North American Turbocoupe Organization

Negative Battery Cable
JLZ88 Offline
Junior Member
Hey everyone. 

Got my car out of storage a few days ago and while I was putting in the battery I noticed that the negative battery clamp is starting to crack where the nut compresses it against the terminal. Common logic would say replace the cable, but I realize those are probably rarer than headlights and tail lights at this point!

Knowing that there is no OEM replacement, is there another Fox-body cable that works?  It would appear as if our cable is a bit unique in that one of them ‘pigtails’ into 3 other cables. It would be nice to have a plug and play type solution. 
Or should I just cut the clamp and replace it with another? I’m not in love with the idea of making the cable shorter but if it’s the easiest thing to do then maybe I’ll consider it. I’ve never had to do heavy duty electrical work on a car before, so I don’t want to mess it up. 

Thank you!

Jeff K Offline
Measure the approximate length of the current cable and go to any parts store and pick up a similar length cable for a couple $$.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized

88Slowbird Offline
WC8699 Motorcraft 

they have them on rockauto for like $20
1988 TC (Mach 1 edition): Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, manual boost controller, Stinger FMIC, Forge blow off valve
1985 SVO: Pro 5.0 Shifter, Boport valve springs, Ranger R Cam, Manual boost controller

JLZ88 Offline
Junior Member
Thanks guys. I really appreciate it.

I figured I was probably overthinking it. Off to RockAuto I go…

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