347BIRD
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Joined:
May 2019
ST CHARLES, MO
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HI ALL,
New to the site but been reading it a lot. I am having my IHI rebuilt currently and im wondering if im supposed to prime the the turbo before my first startup somehow. IM thinkin it would need oil in it and not sure how that works?? please help
1988 Blk T-Bird, 5-spd, Raven int, 3G Alt, K&N conical, Boost controller, ported E6, ported and polished IHI @ 16 psi, 03 Cobra wheels, 255/40/17, 275/40/17, SN95 BBK lowering springs, SN95 Koni struts and shocks, Maximum Motorsports C/C plates, SN95 BMR tubular A-arms, Aluminum driveshaft, LED's, 255 LPH
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Mikey97D
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Joined:
Jan 2018
CONNECTICUT
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Everything is listed here for an oil change and would apply to your first start up with the rebuild.
https://turbotbird.com/thread-turbo-care-oil-changes
1988 TC, 5 spd, Stinger 3" Exhaust, Schneider Roller Cam, -4° Cam Pulley, Cone Filter, Gilles Boost Control Valve set at 17 psi, Walbro 255 lph, CHE Rear Lower and Upper Control Arms, Braided Brake Lines, Hawk HPS 5.0 Front and HPS (F) Rear, CRES Inserts in front calipers, and '93 Cobra Wheels with General 235/50R17 Tires.
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Pete D
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Joined:
Apr 2001
Northern OH
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05-14-2019, 08:47 PM
(This post was last modified: 05-14-2019, 08:49 PM by Pete D.
Edit Reason: additional info
)
Prime engine/turbo after every oil change. If you hold gas pedal dead on the floor while cranking, the engine will not start as long as the gas pedal is matted to the floor. Doing it this way, the system thinks you are trying to clear a "flooded" condition, hence it won't start until your foots off the gas pedal.
Pete Dunham
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anasazi4st
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Joined:
Feb 2015
Phoenix, AZ
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(05-14-2019, 08:47 PM)You Pete D Wrote: Prime engine/turbo after every oil change. If you hold gas pedal dead on the floor while cranking, the engine will not start as long as the gas pedal is matted to the floor. Doing it this way, the system thinks you are trying to clear a "flooded" condition, hence it won't start until your foots off the gas pedal.
To quote the late great Johnny Carson: “I did not know that.”
I’ve always just pulled the coil wire from the distributor, cranked the engine two times for about 5-10 seconds each, and then reconnected it. I like the simple elegance of your method.
Another proud dues-paying member.
1987 Turbo Coupe w/T5OD, 8.8 axle, grey smoke; most options. Got it in 1991 with 41K miles: 3 turbos, 2 heater cores, 3 T5OD full rebuilds, 6 clutches, 1 head gasket, 2 Teves II ABS units, etc. later....
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347BIRD
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Joined:
May 2019
ST CHARLES, MO
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Got the new (rebuilt) turbo in and car is running again!!! Man, it feels good to be in the bird again. I had a little trouble w/getting some of the hard lines to mate up but all is done,,, praying for no leaks! haha
1988 Blk T-Bird, 5-spd, Raven int, 3G Alt, K&N conical, Boost controller, ported E6, ported and polished IHI @ 16 psi, 03 Cobra wheels, 255/40/17, 275/40/17, SN95 BBK lowering springs, SN95 Koni struts and shocks, Maximum Motorsports C/C plates, SN95 BMR tubular A-arms, Aluminum driveshaft, LED's, 255 LPH
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anasazi4st
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Joined:
Feb 2015
Phoenix, AZ
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(05-24-2019, 01:28 PM)347BIRD Wrote: Got the new (rebuilt) turbo in and car is running again!!! Man, it feels good to be in the bird again. I had a little trouble w/getting some of the hard lines to mate up but all is done,,, praying for no leaks! haha
Great to see another Turbo Coupe back on the road, congratulations!
Another proud dues-paying member.
1987 Turbo Coupe w/T5OD, 8.8 axle, grey smoke; most options. Got it in 1991 with 41K miles: 3 turbos, 2 heater cores, 3 T5OD full rebuilds, 6 clutches, 1 head gasket, 2 Teves II ABS units, etc. later....
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