Missing? and running like crap

The plugs and wires were in absolute garbage condition. One of the plug wires was totally destroyed on the plug end, and the plugs themselves were all full of carbon from misfiring and very overgapped (like 0.42 almost).

I noticed the radiator cap isn't very tight also, and it doesn't require any effort to turn at all, and steam spews out when the car is running. I think maybe that has a bit to do with it also, but like you said, I'm still going to keep an eye on everything.

Damn, my car leaves that exact black spot in my drive way. Its doing about the same thing you mentioned, i need to get those motorcraft wires . and recheck my spark gap.

Originally posted by Ryan H:
Oh, and the coolant hasn't drained any and I drove it about 20 miles. I don't know why it was eating it up but that went away I guess [Image: confused.gif]

Maybe you had a air pocket in the cooling system & it took that long for the system to burp it out. Like Pete says, keep an eye on it and check it everyday. Carry a spare gallon of antifreeze in the trunk just in case you run low for a couple of weeks.

------------------
Tony Sceia -

HIS - Red 88 TC, Med Red with Raven Leather & every option, Walbro 255, 3" SS Downpipe with Magnaflow Dual SS 2.5 Cat Back system, 3-core Radiator, Star Stage 3 Clutch, Rebuilt T-5 Tranny, 4:10 rear, 140 MPH Speedo, New Paint, Headlights, Refinished Snowflakes & New Tires.

HERS - Blue 87 TC, fully loaded with every option, Gilies Valve, K & N Filter, 3-core Radiator...just needs a little body work & a new paint job.

87 TC - Bought as a Parts Car, & will remain a parts car now that I found the blue one.

I'd do what Joe and Pete said. Also did you pull the plugs to see if they were wet, like there was anitfreeze on them ?

------------------
Grey 88 5 Spd. 16" Cobra wheels, G3 130 AMP ALT. New Hella Fog lights, Gillis valve @ 15 PSI,6"Front mount K&N, PST front end kit, Performance Plus brakes, Pro 5.0 shifter...

I noticed when I changed the plugs that they were all dry. I need to do a compression test.. [Image: frown.gif]

ok. I noticed there is some sort of odd plate between my IAC and throttle body with some set screws. It has a part number on it too, so I'm guessing its from Ford. Anyway, I backed the screws all the way out. I blasted the IAC out with brake cleaner, and blasted the throttle body out with carb cleaner and put it all back together. I let the car warm up, unplugged the IAC, set the base idle. This was by moving the REAL base idle screw all the way down and then adjusting the set screws on the plate between the IAC and throttle body until the base idle settled at around 750-800. I then plugged the IAC back in and it worked it's way down to 1100RPM slowly.

I took it for a spin, and it seemed to work. It almost stalled out once (the car had been stalling at stop lights) but it jumped back up to 1K. The rest of the cruise was fine. A couple of WOT bursts through the streets and no rough idle or anything!

I'm going to check the TPS voltage tomorrow. The car doesn't seem like it wants to "pick up" as quick as I hit the gas- it sort of chokes itself I guess.

After that I think I'm gonna do the vac lines [Image: smile.gif] I'll have a restored Thunderbird in no time. Thanks again! [Image: biggrin.gif]

Why didn't you follow the instructions for setting your base idle / TPS from the tech articles section? I have no idea what this "plate" on the IAC that you're talking about is, but the base idle screw should be all you need to bring your idle down to the proper level. Could you take a picture?

1100 rpm is still too high for a warm idle. Also, you must adjust the TPS anytime you fool with the base idle screw as this will (obviously) change the butterfly valve's base position and consequentially the TPS's idle setting as well.

------------------
Estoril blue 1987 TC 5spd, 146k miles, a237, Bailey BOV, spec stg3 clutch, spearco FMIC, t3/t4 50 trim / stage III .63, 3" exhaust, eec-tuner, lm1 wb, 55pph injectors
Best 1/4 mile: 12.89 @ 106mph on 25psi, 1.78 60'

It is a Ford part. It was from the TSB 91-25-7.

It was designed to "provide a permanent correction" for issues that were caused by sludge on the throttle body and plate.

Also, you are suppose to adjust the idle with those trim screws that are on the adapter plate.

Edit: i didn't see Steve's reply before i posted mine. Personally, i don't use the plate, and i'd personally follow the directions from the NATO site here.

i was just stating that plate is a Ford plate under a certain TSB for these vehicles. In the TSB, it outlines the procedure for adjusting the idle with that plate. They recommend you adjust the base idle using the set (trim) screws that are found on that plate adapter.

[This message has been edited by JT (edited 01-20-2005).]

I bypassed the plate (took it off) and tried setting the idle and it wouldn't go under 1000 RPM base!

I was sent one of those plates but never installed it. I think Dan E installed one a few years ago but I don't remember the details