North American Turbocoupe Organization



im ready to burn this car..
thumper Offline
Posting Freak
#11
Definitely replace the switch before it goes all the way out and you are stuck drilling the busted, jumbled mess of what-used-to-be an ignition switch out of the whole.

BTDT
A.K.A. Corey Bennett

1988 TC: white, all options, 5-speed swap, K&N cone filter, "Ranger" roller camshaft, .60/.63 T3, NXS (Gillis-style) Boost Valve, Bosch BOV w/ check valve, Stinger 3" with axle dump (18" glass pack), 95A 3G

Some pictures: http://s639.photobucket.com/albums/uu111/cbennett4041/
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JamesW Offline
Member
#12
My negative cable has a smaller wire attached to it with a oval looking thing in it about 12 inches from the end. Do they make a replacement cable that comes with a piece similar to that?
James Westerfield
88: Black Exterior Raven Interior,196,000 Miles, 5 speed,
Gillis Valve, Densacharger Cold Air Kit W/K&N in fender well, Polished upper from Dan E. 4 point cage, black cloth Corbeau seats
(wish I had sprung for the leather ones) 5 point Grant harness.

2001 300M W/90xxx,
1998 Windstar 168xxx gotta drive the kids around
91 Ranger 2.3 W/275,xxx Just an beater to drive to work
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#13
That 2 terminal black connector is the EEC ground and IRCM ground. Dont know if you can get the original cable or not. What I did was cut the wire off the old batt cable, and strip the end. I scraped insilation off the new parts store neg cable a few inches from the batt clamp, and soldered them together That is harder than you might think since the batt cable is so think... (had to use the soldering tip attachment for my propane torch to get enough heat into the connection). Wrapped tight with electrical tape, and then coated it with RTV to make it water tight and to resist corrosion. Been working fine for I dont remember how many years.

I also clean the batt cable connections on all my cars every 2 years whether they look like they need cleaning or not.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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goodstuff84 Offline
Member
#14
well, i changed out my ignition switch, the car started up and shut off perfectly 5 or 6 times, and now it wont start again, dosent even click or anything now, still turns on all the accessories and everything just wont crank, it will start if i put a screwdriver across the solenoid though. any ideas? it almost seems like the switch went bad again but its brand new! im really beginning to hate this car
Justin
88 TC, E-bay 50 trim t3/t4, ported E6, Volvo FMIC, Forge BPV, walbro 255 HP pump, Kirban AFPR, RAM clutch, full 3" stinger single exhaust w/dynomax muffler & dumped at axle, K&N cone on the VAM, *13 base timing, boost @ 20psi. http://s661.photobucket.com/albums/uu337/Goodstuff84/
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TurboCoupe50 Offline
Posting Freak
#15
Possibly the switch connector has been overheated from a prior bad switch... Check the terminals for signs of overheating...
1988 Turbo Coupe331 AOD

1972 Comet GT

1969 Fairlane Cobra 428CJ 4-Speed
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Martin Offline
Senior Member
#16
If you have a test light, get a buddy to help out. Go to the solenoid and put the test light on the small wire to the soleniod. Hook the test wire ground to the battery negative post directly. HIt the ignition. If the test light lights up, the ignition switch is fine, power is going to the starter solenoid. If not,you still have an issue with the switch/switch to solenoid wire.
If it does light up the test light, move the ground from the test light to the blot holding the solenoid on, and try it again. The light should come on again, if not, chances are the ground for the solenoid ( its mounts) are dirty.
Solenoids are also known to go bad. Try giveing the solenoid a few taps, lightly, with the hameer as well.
Stock 87, no mods, Black with the grey interior.
Boost High, Fly Low
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goodstuff84 Offline
Member
#17
well i tried that and the small wire to the solenoid isn't getting power when i turn the key to crank it, so im guessing the new switch went bad after like 5 starts which seems kindof crazy but ive pretty much ruled out the other options. looks like its back to the part store. probably wont get the 11 dollar one from advance auto parts this time, what supplier/brand do you guys recommend?
Justin
88 TC, E-bay 50 trim t3/t4, ported E6, Volvo FMIC, Forge BPV, walbro 255 HP pump, Kirban AFPR, RAM clutch, full 3" stinger single exhaust w/dynomax muffler & dumped at axle, K&N cone on the VAM, *13 base timing, boost @ 20psi. http://s661.photobucket.com/albums/uu337/Goodstuff84/
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#18
What kind of shape is the switch connector and wiring in? We see a lot of failures(overheated or lose) in the connector
Pete Dunham


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goodstuff84 Offline
Member
#19
the wires and plug look fine, i assume they would be yellowed or burnt looking if they had been overheated? the way it worked every time then just stopped all together leads me to think its the switch again, i ordered one from ford today so hopefully thats the culprit
Justin
88 TC, E-bay 50 trim t3/t4, ported E6, Volvo FMIC, Forge BPV, walbro 255 HP pump, Kirban AFPR, RAM clutch, full 3" stinger single exhaust w/dynomax muffler & dumped at axle, K&N cone on the VAM, *13 base timing, boost @ 20psi. http://s661.photobucket.com/albums/uu337/Goodstuff84/
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goodstuff84 Offline
Member
#20
well now i've tried 2 motorcraft ignitions, the plug and wires are fine, they look brand new. The car still wont start unless i jump the solenoid. when i turn the key to the start position im not getting any power to the switch wire on the solenoid, so all i can figure is its a broken wire somewhere, unless there's something else im missing?
Justin
88 TC, E-bay 50 trim t3/t4, ported E6, Volvo FMIC, Forge BPV, walbro 255 HP pump, Kirban AFPR, RAM clutch, full 3" stinger single exhaust w/dynomax muffler & dumped at axle, K&N cone on the VAM, *13 base timing, boost @ 20psi. http://s661.photobucket.com/albums/uu337/Goodstuff84/
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