Alaskanzeus
Joined:
May 2002
Anchorage, AK USA
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Little Long!
Now that I have the car running good, im going to get the muffler worked on Thursday, have a few opitions on who to have the work done, but need to know a few things first.
1. Where and how is the downpipe connected? Is there any hardware needed to do the job?
2. Went to buy a cat and I was quoted 200 for an oem replacement. Where besides ATR can I find a good one?
3. Have had problems with my heat shield rattling when it warms up. A few years ago a guy had it welded, but its rattling like crazy again. Suggestions on how to fix this problem.
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Pete D
Joined:
Apr 2001
Northern OH
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1. The DP bolts to the 90*elbow that is bolted to the turbocharger turbine housing.
It is a ball and flange arrangement. The flange slides up on 2 studs in the elbow and then nuts hold it in place.
2. Catco brand, Summit Racing 800-230-3030
about $60-70
3. The new cat doesn't come with a heat shield. No Problem.
Pete Dunham
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Alaskanzeus
Joined:
May 2002
Anchorage, AK USA
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No one in Alaska can mandarally bend pipe [Image: frown.gif] They can however do a 3 inch crush bent. How big of a difference in performance would I see. I know it wont look at pretty but I dont feel comfortable putting ATR stainless on here in Alaska the differences in subfreezing temps, potholes (sometimes enough to bottom out SUV's), and snow brims might just put enough stress on it to crack.
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Pete D
Joined:
Apr 2001
Northern OH
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The 3" crush will be fine. What mods have you done. It would have to be a lot to ouflow a 3" single, assuming you also do the DP and Cat.
Pete Dunham
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if you had acess to a welder, you could buy pre-bent U shaped madrel bent pieces and build your exhaust your self. Time consuming but worth it IMO(just finished sunday building 3inch turbo back).
1987 F-150 - tubbed and will never get finished
1978 F-150 - Lifted, green, slow
2002 F-150 - Lifted Screw FX4 -186.04 rwhpowa:angry:
1955 F-100 - Untouched
1986 Turbo Coupe - 466 BB with NX, 4 speed toploader
1988 Turbo Coupe - 5spd with a few mods
1993 Supra - Not mine, but I drive it!
Admin at DETI Racing
[Image: chap-02.gif]
AIM:FATHERFORD
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GaryS#2
Joined:
May 2001
B.C. Canada
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Yah, I would go for the 3" mandrel pieces and pay the shop for the welding.
Same time frame as crush bending if you precut everthing for him.
Order a couple 45* deg mandrel bends and you can make your own DP.
He still has to cut your flange off the other DP and start with 2" of that.
Grocery Getter/Rice Cooker.
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Alaskanzeus
Joined:
May 2002
Anchorage, AK USA
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Put it up on the racks and saw that the tail pipe was replaced once before with a 2" mild steel and was rusting. There was also a large hole and dents in the pipe from someone not knowing how to operate the bender, along with reused and broken braces. The rest of the pipe was stock besides the resonators and looked great. Cat looked good, banged on it nothing loose, havent smelled it since i fixed the system running lean, but its not stock so obviously replaced before. We just welded the heat shield right this time so it doesnt rattle. We just replaced the tailpipe using some 2.5" aluminized pipe, very few bends with plenty of clearance, got them up there nice and sounds great and runs much better. I couldnt go 3" inch down/cat because after plenty of research, Alaska law states that the CAT and all the pipes before it must be stock in order to pass IM. So much for that! Anyway its running good, now i have a coming somewhere by the Oil filter might just be loose.
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