North American Turbocoupe Organization



LED headlights
anasazi4st Offline
Senior Member
#11
(03-13-2021, 01:45 AM)ABird Wrote: I just installed the LED headlights.  It took me awhile to figure out how to get the collar back on.  I ended up notching out a space for the wire, then it would sit in there straight.  I have to check the aim of them, but if I have to adjust, how do I do that?

As we mentioned before, probably best to adjust just below the centerline. I posted that, while no one flashed their lights at me or otherwise indicated that they were blinded by them, to be safe I’m going to lower the aim a bit.

Vegas_ss has it right. Put the car so the front bumper is almost or just barely touching the wall—sight across from the center of each headlight housing to the wall, and mark that with Blue Painter’s tape. That’s the Horizontal measurement.  Next, eyeball/sight the Vertical center of the housing, and mark that. Now, as straight as possible, back up so you’re about 6-10 feet away, and turn on the headlights.

One thing I’ve noticed is that the high beams are really pretty inadequate with these LEDs, it’s actually a step down from the low beams. If you are going to be driving a lot in areas where you’d utilize the high beams, might I suggest the modification in which the fog lights stay on with either low or high beam. It’s in the FAQ section:  Click here.
Another proud dues-paying member.

1987 Turbo Coupe w/T5OD, 8.8 axle, grey smoke; most options. Got it in 1991 with 41K miles: 3 turbos, 2 heater cores, 3 T5OD full rebuilds, 6 clutches, 1 head gasket, 2 Teves II ABS units, etc. later....
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ABird Offline
Member
#12
I adjusted the lights.  Up/down was easy to see, but left/right not so much.  Thanks for the help.
AES
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anasazi4st Offline
Senior Member
#13
(03-22-2021, 02:03 AM)ABird Wrote: I adjusted the lights.  Up/down was easy to see, but left/right not so much.  Thanks for the help.

Back in Western PA—Latrobe, to be precise—in the 1980s I would drive my 1979 Honda Prelude to a nearby strip mall and park on the side. There was a flat straight area facing a brick wall—perfect for what I wanted.

I am recalling these directions from memory—but I did it enough that I’m pretty sure it’s correct. Park as close to the wall as possible—there was a sidewalk, so not that close back then—and mark the height adjustment with tape on the wall. Try to sight straight ahead, so the center of the housing (or headlamp) is marked on the wall, giving you both the height and vertical center of each headlamp. This is important. Take a strip of blue painter’s tape and connect the two center markings, horizontally. Now, take another two strips of tape and place each one vertically on the center line mark.

You should have markings that look something like this  —+—+—  on the wall.

Now, measure 25 feet from the wall and put ‘er in reverse to that mark so that the headlights are even with it (this distance is a little bit fuzzy in my mind), keeping the wheels as straight as possible.

And there you have a simple headlight aiming diagram. You cover one headlamp and aim the other, and repeat. The instructions I had said that you should align the centers of each beam so they are just off the centerline to the right and just below the height marking—in other words, away from oncoming traffic

Good luck!
Another proud dues-paying member.

1987 Turbo Coupe w/T5OD, 8.8 axle, grey smoke; most options. Got it in 1991 with 41K miles: 3 turbos, 2 heater cores, 3 T5OD full rebuilds, 6 clutches, 1 head gasket, 2 Teves II ABS units, etc. later....
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ABird Offline
Member
#14
(03-24-2021, 08:52 AM)anasazi4st Wrote:
(03-22-2021, 02:03 AM)ABird Wrote: I adjusted the lights.  Up/down was easy to see, but left/right not so much.  Thanks for the help.

Back in Western PA—Latrobe, to be precise—in the 1980s I would drive my 1979 Honda Prelude to a nearby strip mall and park on the side. There was a flat straight area facing a brick wall—perfect for what I wanted.

I am recalling these directions from memory—but I did it enough that I’m pretty sure it’s correct. Park as close to the wall as possible—there was a sidewalk, so not that close back then—and mark the height adjustment with tape on the wall. Try to sight straight ahead, so the center of the housing (or headlamp) is marked on the wall, giving you both the height and vertical center of each headlamp. This is important. Take a strip of blue painter’s tape and connect the two center markings, horizontally. Now, take another two strips of tape and place each one vertically on the center line mark.

You should have markings that look something like this  —+—+—  on the wall.

Now, measure 25 feet from the wall and put ‘er in reverse to that mark so that the headlights are even with it (this distance is a little bit fuzzy in my mind), keeping the wheels as straight as possible.

And there you have a simple headlight aiming diagram. You cover one headlamp and aim the other, and repeat. The instructions I had said that you should align the centers of each beam so they are just off the centerline to the right and just below the height marking—in other words, away from oncoming traffic

Good luck!
Thanks for the detailed instructions.  So, I waited till just dark enough to start.  I marked the garage door with the tape.  Went back and forth to make adjustments.  Looked back at the garage door and my dog pulled off the tape on the driver's side.  Started the process again and just as I was finishing, it started to rain.  I closed the hood and this square piece of something dropped out of the hood.  Do you recognize it and where it goes?  I thought I better quit for the night.


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AES
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#15
Ann, I have no clue what that square piece of rubber(?) is. Several years ago when a rock nailed the AC condenser on my 05 Taurus SEL Premium Duratec and I had to replace the condenser, there were some square pieces that looked like that on the sides of the radiator that I think were meant to keep air from bypassing the radiator. I dont recall if my TC had something like that or not. If it did, I didnt reuse them when I put in an Aluminum HD radiator about 10 years ago.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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anasazi4st Offline
Senior Member
#16
(03-25-2021, 11:58 PM)ABird Wrote:
(03-24-2021, 08:52 AM)anasazi4st Wrote:
(03-22-2021, 02:03 AM)ABird Wrote: I adjusted the lights.  Up/down was easy to see, but left/right not so much.  Thanks for the help.

Back in Western PA—Latrobe, to be precise—in the 1980s I would drive my 1979 Honda Prelude to a nearby strip mall and park on the side. There was a flat straight area facing a brick wall—perfect for what I wanted.

I am recalling these directions from memory—but I did it enough that I’m pretty sure it’s correct. Park as close to the wall as possible—there was a sidewalk, so not that close back then—and mark the height adjustment with tape on the wall. Try to sight straight ahead, so the center of the housing (or headlamp) is marked on the wall, giving you both the height and vertical center of each headlamp. This is important. Take a strip of blue painter’s tape and connect the two center markings, horizontally. Now, take another two strips of tape and place each one vertically on the center line mark.

You should have markings that look something like this  —+—+—  on the wall.

Now, measure 25 feet from the wall and put ‘er in reverse to that mark so that the headlights are even with it (this distance is a little bit fuzzy in my mind), keeping the wheels as straight as possible.

And there you have a simple headlight aiming diagram. You cover one headlamp and aim the other, and repeat. The instructions I had said that you should align the centers of each beam so they are just off the centerline to the right and just below the height marking—in other words, away from oncoming traffic

Good luck!
Thanks for the detailed instructions.  So, I waited till just dark enough to start.  I marked the garage door with the tape.  Went back and forth to make adjustments.  Looked back at the garage door and my dog pulled off the tape on the driver's side.  Started the process again and just as I was finishing, it started to rain.  I closed the hood and this square piece of something dropped out of the hood.  Do you recognize it and where it goes?  I thought I better quit for the night.

Looks like you did a great job with the adjustment. That’s how I will adjust mine, same beam pattern.

As for the piece of rubber, maybe it was behind the hood scoop to intercooler channeling that’s directly underneath the hood. I’ve not seen anything like that before.
Another proud dues-paying member.

1987 Turbo Coupe w/T5OD, 8.8 axle, grey smoke; most options. Got it in 1991 with 41K miles: 3 turbos, 2 heater cores, 3 T5OD full rebuilds, 6 clutches, 1 head gasket, 2 Teves II ABS units, etc. later....
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Chas K 88 Offline
Member
#17
ABird
I have that square black piece between my battery and fender, it looks like it may be covering up a hole in the fender but I'm not gonna remove it to find out. You might look there on yours.
Chas K
Current setup - 88 T-bird, 5 speed, vacuum assist master cylinder, T3/T4 50 trim turbo from Bo-port, oil feed & return lines, 3” turbo down elbow, 3" to 2.5" dual exhaust and PiMPx from Stinger 255LPH fuel pump, CD, trip-minder, RR , K&N, 140 MPH speedo conversion (thanks Jeff K).
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