North American Turbocoupe Organization



New Clutch
dezridin2 Offline
Member
#1
Going to replace clutch & flywheel as soon has I get the parts from Summit. Is there any thing I should do while I have the trans out? 1988 t/c 196thou miles
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zip Offline
Member
#2
I would do the rear main seal while i had the trans out.
Matt
86 TC 5spd:QH/SD,Walbro190,CFI 52#, AFPR,WB,FMIC,3"dp to axle, .63 T3, E6,Stock Longblock.
Shelf:N/A 2.3, Die grinder, Carbide Burrs.
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gadgetolds Offline
Posting Freak
#3
Definately a rear main seal. Probably u-joints too
1988 Turbo Coupe - A237 cam, K&N Cone, T3(.60-.63), 255 Walbro, Gillis BV, gutted and knifed intakes, ported e6, 3" elbow/dp to dual 2.5s, Kirban and spearco fmic.

Up next, ported head, t3/t4 upgrade.
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#4
Either get the flywheel resurfaced, or get a new flywheel from NAPA for around $50 (the best choice). If you get the old one resurfaced, be sure to get a shim to compensate for the amount removed from the old one.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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Spooler87 Offline
Posting Freak
#5
Rear main is a no brainer. Its right there, and even if it isn't leaking its a good thing to do.

I would check the condition of the output shaft while you are at it...Get the driveshaft balanced and new U-joints put in too. You might as well, if it is already out.
All hail Project "Marauder" !
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dezridin2 Offline
Member
#6
Dont i have to drop the oil pan to get to the rear seal. Got all of the parts today. going to rebild the trans while im at it. As any one ever here ever rebilt there T-5? I did not get any gaskets with the rebuild kit. Do you need gaskets?
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#7
Quote:Dont i have to drop the oil pan to get to the rear sea
No. One way to remove it is to thread a couple screws in it, 180* apart, and then use them as leverage to walk the seal out
Pete Dunham


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PetzJC Offline
Senior Member
#8
Quote:Originally posted by Pete D:
Quote:Dont i have to drop the oil pan to get to the rear sea
No. One way to remove it is to thread a couple screws in it, 180* apart, and then use them as leverage to walk the seal out
....or use a seal puller tool....
Former owner of 88 Silver T/C, loaded (except leather & A/T), original owner, 294,815 miles!!!
K&N, Gillis(18 psi), SVO roller #1, big SS valves, ported intake, head, & exhaust.
Short block & turbo original/untouched, spec-II/III clutch combo.
Polyurethane bushings throughout, Goodyear GT-HR 235/55R16
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PetzJC Offline
Senior Member
#9
Oh yeah, don't forget to replace the pilot bearing/bushing in the end of the crankshaft....
Former owner of 88 Silver T/C, loaded (except leather & A/T), original owner, 294,815 miles!!!
K&N, Gillis(18 psi), SVO roller #1, big SS valves, ported intake, head, & exhaust.
Short block & turbo original/untouched, spec-II/III clutch combo.
Polyurethane bushings throughout, Goodyear GT-HR 235/55R16
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dezridin2 Offline
Member
#10
Ok..I did not get a pilot bushing but will do so. Thanks
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