#11 |
Tearing a transmission apart and working with A/C are not the same. It takes a certain degree of special skills to work with air conditioning and its components.
I am very suspicious of oil leaking from the compressor, but you still have A/C. While Freon is a liquid at room temperature, when hot it becomes a gas, with pressure in the A/C lines capable of around 300 lbs. It seems unlikely you could be leaking oil and still have Freon in the system. The gas should leak out before the oil does.
It would be a good idea to check the junctions in the lines for the telltale grimy black residue typical of most oil leaks. Compressor oil often leaks out of the system at these points, where it attracts and combines with dirt. Finding these isn’t necessarily a red flag, as your system can still run fine for months (years) with these small leaks, but a lot of this stuff present would of course mean a more serious leak.
You will likely have difficulty finding the accumulator (also known as the receiver/dryer); I know of a replacement available from O’Reilly Auto Parts that with an additional fitting will work perfectly with the system—that’s what I used when I converted my system to less dangerous R-134a in early 2015. The orifice tube should still be available, and with the compressor and R-134a that should be all you would need.
Ah, the compressor. I cut open an HR-980 several years ago just to see what makes it “tickâ€, knowing it was not rebuildable—it was quite an undertaking. The only parts that can be replaced are within the “snout†of the thing, and are limited to a ceramic seal seat, a carbon spring-loaded seal and an o-ring. Special tools are required to replace them. I have searched and found a source for these items, through Auto Zone. DO NOT use the items that eBay and other sites offer, they are NOT the correct part numbers! The correct seal kit is the MT2036. Very little else can go wrong—the thing is almost bulletproof—but the internal compressor parts do eventually wear out, requiring a new HR980.
I have two spare HR980s with new seal kits that I replaced, flushed out and re-oiled with the proper grade of oil. I vacuumed them down to -30 inches Hg, sealed them up using special fittings I designed, and let them sit for a week or more. Satisfied that there were no leaks I boxed them up and have them ready as spares. In the heat we have here in Phoenix (summer temps of 120 are not uncommon) good A/C is a necessity.
I am not professionally trained as an A/C technician, but learned what I know from Internet and book study, observation, research and through many conversations with practicing A/C techs over the years.
I would be MOST curious to see what parts this mechanic is using for your system, if for no other reason than to expand both my knowledge and anyone else’s who is curious. Unfortunately many mechanics are only interested in getting you out the door as quickly as possible and don’t take the time necessary to properly research and obtain the correct parts, instead rigging up something that “should†work. Freon is an unforgiving gas and will leak out as soon as the opportunity presents itself, and there you are with an additional cost.
I am very suspicious of oil leaking from the compressor, but you still have A/C. While Freon is a liquid at room temperature, when hot it becomes a gas, with pressure in the A/C lines capable of around 300 lbs. It seems unlikely you could be leaking oil and still have Freon in the system. The gas should leak out before the oil does.
It would be a good idea to check the junctions in the lines for the telltale grimy black residue typical of most oil leaks. Compressor oil often leaks out of the system at these points, where it attracts and combines with dirt. Finding these isn’t necessarily a red flag, as your system can still run fine for months (years) with these small leaks, but a lot of this stuff present would of course mean a more serious leak.
You will likely have difficulty finding the accumulator (also known as the receiver/dryer); I know of a replacement available from O’Reilly Auto Parts that with an additional fitting will work perfectly with the system—that’s what I used when I converted my system to less dangerous R-134a in early 2015. The orifice tube should still be available, and with the compressor and R-134a that should be all you would need.
Ah, the compressor. I cut open an HR-980 several years ago just to see what makes it “tickâ€, knowing it was not rebuildable—it was quite an undertaking. The only parts that can be replaced are within the “snout†of the thing, and are limited to a ceramic seal seat, a carbon spring-loaded seal and an o-ring. Special tools are required to replace them. I have searched and found a source for these items, through Auto Zone. DO NOT use the items that eBay and other sites offer, they are NOT the correct part numbers! The correct seal kit is the MT2036. Very little else can go wrong—the thing is almost bulletproof—but the internal compressor parts do eventually wear out, requiring a new HR980.
I have two spare HR980s with new seal kits that I replaced, flushed out and re-oiled with the proper grade of oil. I vacuumed them down to -30 inches Hg, sealed them up using special fittings I designed, and let them sit for a week or more. Satisfied that there were no leaks I boxed them up and have them ready as spares. In the heat we have here in Phoenix (summer temps of 120 are not uncommon) good A/C is a necessity.
I am not professionally trained as an A/C technician, but learned what I know from Internet and book study, observation, research and through many conversations with practicing A/C techs over the years.
I would be MOST curious to see what parts this mechanic is using for your system, if for no other reason than to expand both my knowledge and anyone else’s who is curious. Unfortunately many mechanics are only interested in getting you out the door as quickly as possible and don’t take the time necessary to properly research and obtain the correct parts, instead rigging up something that “should†work. Freon is an unforgiving gas and will leak out as soon as the opportunity presents itself, and there you are with an additional cost.
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1987 Turbo Coupe w/T5OD, 8.8 axle, grey smoke; most options. Got it in 1991 with 41K miles: 3 turbos, 2 heater cores, 3 T5OD full rebuilds, 6 clutches, 1 head gasket, 2 Teves II ABS units, etc. later....
1987 Turbo Coupe w/T5OD, 8.8 axle, grey smoke; most options. Got it in 1991 with 41K miles: 3 turbos, 2 heater cores, 3 T5OD full rebuilds, 6 clutches, 1 head gasket, 2 Teves II ABS units, etc. later....