Lots of Electrical issues- Need Wire Diagrams for the whole car and advice

Hey Guys!

It's been a long time since I last posted. After alot of family situations I had to take care of I have finally gotten my TC going again. When I finally did, I did not have the fololwing workjing

Clock in the center
Radio
Door Keypad
Power Mirrors

I drove it around a little getting it some run time till I got some time to figure it out those things. Well I parked her, and then the next day she cranks but wont start. So i towed it into the garage, and pop the hood. The first thing I went to do is check for spark, and I wanted to visibly see the dizzy spin, just to make sure. Well I do have spark, and the dis cap screws broke off in the distributor. 

Question #1: Is there an easy way to get the broken screws out, or am I screwed, pull the dizzy and work them out on the bench?


I pulled codes, I had one for the boost controller form not running factory boost controller, I had a high O2 I believe. Unfortunate I did not write them down, and my tester erased its memory before i got a chance to write this

I also think I erased them I'll have to tray again.

Now I still cannot get her to start. I am hoping someone can either send me scans or can point to where I can obtain the FULL wire diagrams for EVERYTHING on the 87 TC.  I am wondering about write integrity since it sat , so the more I can get the better. IDK if Ford did the diagrams where they show where connects are located in addition to the more detailed ones but any and all info is greatly appreciated. I got her on the road for about 2 weeks and bam  

Question #2: Can someone please send me or tell where I can get all the Ford wire diagrams for everything on the TC? I have a couple for minor things, but I need everything at this pint since I have to trouble shoot multiple things. (All of them did not die at the exact same time, so Im not saying they are NOT related but im keeping an open mind on it could be either or.)


Assuming all my wiring is good, the only other thing I can think of is the PIP/TFI? To be clear i have spark going into the dizzy, that's as far as I got so far.


Help me please

I was able to re-read the codes. I accidently cleared them the first time. I am noticing now, i f i clear the codes, it starts... for a couple puffs and then die, then its a crank no start.

Codes it gives are Continuous: 42,63, 72 KOEO: 81

Here is a page I used for checking codes before
http://www.tbirdheritage.com/turbocoupe/...-Chart.php
Also, did you check your fuel pressure? If you are getting spark, then all you need is fuel.

Here is a page I used for checking codes before
http://www.tbirdheritage.com/turbocoupe/...-Chart.php
Also, did you check your fuel pressure? If you are getting spark, then all you need is fuel.

Thanks, Yep I got fuel, also just installed brand new tank, with sending unit and pump both

I would pull the distributor to get those screws out, and a perfect time to put a new PIP and TFI on it. I use a chiltons manual that has all of the wiring diagrams in it, maybe find one of those online

Best source for wiring diagrams is the EVTM (Electrical / Vacuum Troubleshooting manual). Check Ebay for used ones. Either an 87 or 88 manual will be fine as very little changed in the electrical system between the two years.

Have you checked the actual fuel pressure with a gauge? Should be 39 psi KOEO.

Any chance the timing belt broke or skipped a few teeth? Belts tend to rot just sitting over extended periods of time. Even if the timing belt isnt broken, etc replacing it might be a good idea.

As Kuch suggested replacing the PIP and TFI would be a good idea. Try to source Motorcraft parts if possible. If Motorcraft isnt available,
look for name brand parts, not cheap junk from Auto Zone, etc.

May try disconnecting / reconnecting electrical connectors under the hood a few times to make sure they are making good contact.

I doubt the timing belt, but I guess never say never, but it looks great in the inspection hole so far, and dizz is turning good and clean.

I guess I might need to go back to basics, is there something special about hooking up a FP gauge on TC I forgot. I have it hooked up loike this, and I am getting 0 PSI. Hoewever it will give a small inital start and doies immediately. Not sure if I believe the gauge. Did I manage to hook it to something else besides the fuel rail? (I really dont think so, but im surprised at 0 especially when it does give a ...i'll call it a small burp and dies.... I dont think 0 PSI is enough to even do that)

I doubt the timing belt, but I guess never say never, but it looks great in the inspection hole so far, and dizz is turning good and clean.

I guess I might need to go back to basics, is there something special about hooking up a FP gauge on TC I forgot. I have it hooked up loike this, and I am getting 0 PSI. Hoewever it will give a small inital start and doies immediately. Not sure if I believe the gauge. Did I manage to hook it to something else besides the fuel rail? (I really dont think so, but im surprised at 0 especially when it does give a ...i'll call it a small burp and dies.... I dont think 0 PSI is enough to even do that)

You have the right test port. You could jump the Fuel Pump circuit, using the EEC-IV test connector, to power the fuel pump continuously while you monitor the fuel pressure gauge to make sure 1) the fuel pressure didn't bleed down when you was doing it KOEO as it will only run 1-2 seconds and 2)use the bleeder button on the gauge to see if fuel is pumped out of the plastic fuel tube in case you doubt the gauge itself is bad.

See this article to perform the test:
https://turbotbird.com/thread-fuel-pump-...urbo-coupe

Car starting and immediately stalling can still be due to lack of fuel or fuel pressure. It's possible the engine can fire, from low starter RPM, on residual fuel but not enough fuel to idle.

if you turn the key on and off a few times without cranking then crank does it start?
You need to confirm you have fuel.
i changed the fuel pump in one of mine years ago and didn't have the one hose fully tightened and the hose in the tank popped off, it woul give me about 5psi and it would just fire a few times and shut off.
my other tc did a similar thing after swapping in a walbro 255, but the old hose i reused split. only giving me about 20psi, enough to run, but not actually drive.

agree on all recommendations about fuel. Also check power to fuel pump connector in back.