North American Turbocoupe Organization



Need help bad
MeAndMyT Offline
Senior Member
#1
Today i tryed starting my tc and the power would go on but it wouldnt kick over at all. I waited a few minutes wiggled the terminals on the battery around and it started. I tryed this again later today and it wouldnt start again. I bought new terminals cause my old ones had wire showing and moved easily. I thought that was the problem but it wasnt. I tested my battery and its pushing 12.5 volts i then tested the solonoid where the battery positive goes and that read 12.5 volts. But on the out part of the solonoid it was reading -0. I dunno if i need a new solonoid or maybe my starter ground isnt grounded (which i think is on the top right of the bellhousing). I also tryed hot wiring it after all this puting my old positive terminal to the out of the solonoid to the started and all that did was make a big spark. Any help would be greatly appreciated cause thsi is my DD and i definatly cant miss any more school. Thanks
88 TC 5 spd 22x,xxx miles Ran 15.3 in 1/4.. K&N Cone. Gillis boost controller @ 15. Faze Boost Gauge. A/C belt off. 2 1/2 inch exhaust dumped at axles.
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#2
Did you replace the terminals or the whole cables?

I had corroded cables and it wouldn't crank. Replaced the cables and no problem. You would have to measure voltage drop across terminals and wires to say for sure.

Turn the key on and put a screwdriver across the 2 big terminals on the solenoid. If you get nothing that rules out the solenoid. If it cranks using the screwdriver, then the relay may be faulty.
Pete Dunham


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Buck Choklit Offline
Member
#3
There's only a couple things that it could be. Ignition switch, solenoid, cables, starter. If your lights come on when you turn the key, it's most likely not the ignition switch. If you don't hear a click when you turn the key (assuming the ignition switch is good) then your solenoid is bad. Check both ends of the cables for corrosion and connection. If that all checks out, tap your starter with a hammer. If it starts after the tap of a hammer, pull your starter and take it to the nearest Advance Auto or what evers closest for a free starter test.
No
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Sluggo Offline
Posting Freak
#4
Yo battry is deed! At 12.5 volts you are quite a bit short on power. You should have closer to 14 volts.
Doug  
88 TC / T5,4.56,Log,SC60,NPR,2277,MegaSquirt
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MeAndMyT Offline
Senior Member
#5
i bought a new positive wire yesterday and that wasnt the problem, i knocked at my starter and tryed starting it at the same time and that wanst the problem either. I think i'm going with bad solenoid but i'm gonna wait till my dad gets home to read what u guys wrote.
88 TC 5 spd 22x,xxx miles Ran 15.3 in 1/4.. K&N Cone. Gillis boost controller @ 15. Faze Boost Gauge. A/C belt off. 2 1/2 inch exhaust dumped at axles.
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teal95 Offline
Senior Member
#6
The battery isn't dead. Without the alternator running 12.5 volts is fine. If the vehicle is running then the alternator pushes the voltage to ~14.5

How far are you from US 23/I96?

steve
'83 & '84 GT turbo EEC-Tuner
'85.5 & '86 SVO twEECer
2x '87 & '88 TC QuarterHorse
'93 LX 5.0 notch Moates chips
3x '95 & '96 GT
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#7
Base key off voltage of 12.5 V is fine, like Steve said, however, batt could still be bad (cant put out much current).

If you are using those "clamp on" batt terminal ends that clamp on to the existing cables, get rid of them.... they are total junk. Get new cables with terminal ends attached. I suggest replacing the both batt cables with new.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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Hurff Offline
Senior Member
#8
If the solenoid is dead, take heed, they seem to fail in one of two ways (yours may be the best)

Either completely dead, OR

Continuous cranking.

Thats right, the engine will continue to crank away no matter what you do with the key. I thought folks were (almost) making this up, until it happened to me.

If it is a solenoid, get a quality replacement, lest you have one weld shut on you, which leads to the dreaded it will not stop cranking till the batter is dead & the starter is too.....
1987 TC - RIP
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MeAndMyT Offline
Senior Member
#9
Quote:Originally posted by teal95:
The battery isn't dead. Without the alternator running 12.5 volts is fine. If the vehicle is running then the alternator pushes the voltage to ~14.5

How far are you from US 23/I96?

steve
Steve, i'm about 5 min away from 23/96.

And i bought brand new wire with the clamp attached to it (it also came with a ground but i dont think i'm supposed to use that)

And i just tryed what Pete said using the screwdriver and all i got was a big ass spark. And right now my dad just walked in with a new solonoid. Pete you confused me saying "that rules out the solenoid. Does that mean it is the solonoid or its something elsee?
88 TC 5 spd 22x,xxx miles Ran 15.3 in 1/4.. K&N Cone. Gillis boost controller @ 15. Faze Boost Gauge. A/C belt off. 2 1/2 inch exhaust dumped at axles.
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MeAndMyT Offline
Senior Member
#10
Ok i tryed the new solonoid and still no solution. If it were to be a relay where would it be? I'm also gonna take off my starter and bring it up to auto zone.
88 TC 5 spd 22x,xxx miles Ran 15.3 in 1/4.. K&N Cone. Gillis boost controller @ 15. Faze Boost Gauge. A/C belt off. 2 1/2 inch exhaust dumped at axles.
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