that being said anything else I should specifically look at now before it causes problems? I know my oil pan gasket is leaking and have a new one, but after looking at how much work in involved I think I will wait until I have more time and possibly another set of hands to help me do that one. Any comments suggestions would be great.
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#2
Welcome.

If you got a runnable T-bird, please keep it amd find an non road worthy example for the Mustang project. Having a parts car is a good plan anyhow.

The WGA rods are normally held in place by small E clips, not pins. It sound like somebody modified your set up. Yes you will have to get the old pin out but I'm not sure there is enough materia to do nuts and washers. May have to do another pin or E clip. A small cotter pin might work.

The CM codes may have been in there from before you did the tuneup work, depending on how long it's been and how many start/shut off cycles the engine has been through

bad wires could account for at least the code 14, not sure about the 18. The other 2 codes could be the 02 sensor but could be other things also. I would get a set of Motorcraft or Taylor Hi Ennergy wires on the thing as a first step and preferably some Autolite 764 copper plugs or the Motorcraft AWSF32-C or NKG # 2238. Gap them around 0.032" for starters. Do that and see if the misfire clears up. Then erase the CM codes, drive it and see if anything comes back.

The 25 and 34 are pretty normal for KOER

When you redo the plugs and wires, remove the IAC (cylinder like thing on the backside of the thottle body) and clean it out good with carb cleaner. It's a good routine maintenance thing. Cleaning out the EGR valve is a good idea also: http://www.turbotbird.com/FAQpage/FAQpag...20Cleaning:




[This message has been edited by Pete D (edited 08-04-2005).]
Pete Dunham


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sicsiksix Offline
Member
#3
Okay, I should have given a little more information. I read the old codes from the previous owner about a week ago, had alot so I cleared them, drove the car for a week and now those are the codes that have been set since all this work has been done. I'm going to get new plugs/wires this weekend as well as check my vam/tps/o2 sensor for correct readings. I've already removed the IAC and cleaned it (it was actually pretty damn clean when I took it off). I've also cleaned the EGR valve and tube off it to the exhaust manifold. The car idles quite well (a hell of alot better than the mustang ever did) so I'm thinking my TPS and IAC are still okay.

As for the wastegate, I removed the c-clip when I was inspecting it. I figured after that came out I could push the pin out but to no avail. If you are looking down from the top of the turbo (with the elbow off so the top of the pivot arm can be seen from above) is the "tab" where the c-clip is attached supposed to push out of the pivot arm? or is there a pin that is attached to the WGA rod that goes inside there? It looks as though it should pop out and then just have a flat piece of metal with a hole in it connected to the wastegate and a pin permanently attached to the WGA rod (sorry I know that was a terrible explaination). Is it possible to removed the wastegate from turbo? or is it like rivetted together.

[This message has been edited by sicsiksix (edited 08-04-2005).]
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#4
I'm not sure I'm following you WGA rod and pivot arm set up. I got a spare IHI turbo on the shelf so I took some pics to maybe aid further discussions.

The WG flapper/shaft/pivot arm are rivoted in. If something is wrong you probably have to replace the whole turbine housing
Pete Dunham


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sicsiksix Offline
Member
#5
Those pictures are perfect! On the bottom of the actuator rod you can see how small the "pin" is where it is pressed into the rod. Mine snapped off flush with the top of the rod with the rest of the "pin" still siezed into the wg pivot arm. I think my best bet is to drill/cut/heat the siezed in piece out, then drill out the piece still in the rod. Then get a bolt the size of the rod hole, make up a bushing to press into the pivot arm that will make that diameter the same as the rod hole, a nut a bolt and some spacing washers and maybe I'll be boosting again! On a separate note, I was examining the spout connector and the connector that plugs into the TFI and noticed that the connector going to the TFI has been replaced. I measured some resistance from the connector pins to the horribly done connectors and it looks like there is alot of resistance, so I'm going to re-do each of those connections at work where I have access to quality soldering equipment/connectors/heat shrink. I also measured the resistance of my coil, I have 0.7ohms on the primary side (two blade conenctors), and it seems I only have 9.2kohms from the secondary terminal to the fairly rusty core (I scraped a bit to get a good contact). 9.2kohms seems very low to me, shouldnt it be like 30k or something?
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#6
Quote: On the bottom of the actuator rod you can see how small the "pin" is where it is pressed into the rod. Mine snapped off flush with the top of the rod with the rest of the "pin" still siezed into the wg pivot arm. I think my best bet is to drill/cut/heat the siezed in piece out, then drill out the piece still in the rod. Then get a bolt the size of the rod hole, make up a bushing to press into the pivot arm that will make that diameter the same as the rod hole, a nut a bolt and some spacing washers and maybe I'll be boosting again!

OK now i'm with you. Yes you could try the bolt and nut thing. Just get high grade stuff because of the heat

Somebody else will have to chime in on the desired resistance values. Defintely fix those bad connections.
Pete Dunham


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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#7
CM code 14 can be caused by a bad PIP inside the dist, or EMI/RFI from the secondary ignition system, or a grounding problem. Ecery time I have seen a CM code 18 the TFI was on its way out.

------------------
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 23 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car) // 91 Topaz (daughters first car)
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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sicsiksix Offline
Member
#8
Are there any testing procedures for the TFI? I know its an expensive unit and would like to know 100% if its dying on me or not.
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#9
I'll email you a testing procedure.
Pete Dunham


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