Forcedbird
Joined:
Sep 2002
Seneca Falls, N.Y., United States
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Just wanted to let you guys know that I joined the heater core club this weekend. It took about 8hrs to do. The only bad thing that happend was I cracked my perfect dash in 3 spots trying to removing the drivers side speaker grill. Do you guys have any tricks from stoping it from running or spliting?
Thanks NATO for the help!
88 TC
HY 35, Ported Oval head w/OS valves, EEC Tuner, Bob's MOAL, .510 lift cam, Tial 38mm wastegate, K&N in fender, Kirban AFPR, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, 57 lb inj., GN intercooler, Gillis valve, Race eng. adjustable cam pulley, HKS SSQV BOV, Steeda Tri-ax shifter, 4" DP to 2 1/2" exhaust, no muffers, Timing set to 12* BTDC, 26 psi of boost. Needs to get tuned!
Proud to be a NATO member!
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tps87turbo
Joined:
Feb 2003
Hammonton, NJ USA
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Depending on how bad the crack is, it may not spread anymore. I ususaly put something under my screwdriver (like a towel or cardboard) when pulling speaker covers to prevent those cracks. Can you post a couple of pics so we can see how bad it is? If you want, you can get a dashcap to cover those cracks. Several people have them & are happy with them.
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Turbojet
Joined:
Feb 2002
Connellsville, Pa. USA
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Quote:Originally posted by Forcedbird:
Just wanted to let you guys know that I joined the heater core club this weekend. It took about 8hrs to do. The only bad thing that happend was I cracked my perfect dash in 3 spots trying to removing the drivers side speaker grill. Do you guys have any tricks from stoping it from running or spliting?
I did the same thing, cracked my perfect dash changing the dreaded heater core.
Looked it over later and figured out if I remove the gauge cluster, then push up on the speaker grill pins it'll save from cracking the dash pad on that side. The other side I dropped the glove box and reached up through and pushed the speaker grill pins up on that side.
Hope this helps for the next time!
Thanks NATO for the help!
The Family:
86
87
88
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Matt S
Joined:
Apr 2001
Mountlake Terrace, WA
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I bet you feel good about getting it done!
I got my dash in and out without cracking it at ALL and 4 days later one morning a crack at the light sensor appeared and I hadn't even driven it yet. Go figure.
Sold it *
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Jeff K
Joined:
Apr 2001
Milwaukee, WI
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I put a foot long wood ruler right under the grille on the dash, and pry against the ruler.
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Jeff Korn
88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 23 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car) // 91 Topaz (daughters first car)
Jeff Korn
88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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Pete D
Joined:
Apr 2001
Northern OH
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On the driver's side speaker grill, you can remove the gauge pod and then push the expansion retainers up from the bottom instead of having to pry them up by putting pressure on the dash pad. One retainer is accessible from behind the pod. The other from the heater duct.
Turbojet told me about this method. I just used it about 2 weeks ago.
[This message has been edited by Pete D (edited 09-27-2005).]
Pete Dunham
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