North American Turbocoupe Organization



New owner with slight problem
Whodat Offline
Junior Member
#1
I recently purchased an '84 turbocoupe. I got the car home and am currently attempting to put it into better shape (runs strong just has a few minor issues). The problem I've been facing since I got it is that whenever I start it up I am forced to give it some gas. After it starts up it then refuses to hold an idle. If I am not pressing the gas the RPM's will slowly lower and it will die. As i begin to drive it will continue to do this, anytime i let off the gas it dies (a real problem when i lose my power steering). But after a few miles it will begin to hold an idle just fine. I really don't want to waste money on something I don't need, so I'm trying to figure out what could be causing this.

I have not yet run the codes either.
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oldraven Offline
Senior Member
#2
You should check the FAQ's and look under, http://www.turbotbird.com/FAQPage/FAQpage2.html#Runs Look at 'Runs Rough and Misses' under the 'Common Problems' column.

You can also try changing your O2 sensor, as this is the only thing that worked for me, after two years of trying everything else to get my idle back to normal.

[This message has been edited by oldraven (edited 04-17-2004).]

[This message has been edited by oldraven (edited 04-17-2004).]
I'd like to think my life has a soundtrack, and it sounds just like the white album.

1987 Turbo Coupe, 5-spd. Candy Apple Red w/ Charcoal Smoke Accents, k&n drop in, 2.5" duals. Stirring from her winter slumber.

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CAW!!
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#3
Pull the codes. There are articles on how to do this in the Technical Articles, linked off the Home Page. Let us know what you get before you spend $$ on parts.

Also clean the idle air control valve, the cylinder shaped thing on the back of the throttle body. Take it off and spray it inside with carb or brake cleaner.
Pete Dunham


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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#4
Sounds like an IAC problem. When you clean it out as Pete suggested, look carefully at the electrical connector for the IAC to see if it is making good contact, etc.

If IAC is not working, KOER test will show a code 12.

------------------
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 21 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 02 Taurus Vulcan(wifes car)
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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Whodat Offline
Junior Member
#5
Well, to start off I should probably mention that when I got the car one of the IAC wires was not connected. I did a little home made job to get it to stay in place. I finally got time to remove the IAC and clean it out. Started it up and still the same problem. That was when I realized that I had not plugged the IAC back in. So it seems to be acting the same way whether the IAC is plugged in or not.


Between work, school, and not understanding how to pull the codes...I haven't quite gotten it done. But i now think that I understand so I should be able to do that today.
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