North American Turbocoupe Organization



Just picked up an 88 TC
Noname
Unregistered
#1
This is my 1st post on here, I found this board after looking at the 88 TC that I just bought today. I have always thought these were cool looking cars, and when I just happed to come across this 1 I had to have it. It is stock, and it has a 5 speed. The guy had the head redone on it and it still smoked like a mosquito sprayer. My buddy says its probably the turbo which is no big deal I wouldnt think so I bought it for 500 bucks. It only has 88,000 miles on it and it is CLEAN!!!
Where should I start the mods guys? I am thinking 3.73 first, then what? I want mid 13's at least. Thanks RAY (Akron Ohio)
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#2
Ray, It's always nice to hear from a fellow Ohioan. I'm in Amherst west of Cleve town.
13's are doable and a 3.73 is part of the recipe, but unless someone is beating your door down to give you one, I don't know that that is where I would start. I would find and cure your oil smoke problem first. It could be the turbo (seals), it could be bad rings, do a compression check. Could be a bad PCV valve and bad rings. The New?? valve seals may have gotten crushed from improper assembly when the head was done. Valve guides could be shot. You need to do some diagnosis work here, fix the problems, then worry about
mods. Don't you have to get it through E-check? [Image: frown.gif]
Pete Dunham


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Noname
Unregistered
#3
Well first off, don't waste your money on the 3.73 gears. Your car already has 3.55's in it, the difference would be negligable at best. The first thing you want to do is figure out why it's burning oil and fix that first. My reccomended mods list from there would be K&N cone on the VAM or in the fender, free flowing exhaust 2 1/4" or bigger duals as a start, or a 3" single. Then add a Gillis valve to up your boost, subframe connectors and a 3" downpipe to round out the exhaust system. If can afford to do all this at once, great, if not that's pretty much the order I'd do them in. Except I might do the subframe connectors first or near first. Kenny Brown makes an excellent set for Thunderbirds. Also doing a basic tune up will help a lot as well, plugs, wires, cap and rotor (all Motorcraft from your FLM dealer is best), change all your fluids, that kind of stuff. And above all, enjoy your new car! Congrats! [Image: cool.gif]
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SteveX82 Offline
Posting Freak
#4
i'm just writing this in support of james's (i can never contract weird words like that) suggestion to get the gillis valve, k&n and the new exhaust. right now, i've only got the gillis valve (at 18lbs) and the k&n and have run a best e/t of 15.389 and a best trap speed of 90.25. from what i've seen online, that's a full second off the stock 1/4 mile time for about $80 worth of parts. of course, another second off the time will probably cost upwards of $1000 (ported head and intake, new cam, exhaust, etc).
Estoril blue 1987 TC 5spd, 148k mi, a237, Bailey BOV, spec stg3 clutch, spearco FMIC, 50 trim t3/t4, 3" exhaust, Bamafuel, LM1, 55pph
Best 1/4 mile: 12.31 @ 110mph on 25psi
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Noname
Unregistered
#5
I always use my sisters address to get around that e-check. She lives in Wayne county and they dont have it. I am going to do the compression check this weeek. BTW, the turbo is putting out NOTHING, according to the gauge. I hope to have this thing to Dragway 42 FAST. Thanks for all the help. And before I forget, what kind of exhaust do you reccomend? I kinda like the sound of Flomaster. Do they make anything for this car? RAY
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#6
If the car runs faster than a diesel VW van, the turbo is working. Could be the vacuum hose to the gauge fell off or has a hole in it.
Exhaust wise, you want a 3" downpipe and either a single 3" all the way back or 2.5" duals. Flowmasters are chanbered and are 1.louder than most people want, 2. may not be optimum for performance in a turbo. Turbos do better with the non-chambered straight through designs like Magnflow, Dynamax and others.

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88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, Main TC with K&N, 3"DP to 2.5"duals through Dynamax, Ric valve at 17+ and disconnected KS.
Elite Bodega 16" chrome wheels. Autometer pod w/ A/F and Vac/boost gauges. New engine shortly, ported head and
manifolds, polished and cc'd chambers, RR, Crowler, ARP head studs, Walbro 190 pump and T-3 for starters. KB subs
and jack rails
Pete Dunham


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Noname
Unregistered
#7
If you're not sure if the turbo is providing any boost, just get one of those vacum guage/fuel pressure tester units (cheaper than a boost guage for a quick test) and plug it into a fitting on the vacum tree. Tape it to the bottom of the windshield and go for a drive. Most of those guages will read somewhere from 6 to 15 psi on the pressure side so you can see if the turbo is providing any boost. If it's giving you 6 pounds or more, it's probably okay. If not, check all the hoses plugged into it for splits, cracks and rot. If you're still not sure, take off the inlet adapter from the front of the turbo and turn the compressor by hand, if it spins freely, try and wiggle it as you turn it. If the compressor blades strike the side of the compressor housing the turbo is wasted. One other thing you can check is the wastegate rod. If it's rusted through, or disconnected the wastegate could be in the full bypass position and not alow any boost to build.

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87 TC 5-speed Black, loaded. 17psi, G3 alternator, KB subs, Grant steering wheel, custom greasable swaybar bushings, K&N. Soon to have KB Trackit Axle brackets, Maximum Motorsports lower control arms, T-3, Saab intercooler, ranger roller cam Gen1 DSM BOV and rebuilt front suspension.
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