North American Turbocoupe Organization



It Just Died
b_greve Offline
Junior Member
#1
A couple of nights ago I was driving to my friends house when all of a sudden the engine just died. It didn't sputter or cough, it just quit. So while i'm still moving I crank it over, but it wouldn't start. Even tried throwing it into third and popping the clutch while I was still moving, and all it did was spin the engine.

It turns over just fine, but it wont start. I ran the codes and got 21, and 24: probably because the engine wasn't warmed up when I tested it.

When I turn the key on I can still hear the fuel pump building pressure, so i'm pretty sure it's getting gas. In the FAQ's section it said something about checking a valve on the fuel rail to see it gas squirted out when the key is on. How can I do this?

I don't think the timing belt came off, so if it's a timing issue, all that leaves is the distributer/plug wires/plugs, right?

I can't tell if it's getting a spark, so maybe thats it.

It there's anything else you can think of please help me out. Untill I get it fixed i'm gonna have to walk to school. [Image: frown.gif]

Thanks
Brad

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-Brad Greve - Stock 86 five speed TC other than a K&N,
-Brad Greve - Stock 86 five speed TC other than a K&N in the fender
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B_Lieder Offline
Senior Member
#2
the code 21 is ECT out of self test range and the code 24 is ACT or VAT out of self test range. I don;t know if the engine coolant temp sensor or the air charge temperature sensor can kill an engine. I think your right about the code readings and the engine being cold. But i guess anything is possible. I don;t know if you have checked but my car did the same thing last year and the battery terminals had corrosion on them. It died 3 times in 5 miles but it did start back up.
Bill L
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B_Lieder Offline
Senior Member
#3
Ok, After looking through my ford fuel injection and EEC book, it lists a few possibilities.

Check all connections...spark plug, coil, ignition module connections and make sure there tight.

Could be a cloged fuel filter.

in the Faq you specified how to see if the fuel rail is pressurizing, i am unsure about how to check and see if fuel squirts. I am sure other NATO members will have a better explanation.

If the engine just spun when you tried to do a rolling start the timimg belt could have broken off. I think if the belt broke you would hear it flap on the cover. You can see if the belt is there. Its on the front of the engine next to the thermostat housing.

Other than that i am out of ideas at the moment. Others may have more opinions.

Good Luck
Bill L
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mjbtbrd Offline
Member
#4
The fuel valve being refered to is the schrader valve....It looks and works kind of like a tire air valve....If you push on the stem with something like a tiny screwdriver fuel should come out after the pump pressurizes...Have a rag there as fuel will come out and wear safety glasses. You can get a spark tester at most auto part places for a few bucks....You put a plug wire on it and ground the other end. When cranking you should see sparks....Neither a bad air charge temp or coolant temp sensor would stop your car from running
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DamnSkippy_87 Offline
Junior Member
#5
I would check the TFI and its pickup sensor. Its inside the distributor. I know these little things have caused me and everyone around here havoc with our Turbo Coupes. They are really easy to fix, and really cheap.
Sounds just like what my car did, and the TFI and PIP thing fixed it.
Just a possibility!

Be sure, in any event to check for spark and make sure its getting fuel, that way you can narrow it down very quickly.
1987 Turbo Coupe
K&N Stock replacement
150,000 miles
formula 1 tint %15
Centerline Wheels 17"
Kenwood Excelon Deck with MASK. Boston Acoustics speakers all the way around
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r3lic76 Offline
Member
#6
in case it's not a TFI problem, make sure your timing belt isn't broke

that sounds exactly what happened to me when my timing belt went (car died while going 30mph then i tried the 2ndgear/clutch drop-start but didn't work).....we didn't see it at first but after cranking the engine a few times, it was noticed that the belt was loose
88 Turbocoupe - T3 conversion - bbk255 - kirban FPR - open 3" dp - ported lower intake
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#7
Take the distributor cap off and crank the engine. This will tell you it the cam belt broke or not and also if the distributor gears are OK. This only tells you if the belt broke. It could still have jumper teeth

Did you pull the continous memory codes after the KOEO? If it's the TFI or PIP it may have set a code. It would be helpful to know. The other codes you got were because it was cold.

[This message has been edited by Pete D (edited 02-16-2003).]
Pete Dunham


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Noname
Guest
#8
Thats what happened with me when my TFI took a shit. It just quit...

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1988 TurboCoupe - 5 Speed - 115k miles - Fully Loaded except Leather
5"x8" K&N in fenderwell, SVO T3 watercooled .63/.60 A/R, Gillis Valve @ 18 psi, Gutted Upper Intake, Ported/Profiled Lower Intake, Cleaned/Flowmatched Stock Injectors, HKS Super Sequential BOV, Walbro 255 HP Fuel Pump, Kirban AFPR, Bob's Big Log Header, 3" DP, No Cat, Dual 2.5" UltraFlos into ATR SS axle/tailpipes, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch, Pro 5.0 Shifter, Koni Adjustable Struts, KYB Gas-A-Just Rear Shocks and Quads, Custom Progressive Rate 1" Lowering Springs, M.M. C/C Plates, Energy Suspension Parts Everywhere, PST Ball Joints/Tie Rod Ends, Various Autometer Phantom Gauges
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b_greve Offline
Junior Member
#9
Thanks all

I'll have a closer look at it today or tommorow to check out the things you recomended.
-Brad Greve - Stock 86 five speed TC other than a K&N in the fender
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b_greve Offline
Junior Member
#10
Well, it turns out it was the ignition module. And thanks to the con-artists at my local Ford dealer, the ignition module, a set of plug wires, and labor came to over $500 bucks [Image: mad.gif] What a rip.
-Brad Greve - Stock 86 five speed TC other than a K&N in the fender
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