New Car Makes No Power at Low RPM?

Thanks Guys!!!

Ok, the timing looks correct but if the marks are off then who knows.

The MAF conversion is the MP for sure. Plugs look a bit on the rich side...

I found a gas leak where the line goes into the fuel rail. Fixing that now.

Will try the string method next.

Mother f*!%er it looks like the timing is off a tooth.
Although it lines up 100% with the plastic cam timing mark the mark on the cam sprocket does not line up with the center line of the two bolts. I have not put a string across it yet but i can tell by eye.

How does that timing mark get off?

Phew, i hope this gets it back in proper form. Ill report back in a couple hours.

Never mind. With the string on it it looks on.

Timing belt is moving off the back of the cam gear. Loose tensioner?

Is the belt guide (convex shape piece of metal) in back of the cam gear installed? If so, the bearing in the tensioner is likely going and causing the tensioner pulley to **** causing the belt to do that. How does the belt look? Might be worth it to replace the belt and tensioner..... then you know both are new and you wont have to worry about it for 60K miles.

Ok, so as i rotate the cam i can feel it the lobes come off the rollers and close the valves. that does not happen near first the timing mark.

But there is another mark... Did he have it timed to the wrong mark. Here is a picture. It was originally timed to the mark with the degrees on it. im wondering if it should be timed to the one it to the right of that.

https://picasaweb.google.com/10094627407...4921648130

No clue if the older Race Engineering adjustable sprocket is correctly timed or not. Some manufacturer (I forget if it was RE or not) of adjustable sprockets did have a problem with the marks not being set up right for at least 1 production run. ASSuming the marks are correct, you want the right most white mark on the outer part of the sprocket in your pic to line up with the string. The left most mark is just for the adjustment. What I would suggest is either 1) Pull the valve cover and "E bar" the cam to verify correct timing with the adjuster set at zero (no advance or retard), or 2) get a stock sprocket and start with that. There are instructions on using the "E bar" method here or over at Turboford (I forget where they are, and I am too lazy to look for them).

If I were you I would take the Race Engineering unit off and place it on top of the stock unit. Line up the cam notch in both the pulleys to ensure that the timing mark is in the correct spot.

OR

Just take the camshaft bolt off and see if the notch in cam gear/camshaft keyway lines up with the TDC mark. If it doesnt set 0 to match the notch.


OR

I would pull the Race engineering unit off and put a stock pulley on there to get the timing right. Then slap the race unit back on later.

pics of stock mark and as you can see the TDC mark should line up with notch in cam gear.
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t97/b...eymain.jpg
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t97/b...ngmark.jpg


Once you have that done, then set the timing.

I bought an old Essy when I first got my car, and Esslinger didnt have the mark in the right spot. I was going nuts to set the timing. Finally I took it off and lined the Essy and stock unit up and saw that the mark was wrong. Lots of cussing and beer ensued, but I got it right

If it is suposed to be lined up to the mark on the right he had it on the wrong one.

CAnt belive it ran that far off. Im pulling the gear off now and will try the stock one and see where it lines up.

Stock gear on a non stock cam should still have the marks in the same place right?

Originally posted by 6 Fingered Man:
If it is suposed to be lined up to the mark on the right he had it on the wrong one.

CAnt belive it ran that far off. Im pulling the gear off now and will try the stock one and see where it lines up.

Stock gear on a non stock cam should still have the marks in the same place right?

Yep, than play with it from there, but start with the true TDC first.