North American Turbocoupe Organization



interest in a real IVR?
trashline Offline
Posting Freak
#1
Ive made on for my 66 mustang and there are plans on this website to make one. Since radio shack tend to not sell individual parts I was seeing if anybody was interested in buying one if I made a couple? Not sure how many Id make. They will not be adjustable since ther is no real need to. I will probably charge a dollar an hour to make since imnot out to make money. It will have the heat sink attached to the regulator that can not touch metel. not sure ho wmuch parts will cost but it will be even and shipping usps with insurance. I have tons of free tiem at work when I plan todo this. Just an idea i was throwing around.
Brian

www.BCPCustom.com

06 Cobalt SS
66 mustang 289 C4 handfully modded

Stingers IC install and tbird photos
http://community.webshots.com/user/trashline
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sbhjr44 Offline
Senior Member
#2
I am interested.
Stinger dual3"exhaust from dp & cat to magnaflows w/2.5 outlets w/tailpipes.Homemade CAI w/boost at18psi.MM c/c plates and tubular lca/front coilovers with Koni red adjustables all around. Ported/BV head/A237 and bobslog w/a stinger fmic set-up waiting to go on.86 stang gt w/motor and T-5 from a 86 TC w/3"SS dualexhaust w/cc plates and lowered 1.5".With volvo ic installed.
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Mr C Offline
Member
#3
I would like one if not too expensive.
88 Blue TC, 3" exhst (dn pipe/hi flo cat/Dynomax) to 2-2.5" tailpipes, man boost cntrl, SuperCoupe rad/FMIC w/fan, bpv, 9" K&N, 130A alt, Lincoln frnt clprs, subfrm connectors, Saab airdam, Supercoupe steering colunm/wheel, auto to 5 spd, UPR shftr
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trashline Offline
Posting Freak
#4
probably looking at 15 shipped. the regulator is 2.50 the box is around 3 the heat sink is the same the capacitor are 2 bucks for two resistors are like 150 for 4 just to give some prices.
Brian

www.BCPCustom.com

06 Cobalt SS
66 mustang 289 C4 handfully modded

Stingers IC install and tbird photos
http://community.webshots.com/user/trashline
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tbirdturbo Offline
Banned
#5
i'd be interested
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Fox Chassis Offline
Member
#6
What about using one of these instead?

http://www.dimensionengineering.com/DE-SW0XX.htm

No need for a heat sink, since there is little waste heat. No need for additional caps, since they're built in.
'83 Mustang GT, '84 LTD LX, '85 LTD LX, '86 Mustang GT, '87 Thunderbird TC, '95 Mustang GT 'vert'
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trashline Offline
Posting Freak
#7
Quote:Originally posted by Fox Chassis:
What about using one of these instead?

http://www.dimensionengineering.com/DE-SW0XX.htm

No need for a heat sink, since there is little waste heat. No need for additional caps, since they're built in.
b/c this is the same thing radioshack uses and sells just a bit different the problem is it has to be 5 amps not 1amp. plus 10 bucks for one rasiing the price from 15 to 23. I ordered a couple regulators from a store and they should be here anyday now.
Brian

www.BCPCustom.com

06 Cobalt SS
66 mustang 289 C4 handfully modded

Stingers IC install and tbird photos
http://community.webshots.com/user/trashline
Reply

Fox Chassis Offline
Member
#8
The gauges don't draw more than 1A.

That switching VR costs $10 (if you buy 5 or more). It is all-inclusive so it requires no box, heatsink, capacitors, or resistors, which makes it $2 less expensive than the sum of parts you listed above.
'83 Mustang GT, '84 LTD LX, '85 LTD LX, '86 Mustang GT, '87 Thunderbird TC, '95 Mustang GT 'vert'
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#9
Quote:Originally posted by Fox Chassis:
The gauges don't draw more than 1A.

True, but the max draw of the 3 gauges if all are pegged at max (which is not likely) is close to 1 A (around 800 mA). the standard 7805 5 V 1 A positive regulator is really pushing it to carry the max possibe current the gauges may draw. Also, in the summer, interior temps can hit 140+ deg when the car sits in the sun all day, and at those temps, the max regulator current must be derated, but I forget by how much. That is why my design went with a 5 A regulator with a good sized heat sink. I did a bunch of experiments using a spare TC cluster and rheostats to simulate oil, temp, and fuel senders using a heat sinked 7805 under worst case conditions, and found that it would start to limit output to protect itself from damage, causing the gauges to read low. When I used the 5 A regulator, I didnt see threse problems.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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Fox Chassis Offline
Member
#10
A linear regulator in this application (voltage drop from ~+12.0v to ~+5.0v) gives off a LOT of waste heat as is, that's why the heatsink is needed and remote mounting. Of course having it sit in and function in 140º+ temps exacerbates the problem. Not much room for leeway with a 1A regualtor, as you found through experimentation.

Switching regulators are much more efficient than linear regulators, and therefore produce MUCH less waste heat -- almost none. I don't see where derating would play into this.
'83 Mustang GT, '84 LTD LX, '85 LTD LX, '86 Mustang GT, '87 Thunderbird TC, '95 Mustang GT 'vert'
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