My Pre-Carlisle Check List

So I've gone kind of crazy lately and I've been working on my tbird a bunch. Here's a list of things I'm planning on doing before Carlisle and over the summer to car.

Completed:
Replace and bleed clutch master and slave cylinders.

In progress:
Replace pedal assembly, heater core, blower motor, resistor pack, evaporator core, and dash. So far, I have the car on jackstands. I've pulled the driver's seat as well as the steering column. I've also pulled the dash trim. Planning on removing the center console and dash tomorrow. I have all the parts except the heater core and one hose to the heater core.

To be done before carlisle:
Replace front pads and rotors. Fix small coolant leak. Already diagnosed. Replacing upper and lower radiator hoses, thermostat, thermostat housing and coolant. Diagnose and repair inopt oil pressure gauge. Drain and refill transmission fluid. To those of you who have done this the hard way...I have a suction gun on order.

To be done over the summer:
Replace front bumper cover. Oil change and replace leaking low pressure sensor.

Feel free to comment and I look forward to seeing you all at Carlisle.

Sounds like you are off to a good start. The suction gun is the way to go!! a lot easier than removing the shifter. Check your rear caliper pins to make sure they are not seized up, and that the drive shaft bolts are good and tight.

Heater core - the Ford unit is generally agreed to be the best but I think it is obsolete from the dealers. Maybe someone will chime in with advice, Also see Jeff K's advice on brazing up around one of the inlet or outlet tubes for improved durability of the core. Read this one: http://natomessageboard.com/ubbthreads.p...Post181903

Also, if you haven't seen it already, may be worth a read. http://turbotbird.com/techinfo/Heater_Co...cement.htm

NAPA used to see a couple of "cut to fit" heater hoses that could be used to replace every heater hose on the car except the long thinner one under the intake. If they have never been done, this would be a good time to do them. More info and P/Ns here:
http://natomessageboard.com/ubbthreads.p...Post224527

Personally. I use a drill motor pump to put fluid in the trans through the upper plug hole on the passenger side. Makes it really quick

Figured I'd update everyone on where I am project wise. Turned out to be way more of undertaking then I planned. Honestly, not sure if I'm gonna have it back together in time for Carlisle this year .

I have the heater box all back together. I separated the whole thing and replaced the heater core, the evap core, the blower motor, the resistor pack, and resealed everything with RTV.

For those curious, the heater core is still available from ford. I think the part number changed. I can post it for those who want it.

I hit several bottle necks along the way. The worst was the heater control switch pigtail. It was completely melted, I had to go the scrap yard (that's only open when they feel like it) and cut new connector out. And I got to wire it in twice, because I used the wrong size heat shrink the first time.

I also completely, destroyed the ac line that holds the dryer as it was really jammed on their and gunked up because the PO didn't put the cover over the quick connect back on. I have a new dryer waiting at the parts store, I guess I'll be converting to R134a now.

I have the new pedals in, but for whatever reason one of the studs is covered by the clutch position sensor so I can't really put the nut back on (I am tempted to pull the sensor to install the nut but it seems kind of pointless as there's like 8 nuts still holding on the pedal assembly). Also, as a side note the pads for the brake and clutch pedal are still available from ford.

I've changed the upper and lower radiator hoses, and the heater core hoses. All the other heater hoses I had changed a few years ago. The cut to fit hose is made by gates. I ordered mine through carquest. Gates also makes one that doesn't need to be cut but it costs more and nobody can remember the part number.

I'm working on changing the brakes. To anyone who's curious, the axle nut takes a 1 1/8th inch socket. I forgot to order new seals for the bearings so I'm going to get some today.

The old dash is out. And I'm working on getting the new one in. The new one came from an atc car so I'm going to need to switch the duck work.