Is 194K too much to start pumping the power?

OK, here's one for you all: With 194k miles and counting, should I wait to start pumping up this 87 5 speed? Will I kill it sooner with a Gillis, K&N, and my new 3 inch cat back? I'm not in the habit of abusing my equipment, so I would not be a big factor. Are the mods themselves destructive? I am putting in an 80K complete eng/trans soon, so should I wait until then? Experiences and comments welcome!

Darryl

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87 5-sp, black/red leather. Every option but sunroof.
95 Impala SS Grey/green metallic(was wifes car) FOR SALE
91 Caprice wagon (tricked out for the wife-refused to purchase a minivan)
66 Mustang convt w/5.0 AOD conversion, 4 wheel discs.
73 Mazda Rx2, 220 H.P ported 13B (sorry-it'll pull a bird, unless she was really hopped up)
74 Chev 1/2 ton p/u completely gone through (cause ya gotta have something to carry parts in!)
All living in my 40X72X12 shop. Sweet.

No,the mods don't actually kill the engine,the just help it to work better and actually a little harder.I would say,definitely go with the cat back,your turbo will thank you endlessly and reward you acordingly for it!Ditto with the K&N.The gillis valve will indeed be a big improvement,I would say just to make sure the old engine doesn't blow a gasket on you(literally),keep it set down around 13-14 psi.Before you go through the processes of dropping that other block in,I would say go through it with just a basic rebuild,rings,main&rod bearings and the like,shouldn't really need to go to the shop for any work.Although if it was a relatively clean run engine over all,I would say just a quick run through would be enough before you put it in.Take off the oil pan,throw in a new pump & pick-up and pan gasket(rubber),stick in a new rear main,throw in a new timing set and water pump,and if you plan to get in it with the boost a new quality fel-pro head gasket and NEW HEAD BOLTS and a rubber valve cover gasket and you should be ready to run it for another 100,000.This may sound like a lot right now but you will thank yourself(and me a little I hope [Image: biggrin.gif])for putting these in now after you go through all the trouble and then find one of these things to be leaking a month or two after you get it in especially the pan or rear main trust me.....ask me how I know. [Image: rolleyes.gif]Hope some of this helps!Keep us posted if you need anymore help!Good luck!Oh and I almost forgot,this might be a good time to think about that ranger roller upgrade too.

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Too much fun, what's that mean?That's like too much boost,there's no such thing.

[This message has been edited by Hybridbird (edited 06-08-2002).]

Think of the K&N and the 3" exhaust as freeing up HP that is already there, not adding HP. These are safe mods that free up a few HP from the stock system and are necessary before whatever further improvements you might want to make. Keep the gillis valve in the 15-16 range and don't try to rev 6200 out of it and you should be fine.

I pretty much agree with Hybridbird on the other engine. At minimum, do a new oil pump and pan gasket and rear crank seal. Use the rubber pan seal. If you do new bearings, then use only new rod bolts. Replace the water pump and cam belt.
On the head, get it magnafluxed for cracks around the valve seats and hae it checked for flatness. A valve grind and new stem seals and your good to go. If budget permits, put in new springs and a ranger roller. A little porting work won't hurt anything if it's in the budget. As Hybridbird mentioned the rubber valve cover gasket is superior to the cork ones. Go for it and keep us posted

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NATO Member. it's not a vice, it's an obsession
"The nice thing about each new day is nobody ever used it before" Barnaby Jones
88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, mods list at
http://www.turbotbird.com/showroom/pd_88tc.htm

Thanks guys. I'll start collecting the neccesary parts to 'go through' this 80K engine. The nice part is I can do all this on an engine stand and have it ready for the day she pukes. The 3 inch cat back is awesome-car breathes alot better and is only a tiny bit louder, which is perfect. K&N is next. Will advise all on my progress.

Darryl

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87 5-sp, black/red leather. Every option but sunroof.
95 Impala SS Grey/green metallic(was wifes car) FOR SALE
91 Caprice wagon (tricked out for the wife-refused to purchase a minivan)
66 Mustang convt w/5.0 AOD conversion, 4 wheel discs.
73 Mazda Rx2, 220 H.P ported 13B (sorry-it'll pull a bird, unless she was really hopped up)
74 Chev 1/2 ton p/u completely gone through (cause ya gotta have something to carry parts in!)
All living in my 40X72X12 shop. Sweet.

I would also add a by-pass valve! It just makes it more "driveable" espicially when ya start turning up the boost.
If the 80K engine "looks good" put a rear main seal in, new gaskets all around, and a new (or rebuilt)turbo, and go for it!!! You've already got 194K on the car - swap motors and rebuild the tired one(I started the mods on mine after 155K), so really, what is a tired 2.3 [Image: smile.gif]

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Steve Wagner
Nato member

88TC, 5 speed, StageII Star clutch w/ StageIII pressure plate,lightened flywheel, K&N in fender, gillis valve, 255lph Walbro, Kirban adj.FPR,Bypass valve, 3" exhaust from turbo to tip (high flow cat/ Dynomax Superflo muffler), A-pillar gauges(A/F & Boost), 16" Prime 5 spoke wheels(245/45ZR16 Bridgestones). Workin' on the front mount IC and some exterior mods