Just got my first '87 TC, having some concerns

Dont spend $$replacing parts that dont need replacing. Ball joints can be good / tie rod ends bad, and vise versa. Ford ball joints are easy to "test" by looking at the wear indicators on the bottom of the joints. Tie rod ends (inner, outer) are easy to test by grabbing the tire and rocking it while a helper looks for the source of the play. These tests / checks are very easy to do, only take a few minutes, and any honest mechanic will do them and tell you what parts are good and what parts are bad. If he says "could be tie rods or ball joints, lets just replace them all" without verifying the exact problem, RUN AWAY, and go find an HONEST mechanic.

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Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 21 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 02 Taurus Vulcan(wifes car)

The prices don't sound bad it that is the total price, including labor and parts, IMO. What bothers me is that he should be able to tell you specifically what is bad. Is it the tie rods and if so, which one(s), inner or outer, left or right, there are two of each. Is it the ball joints? Is it both tie rods and ball joints. If it's tie rods, does the price include the wheel alignment that has to be done when tie rods are replaced?

Get the estimate in writting before he does the work


[This message has been edited by Pete D (edited 09-10-2004).]

He said the estimate was rough for not actually looking but that is what the cost would probably be if I were to need to replace either of those parts.

He said after he gets the car up and gets the tires and stuff off to look he can tell me exactly what it will cost buy my mom had to go so we're bringing it back Monday.

He's done a lot of work on cars for my family in the last ~8 years and they've never been dissatisfied with him

Ryan

Save yourself a lot of aggravation and buy an inexpensive Chilton's or Haynes manual for the T-Coupe. Even if you don't feel up to doing the repairs yourself there are plenty of useful troubleshooting tips (e.g. ball joint checks) and specs to make it worth the investment.

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fun, fun, fun - Justin

I actually plan on picking one up tomorrow [Image: smile.gif]

I found my old code scanner for my 2.3L EFI '91 Mustang LX and it works on the Thunderbird.. I hooked it up just to test it and it started telling me codes so I assume I'm gonna have to check some stuff I'm not sure about fixing.

Ryan

Originally posted by digi:

He said after he gets the car up and gets the tires and stuff off to look he can tell me exactly what it will cost buy my mom had to go so we're bringing it back Monday.

I still dont trust this guy.... checking ball joint wear, tie rod ends for looseness, sway bar bushings and end links do NOT require removal of the wheels/tires, and in fact, it is much easier to observe tie rod looseness with the tires on..... more leverage when "shaking" the assy. to look for the wear. Ball joint wear can easily be checked in 30 seconds without even lifting the car off the ground.... all you do it look at the wear indicators.

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Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 21 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 02 Taurus Vulcan(wifes car)