Motor Mounts?

Coming home from a road trip today and the motor started twisting real bad accelerating. Bad enough that the shifter is breaking the plastic trim on the center console. I haven't had time to get under and look, but I assume its a broken driver side motor mount.

How tough are motor mounts to change? Does the motor have to come out to do it?

Assuming your sig is correct and the engine bay is all stock items, you can certainly remove the motor mounts with the engine in the car. If the bolts don't give you too much trouble, you should be able to pull it off in 2-3hrs max, in the driveway- less if on a lift.

If you plan to build for performance, and don't mind a little additional vibration, then I recommend a set of Chuck W's motor mounts, which can be obtained via his website at turbochuck.com.

Here's a quick rundown (assuming basic mechanical skills, safe practice, a level workplace, and some common sense):

Tools Needed:

- Floor Jack
- Jack Stands (2)
- 13mm Wrench
- 18mm Wrench
- Ratchet
- 13mm Socket
- 18mm Socket
- Short Extension ~4" (just in case)
- Long Extension ~12"
- Swivel Socket Adapter (MUST HAVE!)

Basic Procedure:

-Jack up the front of the car & put stands under the spring cup in the control arm on both sides.

-Put an appropriate sized block of wood on a floor jack & slowly jack under the oil pan to just barely apply some lift to relieve the tension on the mount bolts.

- To remove the driver-side mount, begin by using the 18m socket/swivel adpter/long extension to remove the nut holding the upper&lower portions of the mount together. It's down past the distributer between the oil filter and the power steering pump. Then use the 13mm socket to remove the bolt holding the lower mount braket to the k-member. Next use the 13mm socket/swivel adapter/long extension to remove the forward bolt on the upper portion of the mount. It's just behind the power steering bracket, slightly wedged in by the stock mount bushing. The last two bolts on this mount are easy, just reach up between the k-member and the tubular k-member brace to find them just forward of the oil filter. You'll only need the 13mm socket for these. Carefully remove all parts/pieces, and reinstall new bracket in reverse order, unless otherwise specified by new motor mount mfg instructions.

- To remove the passenger-side mount, begin by using the 18mm wrech to remove the top-nut holding the upper&lower portions of the mount together. Then use the 13mm socket/short extension to remove bolt holding the lower portion of the mount to the k-member. Next use the 13mm socket/swivel adapter to remove the forward bolt on the upper mount. The last two bolts on this side are more "fun". The easiest approach is from back by the starter, reaching up under the turbo. You might be able to get your 13mm socket in here, but if not, use the 13mm wrench to pull these last 2 bolts. They'll be just forward of the stock lower coolant line to the turbo. Reassemble this side in reverse order, or per motor mount mfg instructions.

Take your time, and don't get too frustrated if the bolts don't want to budge, mine took some kind words to persuade them!

-Nate

+1 on Chucks Mounts. I have a set of the softer ones. Yes, there is more vibration in the cabin than with the stock mounts, but it's still not bad. He offers them in 2 different hardnesses. Plus they look great!

http://i798.photobucket.com/albums/yy270...G_1137.jpg

http://i798.photobucket.com/albums/yy270...G_1136.jpg

If you are just needing to change out the isolators, it's pretty easy since you can leave the top bracket bolted to the motor and just remove the nut at the top of the isolator and the K-member through bolt, jack up the motor for clearance and remove the lower mount.

Once out changing the isolators is just two bolts, but the smaller drivers side isolator is not available. I used two of the larger hydraulic mounts which requires the lower bracket for the drivers mount to have a hole drilled.

You will see when you get the lower mounts off that the passenger side has the mounting holes on each side of the center and line up with the new isolator. The drivers side has both bolts to one side. You will need to position the new isolator on the lower mount and determine where the hole needs to be drilled... keep in mint the top stud needs to be centered where the original one was.

If I remember, I was able to use one existing hole and only needed to drill the opposite side. May need to elongate the hole a little, but not too difficult.

I got the mounts at autozone (around $33) and the part # are posted under parts.

Thanks for the replies! I did some investigating last night and it looks like the motor mounts are ok. It appears the bolts between the bellhousing and transmission are missing!?! I'll post more when I get a better look.

That would cause the shifter to move... If I recall there should be six bolts, the top ones on each side go in from the trans side, while the remaining 4 go in from the engine side... Going by memory here so I may be wrong

May be your trans mount that is bad...