North American Turbocoupe Organization



motor rebuild ?'s
mcrorcer22 Offline
Junior Member
#1
ok my tc hasnt been runnin right since i broke a rocke arm, like its only runnin on three cylinders, plus my timing was way off after puttin it together so i think i burt a valve. i was readin that in order to get the lower intake off you gotta pull the motor, so while is out i was gonna do a rebuild, bearings, rings, all that good stuff. maybe a cam and some other performance stuuf.

Ok so my question is i have $400 to do the rebuild, what parts would u recomend? was thinkin of mybe puttin a small shot of mitrous, like 75 shot. what would be my best bet?
i also have a friend that is sellin a MSD 6A ingintion box, is this good for the tc? would it be worth 40 bucks?

[This message has been edited by mcrorcer22 (edited 01-26-2005).]
88 grey TC front springs heated to lower 2" Rear 1"
soon to buy, boost controller, 17"cobra r's, new paint
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#2
It sounds like you are not too sure what the problem is. Have you checked for worn cam lobe(s)? Or checked for a bent valve?

You should probably have a compression and leak down test done. This will give you some idea of the internal health of the engine. Your budget is kind of tight for a rebuild so find out if you even need one first.

[This message has been edited by Pete D (edited 01-26-2005).]
Pete Dunham


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Ryan H Offline
Posting Freak
#3
You don't have to pull the motor to take the lower intake out either.

------------------
Ryan Harris

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mcrorcer22 Offline
Junior Member
#4
i did the compression test today, #1 cyl held 145 psi #2 held 130 psi #3 made nothing, and #4made very little then leaked down immidiatly
pulled valve cover and cranked motor over, everything on top of the head is okay, and it made no noises. could i have burt two valves for the timing being a tooth off driving it for a couple hours?

[This message has been edited by mcrorcer22 (edited 01-27-2005).]
88 grey TC front springs heated to lower 2" Rear 1"
soon to buy, boost controller, 17"cobra r's, new paint
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tps87turbo Offline
Posting Freak
#5
Quote:Originally posted by mcrorcer22:
i did the compression test today, #1 cyl held 145 psi #2 held 130 psi #3 made nothing, and #4made very little then leaked down immidiatly

What type of Compression tester do you have? Is it the type that screws into the spark plug or the kind that you hold in place by hand. The 1st 2 cylinders have good numbers, so I would warm the car up again & try the # 3 & 4 to get a reading. Could the pressure release button on the tester been stuck open, which would not give you an accurate reading. I ususally squirt some WD40 on them as they have been known to stick. The screw type testers are the best & only ones I would reccomend.

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Tony Sceia -

HIS - Red 88 TC, Med Red with Raven Leather & every option, Walbro 255, 3" SS Downpipe with Magnaflow Dual SS 2.5 Cat Back system, 3-core Radiator, Star Stage 3 Clutch, Rebuilt T-5 Tranny, 4:10 rear, 140 MPH Speedo, New Paint, Headlights, Refinished Snowflakes & New Tires.

HERS - Blue 87 TC, fully loaded with every option, Gilies Valve, K & N Filter, 3-core Radiator...just needs a little body work & a new paint job.

87 TC - Bought as a Parts Car, & will remain a parts car now that I found the blue one.
Tony Sceia -

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http://turbotbird.com/showroom/data_r-z/...a_88tc.php
HERS - Blue 87 TC, fully loaded with every option, Work in Progress
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#6
I agree with Tony. If you didn't use a screw in type compression tester, it's almost impossible to get valid readings, especially on cylinders 3 & 4. There is also a certain procedure to follow and it's available here: http://www.turbotbird.com/techinfo/Compr...n_Test.htm

Timing being off a tooth probably would not burn valves. And it is very easy to check the cam timing: http://www.turbotbird.com/techinfo/CamTi...Timing.htm
You said the timing was off, which timing - cam timing or ignition timing? How much? If it was cam timing, then it would be advisable to put a new belt on it, get it set correctly, then reset ignition timing and then redo the compression test.

The other thing I'm suspecting is that the head gasket blew between #3 and #4.

You don't have to pull the engine to remove the lower intake. You don't have to remove the head to pull the lower intake either. But if you do have to pull the head for some reason, it is much easier to remove the lower intake once the head is on the bench.
Pete Dunham


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mcrorcer22 Offline
Junior Member
#7
i am using the type that screws in, and i know that the pressure relief valve wasnt sticking, cause its brand new.
after redoing the compression, test, with the same result i pulled the head and found that the gasket blew through in between the no3 and 4 cylinders
88 grey TC front springs heated to lower 2" Rear 1"
soon to buy, boost controller, 17"cobra r's, new paint
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