North American Turbocoupe Organization



NEED HELP...
POWERED BY PSI Offline
Senior Member
#1
Hey guys, i have checked everything on this car. i have spark, timing is decent, pulled codes and they said something about my knock sensor being disconnected [Image: biggrin.gif] also something about my TPS being off. is this a fuel problem? i still hear the fuel pump going(i think...that whining sound) and from what i see, things should start up fine, but dont. any suggestions? i am stuck and need help fast.
thanks
zach
85 Turbocoupe. 5-speed.
Mods- single 2.5 inch exaust with highflow cat and Apex bullit muffler, Saab 9000 front mount IC,Centerforce II clutch kit, Gillis BV set at 19psi,K&N on VAM, Hurst shorthrow shifter.
BEST ET-(1/8)-9.7 @71.9 mph
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#2
When you turn the key on, is it the fuel pump you hear (back of the car) or the brake booster pump (under the hood)? Does it shut off after a couple seconds? Both pumps may run for a couple seconds. The brake booster may run longer but after it's charged up it shouldn't run again until you use the brakes. The fuel pump will run briefly (2 to 5 seconds usually) until the system is up to pressure.

You can kind of getting an idea of fuel pressure by pressing the center of the shrader valve on the back of the fuel rail,
It looks just like a tire valve and it may have a black plastic cap on it. It sticke straight up off the fuel rail about 1" behind the back of the upper intake. Take the cap off, turn the key ON until the fuel pump stops, turn key OFF. Now, PROTECTING YOUR FACE AND EYES use a small screwdrive or similar object to press the center stem in the schrader valve. If you get a healthy squirt out of it, then you probably have enough fuel pressure to start the car. If it doesn't squirt or just dribbles, then you got a fuel pressure problem. Let us know

[This message has been edited by Pete D (edited 10-30-2002).]
Pete Dunham


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POWERED BY PSI Offline
Senior Member
#3
Pete, i pushed it down with a screw driver...and man was it pitiful!! fuel just barely streamed out....also, there is some kind of line that comes out of my wiring harness and goes onto/into the fuel pressure regulator. it is bone dry, and on that wire is ANOTHER valve like the shrader valve with a white polastic top on it. i took th at off, and did the same thing by pressing it down, and NOTHING came out...i think its a fuel problem!!! what was that line, and what do i need to do to get this fixed? the whining saound is coming from the gas tank....
let me know as soon as you can!! thanks for the help.
zach
85 Turbocoupe. 5-speed.
Mods- single 2.5 inch exaust with highflow cat and Apex bullit muffler, Saab 9000 front mount IC,Centerforce II clutch kit, Gillis BV set at 19psi,K&N on VAM, Hurst shorthrow shifter.
BEST ET-(1/8)-9.7 @71.9 mph
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#4
Zach,
Did you turn the key on until the pump stopped running before you pressed the schrader valve? The one behind the upper intake.

Are you positive we are talking the fuel pressure regulator, that sits on the fuel rail IN FRONT of the upper intake.(Go to the Tech Articles and click on the link for "Sensor and Device Locations") The only thing that goes to the FPR is a vacuum hose that comes off the front of the upper intake and it should be dry. There are no electrical type wires to the FPR and no schrader valve. Some aftermarket adjustable FPR have an adjustment valve on them to set the pressure and it might look kind of like a scrader at first. Does it have a hex nut at it's base? The stock FPR does not have any adjustment device. Can you post a picture of this thing?

if you have or can get a fuel prssure gauge that will screw onto the schrader valve, I can supply you with the step by step diagnostics for the fuel system so you can determine the problem and it's source.

------------------
NATO Member. it's not a vice, it's an obsession
"The nice thing about each new day is nobody ever used it before" Barnaby Jones
88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, mods list at
http://www.turbotbird.com/showroom/pd_88tc.htm
Pete Dunham


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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#5
Are your injectors ifring during crank? CHeck with a noid light. If they arent, check your TPS voltage. If the TPS voltage is over 4.5V with throttle closed (should be about .95V), the EEC will not fire the inj during crank, as it thinks you are trying to start a flooded motor. If TPS voltage is over 4.5V, either it is bad, installed incorrectly, or you have a wiring short.

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Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 20 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 00 Windstar (wifes vehicle)
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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