motor to tranny....

im putting the motor out of my wrecked thunderbird into my other one... and I have done this a couple but I also have a little bit of problems getting the tranny and motor lined up.. the car is a 5-speed... the problem is the getting the input shaft into the clutch and the engine... has anyone got any tips to make it a little easier????
just wonderin.

thanks... Joey

Cut the front yoke off a driveshaft and use that to turn the output shaft so that the input shaft turns and meshes through the spline teeth in the clutch plate.

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NATO Member
88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, Main TC with K&N, 3"DP to 2.5"duals through Dynamax, Ric valve at 17+ and disconnected KS. Elite Bodega 16" chrome wheels. Autometer pod w/ A/F and Vac/boost gauges.140 mph Motorsports Speedo New engine: Total Seal rings and TRW pistons, ported and polished head w/ cc'd chambers,1.59"exhausts, SS valves, gutted upper, knife edged lower, A-230 cam, Race Engineering Adj Cam Sprocket, Crowlers, ARP head studs, and rod bolts. Walbro 255 HP pump and Kirban adj FPR, T-3. Centerforce II, KB subs and jack rails.

An clutch alienment tool!

Sometimes it helps to get the trany bolted up and close (the bolts pulled up until about a half inch from tight) and have someone slowly push the clutch pedal in as you work the tranny up to the motor. A clutch alignment tool can help, but sometimes it dosn't quite line up the clutch disk.

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1988 tc-
3" atr downpipe
2.5" atr duals
k&n cone
all else stock..
for now

A broom handle can be used as a clutch alignment tool. Do not use the trans to bell housing bolts to force the tranny up to the bell housing. It OK to use the bolts to hold the tranny in place once you get close but don't use them to close the gap until you are sure the splines on input shaft are through the clutch disk.

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NATO Member
88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, Main TC with K&N, 3"DP to 2.5"duals through Dynamax, Ric valve at 17+ and disconnected KS. Elite Bodega 16" chrome wheels. Autometer pod w/ A/F and Vac/boost gauges.140 mph Motorsports Speedo New engine: Total Seal rings and TRW pistons, ported and polished head w/ cc'd chambers,1.59"exhausts, SS valves, gutted upper, knife edged lower, A-230 cam, Race Engineering Adj Cam Sprocket, Crowlers, ARP head studs, and rod bolts. Walbro 255 HP pump and Kirban adj FPR, T-3. Centerforce II, KB subs and jack rails.

sorry, I left out info -- yes DO NOT tighten the bolts up agaist the bell housing. I meant only for them to be holding the tranny in place. They should be within .75' -.5' when the input shaft is lined up in the splines of the clutch disk. The tricky part seems to be getting the tip of the input shaft into the pilot bearing (close tolerances). if you have the clutch disk on the input shaft and release the pressure plate's hold, then you can line up the pilot bearing and push the tranny up into place where it can be bolted up tight. I am not as experienced at giving advice as Pete D. is [Image: smile.gif]

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1988 tc-
3" atr downpipe
2.5" atr duals
k&n cone
all else stock..
for now