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Funny story for you guys about my experience this past weekend. This wasnt my TC, which has been running perfectly, but happened when doing some exhaust work on my 86 Tbird 5.0.
Here goes..... Cats in my old H pipe on my 86 Tbird 5.0 were bad... rattling around, etc., so I got a nice, shiney new Catco H pipe to replace it. Easy hour or 2 job, right? WRONG.
Jack up rear end of car, position jack stands under axle (apparently not exactly under axle....), and lower floor jack.
Put floor jack under K member, begin to jack up front end nice and high so I can put jack stands under the front end.
While jacking up front, rear axle slips off jack stands, rear of car drops to ground. Pass side jack stand grabs brake line to pass side wheel cylinder as car falls, and rips brake line in half. Brake fluid drains on floor. I am not happy.
Need new 18" long brake line. Go to parts store. Buy 20" pre-flared brake line. Go home.
Remove broken brake line. Fitting on new line fits prefectly in wheel cylinder.
Fitting on new line does not fit junction block on axle.
Remove new line, cut 1" off end. Get flaring tools and double flare attachments out of tool box.
Cant remember how double flare attachments work.
Try it the way I think it works. Guess I didnt remember right.
Cut another 1" off new line. Finially remember the right way to double flare. Actually remember to put old, correct thread fitting on line before doing the double flare. I am pleased with myself!
Put in new brake line. Get ready to bleed rear brakes.
Break bleeder screw off pass side wheel cyl.
Remove wheel cyl, take it into house. Drill out bleeder, insert Easy-out, and twist. Break off easy out in wheel cyl.
Back to parts store for new wheel cyl.
Install new wheel cyl, bleed pass side. Then go to driver side to bleed it.
Break off bleeder screw in driver side wheel cyl. Decide to bypass the "drill it out, break off easy out" process on this one.
Back to parts store for another wheel cyl for driver side.
Put in new wheel cyl on driver side.
Bleed driver side, and re-bleed pass side "just to be sure".
Three hours after starting to jack up the car, I was now ready to replace the H pipe.
Believe it or not, H pipe install actually came off without any major problems!!!!
------------------
Jeff Korn
88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 21 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 02 Taurus Vulcan(wifes car)
Here goes..... Cats in my old H pipe on my 86 Tbird 5.0 were bad... rattling around, etc., so I got a nice, shiney new Catco H pipe to replace it. Easy hour or 2 job, right? WRONG.
Jack up rear end of car, position jack stands under axle (apparently not exactly under axle....), and lower floor jack.
Put floor jack under K member, begin to jack up front end nice and high so I can put jack stands under the front end.
While jacking up front, rear axle slips off jack stands, rear of car drops to ground. Pass side jack stand grabs brake line to pass side wheel cylinder as car falls, and rips brake line in half. Brake fluid drains on floor. I am not happy.
Need new 18" long brake line. Go to parts store. Buy 20" pre-flared brake line. Go home.
Remove broken brake line. Fitting on new line fits prefectly in wheel cylinder.
Fitting on new line does not fit junction block on axle.
Remove new line, cut 1" off end. Get flaring tools and double flare attachments out of tool box.
Cant remember how double flare attachments work.
Try it the way I think it works. Guess I didnt remember right.
Cut another 1" off new line. Finially remember the right way to double flare. Actually remember to put old, correct thread fitting on line before doing the double flare. I am pleased with myself!
Put in new brake line. Get ready to bleed rear brakes.
Break bleeder screw off pass side wheel cyl.
Remove wheel cyl, take it into house. Drill out bleeder, insert Easy-out, and twist. Break off easy out in wheel cyl.
Back to parts store for new wheel cyl.
Install new wheel cyl, bleed pass side. Then go to driver side to bleed it.
Break off bleeder screw in driver side wheel cyl. Decide to bypass the "drill it out, break off easy out" process on this one.
Back to parts store for another wheel cyl for driver side.
Put in new wheel cyl on driver side.
Bleed driver side, and re-bleed pass side "just to be sure".
Three hours after starting to jack up the car, I was now ready to replace the H pipe.
Believe it or not, H pipe install actually came off without any major problems!!!!
------------------
Jeff Korn
88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 21 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 02 Taurus Vulcan(wifes car)
Jeff Korn
88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized