North American Turbocoupe Organization



Indiglo Gauges
andrewjs18 Offline
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Installation Guide for Indiglo Gauges
By Andrew Nave

This guide was written to take you through the steps necessary to install a set of indiglo white faced gauges. The gauges are available for $69.99 from www.procarparts.com or cheaper on www.ebay.com and will backlight in both blue and green with selectable intensity.

What comes in the box

There are 6 separate gauge face replacements as well as a control panel/wiring harness and a sheet of instructions. The quality of the replacement (or more accurately described “add-on”) gauge panels is excellent. The printing is crisp and the fit is excellent. The directions however are terrible. They were clearly translated from a foreign language to English and they are extremely difficult to follow. They also are specific to a Honda product and reference connections behind the dash that our T-birds do not have. Step one of this guide should be to crumple up the direction sheet and throw it away.

Tools/Supplies needed

Phillips head screwdriver

X-acto knife or razor knife

Torx drivers

¼ inch socket set with extensions

Wire strippers / crimpers

Paint (for the needles)

Test light or voltmeter

Very thin 2 sided tape

Disassembly of your dash

Remove the 2 screws holding the trim around the headlight / fog light switch area and remove panel (this will expose the main dash trim screws)

Remove the 2 screws holding the trim around the premium fuel switch area and remove panel (this will expose the main dash trim screws)

Remove the 10 screws holding the main dash trim in place and remove the trim

Remove the 2 bolts holding the black plastic cover on the headlight / fog light switch area (this is necessary to remove the cluster)

Remove the 4 bolts holding the cluster in place and gently pull cluster out of dashboard

There are 3 things you will need to disconnect before the cluster will remove completely. 2 wiring harnesses and the vacuum line to the boost gauge

You may find it easier to remove the cluster if the tilt wheel is lowered completely

Take the cluster inside to a clean work area, it’s much easier than trying to complete the install in the car

Installing the gauges in your cluster

Start by taking careful notice of where your needles are pointing while the cluster is laying on its back on the table in front of you. I found it helpful to make a few quick sketches of exact needle positions. The needles for the tach, speedo and boost gauge will come off as they are each just pressed onto a small shaft. By carefully prying them up as close to the shaft as possible you will be able to work them off the shafts they are on.

Next, you need to remove the speedo and tach gauges themselves. There are 2 very small Phillips head screws that hold each unit in place. Remove the screws and carefully remove the 2 gauges. You will need to trim the outer lip of both of these gauges in order to make room for the wiring harness on the indiglo gauges. I used a pair of wire cutter and they worked well. Just test fit the new gauge panel and mark where you need to trim. Once both gauges are trimmed you can insert the indiglo gauge panels and attach them with the 2 small Phillips head screws. DO NOT try to remove the old black gauge faces, the white faced panels are made to cover them.

The 4 smaller gauges require a little more finesse. These needles are not removable and they are very fragile. Be careful to not move them around while you are sliding the new faces into position. There is no trimming needed to install these, but there are also no screws to help hold them in place. I used very thin 2 sided tape to help them stay in place. Use very small strips on the back of each gauge face and make sure they are close to the wiring harness as this will help the panel sit flat.

Now it’s time to run the wiring for the white face panels. See the pictures for the route I choose. You will need to trim a small ‘V’ in 2 places on your white plastic housing to let the wires out of the gauge area without being pinched by the black plastic covering. I used the wire cutters and again, they worked well for this job. You may want to tape the loose wiring inside so it does not interfere with the operation of any of the factory gauges, especially the boost gauge. Once the larger needles are dry simply press them back into position.

Reinstall the black plastic cover and the clear plastic cover, making sure all your wiring is clear from being pinched. The cluster is now ready to be reinstalled in the dash.

**side note about cleaning the black plastic while it is apart.. Windex WILL remove the white lettering that says “OIL”, “FUEL” etc..

Reinstalling just the cluster

Reinstall the gauge cluster in the dash just the opposite from the way you removed it. Do not reinstall all the trim at this time, only put the cluster itself back in. You’ll have to wiggle it around a bit to get everything back where it was but it’s not too difficult. Don’t forget to reattach the vacuum line that feeds the boost gauge.

Installing the gauge control panel

Once the cluster is back in you’ll need to install the control panel for the gauges so the unit can be tested before everything is put back together. You’ll need to find someplace within a foot or so of the steering column because they do not provide enough wiring harness to mount the unit in your console, glove box or ashtray. I chose the lower right trim panel under the switches for the ride control, antenna and fuel selector. The wiring is very basic with just a power lead and a ground. The ground is obvious, ground it. The power lead should be hooked up to a lead that only has power when the dash lights come on. There is a fuse in the fuse box for the dash lights and I ran the power wire to the un-powered side of that fuse, in effect, creating an inline fuse for the control box. If the dash light fuse blows, the indiglo will not work. If for some reason the indiglo box fails and creates a power draw, the fuse for the dash lights will blow protecting the rest of the wiring. You could also add your own in-line fuse if you like, the kit does not come with one. You can email me about it if you want more directions on in-line fusing: [email protected]

The other wiring that comes out of the indiglo control box is the extension cable that each of the white face gauge panels plug into. Just run it up under the steering column and plug in the wires running out of your cluster. Turn on your parking lights to check for proper illumination from all the gauges.

Reassembly of the dash

As long as everything lights up the way it is supposed to you are ready to reassemble the rest of the dash panels. Just work in reverse order of how you took it apart and make sure you don’t pinch any wires along the way.
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