North American Turbocoupe Organization



My next series of questions!
Noname
Guest
#1
lol.. okay.

My front-right side tire is making odd clicking/bumping sounds when I stop and start to release the brake. Would this be brake related?

I still haven't gotten around to replacing my ball joints. I recently bought a Haynes manual which says the entire control arm must be replaced when the ball joints are worn. Is this true? And if so, how much are the entire control arms?

Also, what tools would I need for this job? Would I need something to compress the suspension coils? From a glace it looks like the suspension is holding the joints under pressure... Am I right?

My engine overheats a LOT. Not to the point of stalling or anything, but the temperature gauge is almost always on the red mark after I drive around for a little while. It hasn't been too bad lately because it started to cool down here (Woodstock, GA) but it still likes to get hot.

I've replaced the upper radiator hose (rad. to thermo.), changed the thermostat, I plan on flushing the radiator today but I really don't think it needs it... The fluid is also in the right mark when it is hot/cold. I don't currently have any detonation problems that I know of. If I do, I'm definatley not hearing it. I'll find out today when I change the plugs, hopefully I don't.

Lastly, I plan on doing the plugs and checking the plug wires today. Not that it has anything to do with the overheating (well, maybe lol) but I am doing this before I redo the timing.

Also upcoming today: PCV valve, transmission filter, new fluid, better oil filter (garbage FRAM filter), and some Mobil.

What store bought transmission fluid do you reccommend? Oil filter? Trans. filter? Plugs? I've seen a lot of vouching for the Autolite plugs but also the Bosch.

I can't think of much more I can do to tune this car up. Is there anything I'm missing here? It cranks right up literally at the turn of the key, idles great, runs great. Overheats like hell.

Also, I saw a tech article somewhere about changing the auto transmission fluid/filter and can't seem to find it. Maybe I saw it elsewhere, but if anyone knows where this would be I would greatly appreciate it (like I appreciate all of the help I get here [Image: smile.gif])

Ryan
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88silver-bullet Offline
Member
#2
1. could be anything in the suspension, control arm bushing,swaybar bushing,end links, ect...check out PST site in the vendors they have really good deals on front end kits
2.if im not mistaken the lower control arm is obsolete, you can buy the balljoints separetly and have them pressed (few of the people on this board has had it done)
3. overheating caN BE CAUSED BY ingnition timing, running lean, bad water pump ,fans not kicking on ect... are you fans kicking on? does it overheat just in town driving?
4. buy motor craft ignition parts it may cost a little more upfront but may save you a lot of trouble down the road, these cars are touchy .
88 silver t.c100,000 just did an engine and t5 swap
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BoostedBirdie Offline
Member
#3
Most of your questions can be answered by using the search feature. It seemingly always produces a wealth of knowledge, and sometimes you can even find quarters and old gummy bears....

First Question: http://natomessageboard.com/Forum1/HTML/008586.html

Second: http://natomessageboard.com/Forum1/HTML/000441.html

Third: http://natomessageboard.com/Forum1/HTML/004977.html

These may not be exact answers, just examples of the search function.

Filters: Most use Fram. I like em.
Fluids: Mobil 1 Synthetic seems to be a favorite.
ATF: I've heard the best use in the Ford autos is the Ford ATF. Not too sure though...

Plugs: Autolites work great, cheap too. You'll want to use the 764s, or you can read the debates and make you own decision.
Here is one: http://natomessageboard.com/Forum1/HTML/000552.html
Wires, cap, rotor: Use only Motorcraft.

Changing the trans fluid and filter....
It is messy, let the car cool down, or risk getting burned by the fluid...
Raise the car using jackstands and secure it. Slide under the car with a LARGE pan, and loosen the bolts holding the trans pan, loosen them at first, don't take them out. Alot of fluid will come out, tilt the pan back and forth to get as much out before you drop it, this will reduce spillage. Once you have it down, empty the rest into your catch pan. Clean the pan out, and remove all the gasket material. Some pans come with magnets in them, some don't. If your's has one, clean it off with a rag, and place it back where it was in the pan. If there is some metal filings it is normal, alot indicates more wear. Remove the filter, allow the trans to drip fluid out until it slows/stops. Replace the filter and place the new gasket on the pan, I sometimes use a dab of weatherstrip adhesive to keep it from sliding, and bolt it back up. Tighten the bolts from side to side and front to back in incraments, don't torque one all the way down, then move to the next. Do them in steps. Fill the car with ATF....I am not sure how many quarts the Auto takes in the TCs, you'll have to look it up....hope this helps...oh, and start looking for parts for the 5SPD swap....look in the FAQs and do a search function....the autos are junk.

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-Andrew
1988 TC 88k orignial miles, 5 Spd, mostly stock, K&N, B&M Ripper, 190LPH Walboro, Aeromotive Adjustable FPR with gauge, exhaust soon. Looks a little rough, but thanks to this board, runs great.
1956 Thundebird FOR SALE Unrestored, unmolested beauty! 48,000 ORIGINAL miles. See Ad in "For Sale" section.

"God has a hard on for Marines, because we kill everything we see. He plays His games, we play ours. To show our appreciation for so much power, we keep heaven packed with fresh souls. God was here before the Marine Corps, so you can give your heart to Jesus, but your ass belongs to the corps." R. Lee Ermey in "Full Metal Jacket"

[This message has been edited by BoostedBirdie (edited 09-22-2004).]

[This message has been edited by BoostedBirdie (edited 09-22-2004).]
-Andrew
--Proud NATO member--
1988 TC 88k orignial miles, 5 Spd, mostly stock, K&N, B&M Ripper, 190LPH Walboro, Aeromotive adjustable FPR with gauge, exhaust coming soon. Looks a bit rough, but thanks to this board, runs great.

"The soldier, above all other people, prays for peace, for he must suffer and bear the deepest wounds and scars of war."
"No man is entitled to the blessings of freedom unless he be vigilant in its preservation." -- General Douglas MacArthur
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Walsted Offline
Posting Freak
#4
Brakes - The noise could be something as simple as missing a pin for the brake pads. Been there, done that.

Oil filter - There was a post either here or TF linking to a site where a guy cut open a lot of oil filters. After reading that site, I will only use Purolator (which also makes Motorcraft filters) or Wix (which also makes Napa filters).

Hope this helps.

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Mike Walsted - NATO member
1986 5-speed TurboCoupe and 1985 5-speed XR7
Mike Walsted - Sold my 1986 5-speed TurboCoupe
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#5
Trans fluid = Dexron II or III

As somebody mentioned, there are a lot of things that can cause the engine to run hot.
Since the sending units and or gauges can be off - either way, you really need to determine if the engine is actually getting overly hot as a first step, then find out why. Do this by safely removing the radiator cap, preferably when th eengine is cool. Get a cooking thermometer that goes to at least 225*F. Use it to measure coolant temps in the radiator as you run the engine to warm it up.

Be sure to note what temp the system is at when the fan kicks on. On the 87-88 the passenger side fan should come at and 200*F and go off at 190*F. On the 86 and earlier cars I think the fan is suppose to come on at around 220*F. These numbers could vary a little as the sensor that tells the EEC to
turn on the fan is on the engine, not in the radiator.

Find out what your system is doing and let us know. Then we can explore the possibilities. You need to find out about this because if it's really getting hot it might lead to a blown head gasket or a cracked head.

While you have the spark plugs out do a compression test. There is a How To article in the Technical Articles. Let us know the results
Pete Dunham


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Noname
Guest
#6
Thanks alot. I'll do this today after work and let you all know whats up. How much would one of those thermometers run me?

Ryan
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#7
I don't know what a regular candy thermometer or reg cooking thermometer would cost. I used to just sneek my wife's out when I needed to. She recently bought me a cooking digital one on closeout for like $3-4. These normally go for $15-20
Pete Dunham


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tps87turbo Offline
Posting Freak
#8
Quote:Originally posted by Pete D:
I don't know what a regular candy thermometer or reg cooking thermometer would cost. I used to just sneek my wife's out when I needed to. She recently bought me a cooking digital one on closeout for like $3-4. These normally go for $15-20


The kind that checks the temp of a Steak or Roast? Wow.. what another use for that POS my wife bought that never really worked. She spent the $20 instead of the $5.

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Tony Sceia
Red 88 TC, Med Red with Raven Leather & every option, Walbro 255, 3" SS Downpipe with Magnaflow Dual SS 2.5 Cat Back system, 3-core Radiator, Star Stage 3 Clutch, Rebuilt T-5 Tranny, 4:10 rear, 140 MPH Speedo, New Paint, Headlights, Refinished Snowflakes & New Tires.

She looks so SWEET. Now I need to make some more HP & make the engine look good.

87 Turbocoupe - Bought as a Parts Car, but runs & needs a little work. Looks like we will have HIS & HERS TC's.

[This message has been edited by tps87turbo (edited 09-22-2004).]
Tony Sceia -

HIS Red 88 TC
http://turbotbird.com/showroom/data_r-z/...a_88tc.php
HERS - Blue 87 TC, fully loaded with every option, Work in Progress
87 Gray TC Parts Car - Gave to BJL and is now his daily driver
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#9
Quote: Wow.. what another use for that POS my wife bought that never really worked. She spent the $20 instead of the $5.

Having it and using it (right) are two different things. My wife is an excellent cook but every once in awhile she uses the smoke detector as the cooking timer [Image: biggrin.gif] She git the digital for $5.00 because it was a closeout sale
Pete Dunham


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Noname
Guest
#10
AutoZone gave me the wrong PCV valve and transmission filter/gasket today. I literally sat there and watched them type in the right model and everything so I know it was of no fault of thier own, but now I'm going to be late for work tomorrow because I've got to get a ride to NAPA or something to get the right stuff. Would a Ford dealer happen to have these? If so, part numbers would be greatly appreciated as I would really like to have a Motorcraft PCV instead of an aftermarket one.

-Ryan
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