North American Turbocoupe Organization



Intake Hose
Gulfdiver Offline
Senior Member
#1
Can you run water into the hose outlet that sits under the upper intake to clean it out? Also.. on the hose that attaches to this.. there is a white plastic piece with a black stopper in the middle.. does this need to be cleaned if its gummed up? and what is it?

see pics here :

Intake hose : http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/farkwar21/...pg&.src=ph

Intake:
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/farkwar21/...pg&.src=ph

Thanks.. trying to flush the coolant system..
!!!!! MINE ALL MINE !!!!!
1988 TBird Turbo Coupe Mach 1 Special Edition
K&N airfilter; Spec Stage 3.. More mods to come!
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josephmarcum Offline
Junior Member
#2
That looks like your PCV(positive crankcase vent). It does need to be clean enough to let vac through. As far as running water into the lower port, this is something I would not do. If it needs to be cleaned out, I would use carb cleaner and a piece of wire to break up the gue.
FLYNLOW in MS.
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ERIC J snowbird Offline
Posting Freak
#3
This may be just my neurosis speaking, but I don’t like to use carb cleaner in the intake of my TC. I use throttle body cleaner. Carb cleaner may cause some ill effects with the TPS etc. But that’s just me.
- ERIC J
87 Black 5speed, 88 Black 5speed.
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Crawdaddy Offline
Member
#4
If you are trying to flush the cooling system and think this hose is part of the cooling system it is NOT. Do not flush with water you WILL damage engine clean with starter fluid or carb cleaner instead.

The hose goes in to the bottom of the intake for vacuum and the valve is the PCV which can replaced for a couple of bucks no need in cleaning it just replace it ( if the new one has a plastic peace on top with two ports just pull the plastic peace off with a pair of pliers ).

The PCV system pulls fresh air into the crank case and pulls the air (loaded with fumes) out of the crank case into the intake in a constant cycle. The valve controls the amount of air being circulated and keeps boost from being forced back into the crank case which would cause oil leaks.

The slight vacuum this system pulls in the crank case also helps reduce drag on the moving parts (do to wind resistance) and aeration of the oil.
86' 5.0/AOD K&N, MSD, Headers
88' TC T-5 Speed pro forged pistons, Lunati turbo cam, Racer Walsh Valves Intake 1.89" SS Exhaust 1.59" SS 1470 Springs 1476A Retainers, PST front and rear, MM Caster/Camber plates, BBK Pressure regulator, Gillis Valve
92' SC stock
95' LX 4.6/AODE stock
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Crawdaddy Offline
Member
#5
Some throttle bodies have a coating inside of them and carb cleaner will remove the coating that is why they make throttle body cleaner it will not remove this coating.
86' 5.0/AOD K&N, MSD, Headers
88' TC T-5 Speed pro forged pistons, Lunati turbo cam, Racer Walsh Valves Intake 1.89" SS Exhaust 1.59" SS 1470 Springs 1476A Retainers, PST front and rear, MM Caster/Camber plates, BBK Pressure regulator, Gillis Valve
92' SC stock
95' LX 4.6/AODE stock
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#6
Take the PCV valve out of both hoses. Since it is white it may not be the correct Ford Motorcraft replacement part anyway. Test it by holding it straight up and down, small end up. Try to blow through the small end. If it passes ANY air at all, replace it with ONLY Ford P/N: E5ZZ-6A666-A (this is the correct p/n, 5/13/02) The Motorcraft box will also have EV-127-A on it. If the white one is not a Ford part, I would replace it anyway. Most non-Ford pcv valves are not designed to keep boost from entering the crankcase. Always test a new valve before you leave the parts counter.
Pete Dunham


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Gulfdiver Offline
Senior Member
#7
Quote:Originally posted by Crawdaddy:
If you are trying to flush the cooling system and think this hose is part of the cooling system it is NOT. Do not flush with water you WILL damage engine clean with starter fluid or carb cleaner instead.
When I first started flushing the cooling system I did think this was part of it.. til I really looked/smelled it.. I've got a Ford tuneup kit on order (The Ford dealer here has 0 inventory for older cars) Should be here Wed.. so next weekend I'll do the tuneup etc..

I did get my K&N installed tho!! and the coolant system still works great and all new fluid and wetter added.. the dam temp gauge is screwed tho.. It will read almost red from aroun 190* to 210* when the fan kicks in and drops the coolant down to 150*.. The gauge then goes down to about halfway.. A custom instrument cluster is going to be attempted... we'll see how it goes..
!!!!! MINE ALL MINE !!!!!
1988 TBird Turbo Coupe Mach 1 Special Edition
K&N airfilter; Spec Stage 3.. More mods to come!
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#8
Quote:It will read almost red from aroun 190* to 210* when the fan kicks in and drops the coolant down to 150*..
Is this the factory gauge or an aftermarket?

The fan will not take it down to (an actual) 150*F. The 4 blade fan is suppose to come on around 200-210 and go off at 190. It should also come on whenever the A/C is turned on. The 7 blade doesn't come on until 220 and goes off at 210. It also comes on when the A/C head pressure reaches 310 psi.
Pete Dunham


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Gulfdiver Offline
Senior Member
#9
wierd.. stuck a candy therm. in the radiator.. The 4 blade comes on at exactly 210* and runs for about 50 seconds which cools the coolant down to approx. 155*-160*.. The 7 blade never comes on.. btw.. When I was performing the coolant fill and temp test with the candy thermometer I was running the A/C and had the automatic climate control set to 90*..
!!!!! MINE ALL MINE !!!!!
1988 TBird Turbo Coupe Mach 1 Special Edition
K&N airfilter; Spec Stage 3.. More mods to come!
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#10
The radiator temp is only an approximation. The sensor supplying the info to the EEC is the ECT located in the lower intake. And the cap on the radiator is located n the "cool" side of the radiator.
Pete Dunham


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