More Rattle Sound In Drivers Front End Info

First off - thanks for all thetips on the rattly sound in my front end - I took off the driverl wheel today and put the car on a jack stand. There is no play at all back or forth or up or down on the ball joint. Everything seems solid under there with only one exception - there is a pin with bushings connecting the sway bar to the A frame. There is some play in this (stabilizer pin?)piece. What is this called and should this pr could this be the source of my noise??? Looks like an easy part to replace.

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NATO Member
Here is my 1987 TC, Mean look - Glad to be here...
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yes, Sway bar end links, i had the same noise problem. First check to see if there wore, because if the Bushing were loose they will wear faster. Other wise tighten the end link back up. The way you know if it's tight is: First the car must be on ground, 2nd, the bushings should be the size of the washer it sits againist(roughly). So you have to tighten the link till the bushings pancake enough.
It's only a pain cuz the car has to be on the ground, or a set of those nice car ramps can be a help

Worn sway bar/end link bushings can cause some noise, however you need to inspect the front suspension closer. More than likely it's either the ball joints or a worn tie rod.

Ball Joint Inspection:

Most (if not all) Fox cars have wear indicators built in to the ball joints. The spring puts the ball joints under load, so the "grab the tire and shake" doesn’t really work here. Look at the bottom of the joint - the flat part. There is a circular part in the center, maybe 3/8" to 1/2" diameter. If this is sticking up (pointing down) from the flat surrounding area less than 1 mm, the joints are worn. If it is flush with the flat area, the joint is BADLY worn.

The old shake and twist doesn't work for these ball joints. Use the wear indicators and even have a pro check the wear indicators. If it's a more tinny type rattle, check the splash shields on the brakes.

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NATO Member
88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, Main TC with K&N, 3"DP to 2.5"duals through Dynamax, Ric valve at 17+ and disconnected KS. Elite Bodega 16" chrome wheels. Autometer pod w/ A/F and Vac/boost gauges.140 mph Motorsports Speedo New engine: Total Seal rings and TRW pistons, ported and polished head w/ cc'd chambers,1.59"exhausts, SS valves, gutted upper, knife edged lower, A-230 cam, Race Engineering Adj Cam Sprocket, Crowlers, ARP head studs, and rod bolts. Walbro 255 HP pump and Kirban adj FPR, T-3. Centerforce II, KB subs and jack rails.

check the caliper slide pin bushings,see if you can wiggle the caliper around,my 88 has had a rattle in the front and I finally realized when I hit the brakes lightly over bumps the noise would go away, put car on lift and found I could move caliper up and down, check those also.

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87base turbo coupe 120,000 miles, mods auburn diferential with 3.73 gears,140 mph speedo,adjustable camgear set at 4degrees advance.88turbocoupe 166,ooo miles factory moonroof,autolamps,powerseats,premium sound with equalizer,no mods,got car for free and is not worth it, it's an automatic.daily driver

I agree on the caliper pins. I am 99% sure mine need to be replaced right now!