North American Turbocoupe Organization



Metal Line into Turbo Question
rs1sensen Offline
Member
#1
Hey guys,
For those of you who followed my other thread, I ended up rebuilding the engine. I sent the engine in to a professional machine shop, and intended to supervise the reinstallation myself. However, while on vacation in Florida, I ended up getting a job offer down here, and had to have my neighbor reinstall everything, which already makes me nervous but he's pretty good. Unfortunately, he's not much of a turbo guy, and neither am I.

He just called to let me know that the one issue they've run into is a small metal line (oil line?) going into the turbo. There was a small leak there, but my guess would be that they never had that all connected properly, or if they did take it off for whatever reason, they didn't know what they were doing.

Supposedly, the line appears to be perfect. He just doesn't know how to properly attach it to the turbo. Anybody have any tips on this one?

I'm regretting having this guy do the work, but my options have been pretty limited very suddenly. My new job is great, but I'm spending mucho $$$$ on moving furniture from Michigan to Florida, paying 2 months rent on a new rented house, and paying out my deposit. He was my only option.

Thanks,
Ryan
1985 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe w/ Approx 75k miles
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deucecoupe Offline
Junior Member
#2
wow, I had better get those screwdrivers back to you that you left in my parts car, good luck on your new job, I dont have a good idea on what might be wrong with your turbo line, I am sure someone here will
88 TC T5 Gillis, [email protected] "deuce"
88 TC T5 (parts)

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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#3
Ryan, The line may have got cross threaded or the fitting in the turbo that receives the line may have even cracked. You could try a new brass fitting in the turbo. However, read on.

Even though the oil supply line "looks" good from the outside, I would suggest you get a new one, aftermarket. The reason is the old one has varnish on the inside walls that may flake and which will find it's way into and plug up the oil passages in the turbo. That will mean a turbo rebuild or replacement.

Most good turbo shops will not guarantee a new or rebuilt turbo unless a new supply line is used
Pete Dunham


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rs1sensen Offline
Member
#4
Does the line just slide in, or does it turn in? I haven't looked very closely at the line before, so I'm at a loss of memory for what those areas even look like. As closely as you can describe it would be truly appreciated.

What is the best source for a reasonably priced line? I'm on a very serious budget at this point. I may just push the car on the trailer in a couple weeks and fix it myself when I get it down in Florida so I know its done right.

Where can I find a new plug? Turbo was replaced at some point, but I believe is 100% stock.

While I think it would be awesome to drive it across the country. I'm just not willing to push a newly rebuilt engine like that, and if something is wrong, I'd hate to get stuck somewhere. So, it gets towed behind the moving truck.

I did hear the car run the other day right before they noticed the leak, and it sounded GREAT!
1985 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe w/ Approx 75k miles
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#5
Stinger can probably fix you up with a flexible supply line. Supply line threads (turns) into the brass fitting on the turbo. You can get a new brass fitting at any store that carries brass fittings, like most stores that have plumbing. I have gotten them at a Sears Hardware before. It's pipe thread. Do not use teflon tape on any fitting in the turbo oil system.
Pete Dunham


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rs1sensen Offline
Member
#6
Alright, I got some more clarification on whats been going on with my car. FINALLY.

Turns out the oil return line was fine (although I'm going to replace that later anyways). Supposedly, the oil line from the block to the turbo looks like it had been cut at some point, and then crimped on one end, likely by the shop that did my rebuild.

So...I'm just verifying, because my mechanic is having difficulty removing the line at the turbo end, that line just screws in, and there are no special tools or magic to it? He seemed to think the line was built into the turbo and couldn't be removed, but I think he's just an idiot at this (to be blunt, I'm tired of being nice about this guy).

I'm sorry to be so redundant, if I were doing it myself it'd be done correct by now.

I did forget to order one, so tomorrow I'm going to call around and see if anyone can overnight me one at a reasonable price. Otherwise, I'll just have it sent to Florida and do the work here. I'd just really like to have everything done in Michigan so I can be certain there aren't any other issues.
1985 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe w/ Approx 75k miles
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#7
Using a "line" wrench, a five sided wrench that is open on the 6th side to allow it to slide over the line and then around the fitting is the best tool to get traction and keep from rounding off the fitting
Pete Dunham


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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#8
I hate to say it, but your "mechanic" is a total idiot. It should be painfully obvious to anyone with even a slight amount of mechanical knowledge that it is a threaded fitting. Just from looking at it, it should be easy to see that it is an NPT thread.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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RDOG Offline
Posting Freak
#9
^+1
I think most likely they broke the line, and your friend is looking at a damaged oil return line. Lots of times folks will try and turn that 15mm nut of exhaust manifold by the #4 plug. and not realize they just destroyed the oil return line until they look up and see it twisting around in a mangled circle.
1986 Turbo Coupe. Boport StageIII head, Boport 2.1, Performance Techniques 50 trim hybird, StageII.63, stinger 3" exhaust, Phenolic spacer, Boglog header,NPR FMIC intercooler setup, kirban fpr, bigrmotorsports fuel rail, diablo water meth kit, CAI, remote mount TFI, CHE rear adj control arms, MAC girdle, 8.8 rear disc, aluminum drive shaft, H&R lowerings springs Tbird Turbo Specific, y MAS!!
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rs1sensen Offline
Member
#10
Jeff, RDOG, I totally agree.

I'm going to have him leave it and I'll properly fix it when I get it back to Florida. I was just in a bind and had seen this guy do decent work while under my direction. My normal mechanic, who is excellent, is also usually swamped and wouldn't have been available in the short term notice I needed.
1985 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe w/ Approx 75k miles
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