new PIP and TFI... same old problem

I guess I'll ask the experts on this. Rebuilt distributor (from NAPA) and TFI (from Ford) and I still have the cutting out problem. The problem has gotten better... used to cut out at idle, all over the powerband, boost or no boost, cold or at operating temp. It was happening about every 3 to 15 seconds. No pattern what so ever. Now she idles fine, but I still get it once in a while (this is the problem like the key is shut off and turned back on right away). I just swapped out the old plats (came with the car) to autolite 764's with a 30 gap. The car came with MSD wires and I'm going to change to my Ford racing wires to see if that helps. I'm leaving to get a code scanner right now (old OBDII one no good for this bird). I'll post the codes as soon as I get them.

Don't get me wrong, she is driveable now... before it was a whiplash mobile. It cut out so much you had to watch that you didn't hit your head on the steering wheel or the head rest. not fun... but funny to describe [Image: smile.gif]

I would suggest you stick with the stock replacement wires.

E8PZ-12259-A IS THE FORD P/N. WR-4011-C is the Motorcraft #. Both numbers appear on the box.

Let us know on the codes

so I got the typical PIP code, but I also got HEGO staying rich (exhaust smells fine tho) and TPS out of voltage range. those codes were KOEO. For the running test I only got the KS code (I tapped the intake but still no dice) I'm going to try the wires and then check the voltage for the TPS.

Have you ever replaced your ignition switch? My bird was doing the EXACT same thing and it turned out to be a bad ignition switch. If I moved the key just right it would cut out which would happen naturally going down the road. Just a thought.

I am assuming you got a continuous memory code 14 - intermittant PIP signal. If so, first thing to do is replace wires, cap, rotor with Motorcraft parts. Seems as if some brands of tune up parts, mainly wires, generate excessive EMI/RFI that interferes with the low voltage PIP signal.

Was the O2 code a CM code 42? For now, I would just erase the continuous memory, and see if the code returns.

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Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 21 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 02 Taurus Vulcan(wifes car)

the switch was replaced before I bought the car. I'll try fiddling with it again to see if that causes it. I know I can stop the door chime on my 94 with a little wiggle of the key...
I work for a shop and I get parts from the dealer at wholesale prices, so I picked up the wires today. If I get home early enough tomorrow I'll swap them out. I'll also swap out the cap and rotor. I also erased the codes to see if any return.

Correct me if i'm wrong, but the MSD Wires
(8.5mm Super Conductor....Helicly Wound) Supress EMI Better than any solid core wire that i've found. As advertised, at 100 mhz, MSD super conductor wires supress EMI 10 times better than a set of aftermarket solid core wires. I Hypothesise that the problem eveybody is having with the MSD wires is related to the other "Tune up components" used in conjunction with them. I'm running the MSD Super conductors with a blaster 2 coil, 6AL box and a Borg Warner Cap and Rotor. I Also am using the Rebuilt Motorcraft Distributor from NAPA with a Borg warner TFI Modual. My PIP/TFi codes went away, but not right away after I changed the Whole Dist. I think that had to do with the continuous memory erasing itself after so many turns of the key (IThink i read that somewhere) I Would say that if you Use Motorcraft parts- Use them and only them. If you decide to go afermarket, campare products and do your homework. certian combos seem like thay dont work as well as others. Just as a side note, my set up has worked just fine for about 6 months without even a Hiccup.

Just my 2$

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87 Tubocoupe, Light Regatta Blue, All Options incl. Leather; 2.5" exaust, Dynamax super turbo mufflers w/3"chrome tips, MSD 6AL, Blaster2 Coil and wires, Homemade adjustable boost valve.

"May the fluids under the hoods of the beleivers flow forever"

"Have you ever replaced your ignition switch? My bird was doing the EXACT same thing and it turned out to be a bad ignition switch. If I moved the key just right it would cut out which would happen naturally going down the road. Just a thought."

At one time, I was having the same trouble with my ignition. I'd be driving down the road and hit a bump and my car would die. I thought I was going to have to replace the ignition, but my brother suggest a very simple fix. The ignition has a plate on the column that faces the floorboard. Not sure what it covers. Anyways, holding the plate in place are some metal tabs. All we did was put the key in the ignition, push the plate firmly against the ignition box and hammer the tabs down to compress the plate better. I don't know if anyone has tried this, but it fixed my car right up and haven't had any troubles whatsoever. Now this was done on a Mercury Capri, but I looked at my Tbird and it's put together the same way. You might try it.

I have never heard of anybody having any problems with quality aftermarket cap and rotor. I think people just like to say use all ford stuff because they have heard it so many times. People tell me that runing any plugs but ford is bad. I have had good luck with anything but platnums. I used a ford cap and within a month the coil wire conductor was loose in the cap. They are real cheap caps. I get the high end borg warner parts. They have solid brass electrodes. I also found that Belden premium wires work great. The first set I got years ago had ford stamped into the boots. The only thing that was not the same was the name printed on the wire. Belden makes the wires for ford. Bosch wires are crap and causerd a miss on my friends car.

I feel your pain I had the same cut out problem years ago. It took me 8 months to get it fixed. It was the TFI.

Thanks all! Now I've got some things to do this sunday! The wires were not that bad. They were $30 from ford (no tax, get them at wholesale) Also, my fans work in the diag, but not when hot (only REAL hot, then the 2nd fan comes on) so I'm going to replace the ECT too at $48. That should help out too.