What do you mean by "the activator"??? There are 4 activators, one on top of each strut and shock. There is no way to wire the activators themselves to stay in the firm mode. A constant 12V applied to any activator will burn it up in a short time, possible causing a fire.
The FIRM/AUTO switch should only have 2 wires to it. The REG/PREM fuel switch has 3 wires. If you want to do a real hatchet job on it, cut the wires to the switch and jumper the wires together to get FIRM all the time. Why not just replace / repair the switch? It only takes a few minutes.
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Jeff Korn
88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 20 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 00 Windstar (wifes vehicle)
Jeff Korn
88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized