more friggin problems

well since last time i was on here i was having problems with [Image: redface.gif]il leaks,and running shitty.i got the oil leak solved,new valve pan gasket,it still lacks power and its got new plugs wires rotor and cap, all motorcraft it runs little better but it acts like its holding back,another thing the antilock brake light is on and theres an awful grinding noise coming from the back drivers side wheel,i couldnt here it before cause i didnt have any exhaust from the cat. back.i got it fixed yesterday which was shitty because i specified that i wanted 2 1/2from cat back and they put factory size on it which they said was 2 inch i thought factory was 2 1/4?also it idles high like 1500 to 2000 rpms, and sometimes it idles like its supposed to.1000 rpms im sorry for aways writing long posts. thanks in advance

Pull the codes and do the TPS check for the high idle. There is an article "Idle/TPS Adjustment" in the Technical Articles.

Check the cam timing then the ignition timing for the lack of power.

Sounds like you need to pull the rear brake apart. The Pins mayu have froze and allowed one of the pad to wear down to bare metal.

Stock exhaust size was 2.25" out of the Y pipe but narrowed to around 1 & 7/8" after the mufflers.

Pull the codes out of the ABS computer, in the trunk to find out about the light.

Pete
I tore the back brakes apart. One of the pads were wore to the metal. You say the pins may have froze. What do I have to do to fix that? Rebuild the caliper? Let me know. Thanks

For the part where you described the car as "holding back", when you did the plugs and rotor, etc, did you replace the TFI module? My car studdered and missed throughout the RPM range after a "normal" tune-up. I replaced the TFI, and it cleared it up quite a bit. If yours is old, (mine was the factory piece), or if you have never replaced it, try giving that a shot.

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88 TC, in need of some TLC, 5spd, all options except leather, and sunroof, 82,000 Orginal miles. 1970 Buick GS 455, auto, unrestored, yellow with black vinal top, stock, 13.72 on street tires.

The pins are what lets the caliper slide (side to side). When they freeze, the caliper can't slide any more and one pad wears. Pins and the rubber protective boots are a standard replacement item. There are lots of past posts on this

Pull the codes before you go replacing a TFI.
Also I can send you a bench test for the TFI and PIP. Test before you buy.

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NATO Member. it's not a vice, it's an obsession
everyone has a photographic memory. Some, like me, just don't have any film.
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88 TC, 86 SVO, 04 Escape. Mods list at
http://www.turbotbird.com/showroom/pd_88tc.htm

im going to run the codes again and see what i get ,pete that would be cool if you sent that bench test.im going tomarow to see if napa has the replacement parts. thanks again

The TFI you can get from Ford or other parts stores. You can get the PIP as a seperate item and replace it yourself, but you have to drive the gear off the distributor to do it, after removing the roll pin. See the "TFI/PIP Replacement" article in the Technical Articles. Not technically hard, but if your not careful and use the right set up, you can break teeth off the gear. (BTDT) You can find replacement gears several places but they are only drilled on one side for the roll pin which originally passes through both sides of the gear. And it's a mother to drill straight.

Or you can buy a reman distributor. I did this through NAPA about 4 years ago. You will have to turn in a core (or pay a core charge)
but any old 2.3 dist will work. A reman should come with a new PIP.

Check your email for the TFI/PIP test.

[This message has been edited by Pete D (edited 07-25-2004).]