North American Turbocoupe Organization



new TC owner
davidz Offline
Junior Member
#1
I just picked up an 88 auto TC. ITs burgendy with burgendy interior. 168K on it. Has had trans fluid/filter and pan gasket changed a few thousand miles ago it shifts good. Steering rack and power stearing pump done too. It fires right up and doesnt smoke. There is a dent on the driverside door and the pasenger window doesnt roll down. Im putting some NGK plugs in tommorow and chaning the oil. It is only getting 6 psi in prem. fuel mode and i hear a little hissing comming from where the switch is there a leak maybe? Would a boost controller solve this? I like the car hopefully it should get me around for a while and I will probably be asking some more questions later.
88 TC
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#2
Congrats on the new car.
The boost gauge may not be accurate. The 87-88 autos were limited to 10 psi max

If you have the manual heat/AC sytem, the various blend doors are vacuum controlled so there could be a leak there, behind the center of the dash an over toward the pass side.
Ther may be a leak in the acuum hose to the boost gauge, this is common.

An aftermarket boost controller will let you dial in more boost but with the auto trans it isn't a good idea. It will not cure a vacuum or boost leak
Pete Dunham


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Steve B Offline
Member
#3
Wow we have had lots of new owners posting in here lately. That is awesome. People are finally figureing out how sweet these cars are. The only downside is we might not be able to get them so cheap anymore. Anyways welcome to the board there is a ton of info here and plenty of nice knowledgeable guys for help.

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Steve
1988 Turbo Coupe 5 Speed, Med Red, K&N Filter, Gillis, Ranger Roller Soon
Was stock for 3 months now the snowball is rolling.
Steve
1988 TC 5 Speed, Med Red, 60/48 T3, 24 PSI, Ranger Cam, Mallory 2 Step, 3" Dual Exhaust, FMIC w/ Forge BOV
Current Best 14.5 @ 93.64
My Car
More
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Ryan H Offline
Posting Freak
#4
Welcome aboard! If you take care of the car, it will take care of you. The first thing I do when I get a car is change ALL fluids. If you are mechanically inclined, I would recommend you do so [Image: smile.gif]

If you want a good start to wrenching on your TC, start by pulling the codes [Image: smile.gif] The EEC will tell you any system faults that it has detected.

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Ryan Harris

88 TC, 5 speed, B&M Ripper Shifter, Walbro 190 LPH, K&N, 3.73's, 88K miles

Awaiting install: Volvo FMIC, Walbro 255 HP, Aeromotive Adj. FPR, NEW stock IHI, SPEC Stage III, CAI
'88 TC Smile Walbro 255HP, Stinger FMIC, PIT BOV, Pro 5.0, Kirban, RR cam, FRPP strut tower brace, T3
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Matt S Offline
Posting Freak
#5
Save your money on the NGK's and buy the cheap autolite 764's, and stick with motorcraft wires. There's a few other brands that work but I can't remember what they are.
Point is many a crazy miss has been caused by "better" aftermarket parts when the stock ignition parts work best.
Sold it Sad*
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davidz Offline
Junior Member
#6
The NGK's were only 6 dollars thats pretty cheap for me. The car cant even turn the tires over is that usual? There is no difference with prem. and regular settings. Will the car pick up good from better exhaust and a better breathing intake. My 95 SC had a big differnce when i took the cats off im guessing it should be the same since this is turbo. The hissing sound also stoppes when i step on the brake.
88 TC
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Ryan H Offline
Posting Freak
#7
NGK's seem to be fine in our cars, but read up on the ignition system before you decide to change anything else. Our cars are VERY picky when it comes to ignition wires and plugs.

It is normal for the car not being able to spin the tires, even when you get 10 PSI. My auto would only peel out in the rain, and conveniently when you didn't want them to [Image: biggrin.gif] You really won't notice any difference with the switch, especially since you're only getting 6# of boost. Check the intercooler hoses for cracks and check the clamps to make sure they are tight.

Since your car is new to you, I'd go ahead and check the basic stuff (cam timing, crank timing, ignition timing) and make sure there are no codes. If there are codes, you need to address the issue [Image: smile.gif]

Getting a 3" downpipe and removing the cat will make a difference but I still doubt you'll ever be able to burn out unless you powerbrake or turn the boost up- both of which will beat your transmission to hell. If you want to get involved and free up lots of power, I'd suggest a 5 speed swap (tranny and computer). You can run 18 PSI and roast the tires all you want (as long as you don't mind wearing out clutches/tires [Image: biggrin.gif])

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Ryan Harris

88 TC, 5 speed, B&M Ripper Shifter, Walbro 190 LPH, K&N, 3.73's, 88K miles

Awaiting install: Walbro 255 HP, Aeromotive Adj. FPR, new IHI, SPEC Stage III, K&N cold air

[This message has been edited by Ryan H (edited 08-10-2005).]
'88 TC Smile Walbro 255HP, Stinger FMIC, PIT BOV, Pro 5.0, Kirban, RR cam, FRPP strut tower brace, T3
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davidz Offline
Junior Member
#8
im not looking to make it a race car or anything just want to make it more fun to drive. the car idles at around 1300 so im guessing there has to be a leak somewhere. also what does it take to put a T3 from a merker on this car?
88 TC
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#9
http://www.turbotbird.com/FAQpage/FAQpag...%20(87/88)
Pete Dunham


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