superchikn
Joined:
Mar 2009
Roanoke, Va.
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Anyone know where I could get a new knock sensor? Adavance Auto, Autozone no longer available.
Always FORD
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Pete D
Joined:
Apr 2001
Northern OH
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Knock sensors seldom fail. Failure is more likely due to a connector problem or wiring harness. Probably used is the way to go. Maybe some one here has one.
Pete Dunham
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superchikn
Joined:
Mar 2009
Roanoke, Va.
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I have an extra motor, just thought I would get a new one if available. Had another code come up for knock sensor and connection seems fine.
Always FORD
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JT
Posting Freak
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Knock sensor codes will appear during KOER if not properly tested. Might see the following for testing:
http://www.tbirdheritage.com/turbocoupe/...stepid=DG1
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superchikn
Joined:
Mar 2009
Roanoke, Va.
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I figured I would try replacing the knock sensor. Ive alreadt replaced the throttle position, egr, fuel regulator, plus, wires cap, rotor and idle control that all helped most of the trouble but the car stll doesn't have the power and it misses a little. It doesn't get very good boost then it drops fast and it will shut off and is hard to start and after it starts back it runs a lttle rough for a bit. the distributor is off a bit 1 is where 3 should be I'm going to pull it out and put it where it should be. Any more suggestions I would appreciate it I don't know much at all about these turbo motors.
Always FORD
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zbird
Joined:
Jul 2008
Joshua, Texas
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Quote:Originally posted by superchikn:
The distributor is off a bit 1 is where 3 should be I'm going to pull it out and put it where it should be.
That is the first thing that should be done before ever replacing the parts you have done. Always start with everything set to where it should be before troubleshooting these engines. They are very finicky and starting with proper settings helps everything else out. Even guys who have modified their engines go back to baseline before starting to fix whatever it is that is ailing their motors.
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Pete D
Joined:
Apr 2001
Northern OH
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[qute]That is the first thing that should be done before ever replacing the parts you have done. Always start with everything set to where it should be before troubleshooting these engines[/quote]
Agree. Until the cam timing and then the ignition timng are spot on, everything else is secondary.
Pete Dunham
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RC Martin
Joined:
Mar 2006
Colorado
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If you really think it's your knock sensor, just unplug the thing and see if it still runs bad... From the sounds of it, you probably just have a timing problem.
Thunderbird Turbo Coupe, Bright Canyon Red TuTone, Desert Tan Interior; 1 of 7 in this combo in 1984 according to Marti. 1 of 13,361 TCs in 84.
Rebuilt, 3-Angle Valve Job, SYB37 "OE/Small" Slider Cam
Full 3" Stinger Exhaust to Flowmaster 40, Gnari FMIC/Recirc/BPV, MBC @ 18psi, RF-E6 Manifold, Remote-Mount TFI, PC1 and Flowed 35# Injectors, Inline Walboro 255HP, Kirban AFPR
Rebuilt Suspension -- KYB & Energy Suspension
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superchikn
Joined:
Mar 2009
Roanoke, Va.
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Ok just put a new distributor and module in got timing sit perfect. Car runs great idling drive it down the road get to a hill and the car starts falling on its face again acts like its running on 3 cylinders and then picks back up. Pull back in driveway sounds like 3 cylinders and it sits there idling like that for a couple minutes and then picks back up. Any more ideas PLEASE. fuel pump, injector?
(car is building boost)
Always FORD
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Not B Anymore
Joined:
Apr 2001
Nokesville, VA, USA
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Have any codes besides the knock sensor... KOEO, KOER, Memory?
Checked for vacuum/boost leaks? (pressure test the intake)
Are you positive the cam timing is right?
Are you able to run a compression test?
Fuel system diagnostics wouldn't be a bad idea.
http://turbocoupe.org/techinfo/Fuel_Syst...ostics.htm
http://turbocoupe.org/techinfo/Fuel_Pump...ostics.htm
Brian Leavitt
'86 TC 5-Speed -- MS2x w/COP | 83 lb. injectors | T3/T4 50 Trim Stage 3 .63AR | Full 3" Exhaust - No Cat | Motorsport FMIC | Ranger Roller | Ported E6 | Walbro 255HP | Kirban | 20psi | 120-amp 3G | 8.8" 3.55 rear | '03 Cobra Wheels
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