North American Turbocoupe Organization



Need some assistance...
Kuch Offline
Senior Member
#1
So I posted earlier about my car running extremely rich and the pass side fan is running, I swapped out the ECT but it is still having the same issue. I hooked up my old scanner to see what codes come up, but as soon as I turn the key to on, the scanner beeper goes on and stays on. So essentially, as soon as I start the codes test, it is already steady on, with no flashes or anything. Do you think this means that the computer is shorted out or bad? To recap, as soon as I turn the key to "on" not start, it runs the pass fan, gives me a check engine light, and I cannot pull codes. If it does start, it run extremely rich and the fan stays on. I tried wiggling harnesses all around the engine bay and the pass kick panel near the computer to see if the scanner beeper would go off, but it made no difference. Thoughts?
1988 Turbo Coupe, Black/Black, 5 Speed, Moonroof,  T3/T4, ported E6, 255LPH, Kirban, Stinger Exhaust, MGW shifter, K&N, Gillis valve, BP1.5, PIMPx, Koni's
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL, 390 6V, Big Solid cam, Headers,3.89's, 4 Speed, Vast and fast
1960 Ford Starliner, 292 Y Block, 312 4bbl intake, headers, 3 Speed, slow and low
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Kuch Offline
Senior Member
#2
I did some more searching around on here and found this link, https://turbotbird.com/thread-88-turbo-c...t=no+codes , it has the same symptoms as mine and it seems that a bad ECM will do this. As mine is an 88 5 speed, I assume it should have an LA3 in it, The sticker on the side of mine is unreadable. Does anyone have an LA3 they would sell so I can swap mine out? Thanks
1988 Turbo Coupe, Black/Black, 5 Speed, Moonroof,  T3/T4, ported E6, 255LPH, Kirban, Stinger Exhaust, MGW shifter, K&N, Gillis valve, BP1.5, PIMPx, Koni's
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL, 390 6V, Big Solid cam, Headers,3.89's, 4 Speed, Vast and fast
1960 Ford Starliner, 292 Y Block, 312 4bbl intake, headers, 3 Speed, slow and low
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JT Offline
Posting Freak
#3
Not being able to retrieve codes could be a circuit issue, EEC issue or tool issue. The Check Engine light coming on KOEO is indicating the EEC is powering up. Sometimes when they fail, this is not the case.

You could check for 5 volts on at the Throttle Position Sensor connector between the Orange/White and Black/White wires (vehicle side of the harness when disconnected from the TPS) as that would tell you if the EEC is powering up and providing reference voltage to the sensors.

Just to make sure, you did replace the correct ECT? The one under the upper intake manifold near the injectors?
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Kuch Offline
Senior Member
#4
thanks JT, I will check the TPS voltage tonight and see what I get. Yes, I installed a new ECT, one of the newer styles that requires replacing the cannon plug to use. I do have a new Pimp ready to install as part of my to do list on the car, but I honestly find it a little intimidating to tune. But maybe I just have to get over my apprehension and swap it out this week.
1988 Turbo Coupe, Black/Black, 5 Speed, Moonroof,  T3/T4, ported E6, 255LPH, Kirban, Stinger Exhaust, MGW shifter, K&N, Gillis valve, BP1.5, PIMPx, Koni's
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL, 390 6V, Big Solid cam, Headers,3.89's, 4 Speed, Vast and fast
1960 Ford Starliner, 292 Y Block, 312 4bbl intake, headers, 3 Speed, slow and low
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#5
Fan(s) always running with key on and PCM not outputting codes are both classic symptoms of a PCM issue, often an internal PCM failure.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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JT Offline
Posting Freak
#6
(09-20-2021, 06:27 PM)Jeff K Wrote: Fan(s) always running with key on and PCM not outputting codes are both classic symptoms of a PCM issue, often an internal PCM failure.

Agreed with Jeff and that would be what I'd suspect. Only hesitation with that conclusion is the Check Engine light coming on, which is controlled via the EEC and indicates some sort of function, as does the occasionally running (albeit rich) report. The tool apparently beeping is too generic to give a lot of weight on its own.

Any one of those stated issues could be non EEC failure related but adding them together directs more toward an EEC failure with some caution.
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Kuch Offline
Senior Member
#7
Thanks guys, I am also leaning towards a bad EEC and have started the process of installing my PIMPx. It's a little intimidating having to tune with a laptop as I am more of a simple mechanical man, but might as well just do it. I swapped out my stock injectors with my 60lb's last night as well as getting the vacuum line routed for the new EEC. Been reading through the install guide multiple times and pretty sure I have the jist of it and should have it all ready to go this weekend.
1988 Turbo Coupe, Black/Black, 5 Speed, Moonroof,  T3/T4, ported E6, 255LPH, Kirban, Stinger Exhaust, MGW shifter, K&N, Gillis valve, BP1.5, PIMPx, Koni's
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL, 390 6V, Big Solid cam, Headers,3.89's, 4 Speed, Vast and fast
1960 Ford Starliner, 292 Y Block, 312 4bbl intake, headers, 3 Speed, slow and low
Mikey97D likes this post
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spittinfire Online
Member
#8
Two questions....

What tool are you using to read it? I ask because I know there are different tools, some beep/flash and others have a read out that you can interact with more. I've had much better luck with the later.

How good are you at soldering? The old computers are really simple and unless it's totally burn the board they aren't hard to fix. I would pull it and take the cover off. Look for any leaking diodes or burnt circuits, they usually aren't hard to find. Diodes can simply be replaced by heating the solder and pulling them out, heating the solder again and inserting a new one.
If a circuit is burnt you can trace it to both ends where you will find the soldering points. You can solder in a small wire to complete the circuit and fix the problem.

If you send out your computer to be rebuilt, that is what they will do. It's not hard but it does take some time.
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BradM Offline
Member
#9
Kuch- For 60lb injectors, are you installing new fuel pump and regulator? I did my PiMPx in March, pretty easy. Are you keeping the IHI turbo, Ford boost solenoid and VAM? Stinger's base tune was a good starting point (for my setup) and they have a good forum (very responsive).
1965 Mercury Comet Caliente; 1968 Mercury Monterey; 1969 F100 Ranger; 1987 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
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Kuch Offline
Senior Member
#10
Brad, Already have a 255 pump installed and a Kirban regulator. The VAM will get tossed with the PIMP install, and I currently have a T3/T4 50 trim and a gillis valve for controlling boost. I have been on their forums already reading as much as I can about it along with a few other first hand install experiences.
1988 Turbo Coupe, Black/Black, 5 Speed, Moonroof,  T3/T4, ported E6, 255LPH, Kirban, Stinger Exhaust, MGW shifter, K&N, Gillis valve, BP1.5, PIMPx, Koni's
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL, 390 6V, Big Solid cam, Headers,3.89's, 4 Speed, Vast and fast
1960 Ford Starliner, 292 Y Block, 312 4bbl intake, headers, 3 Speed, slow and low
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