North American Turbocoupe Organization



im ready to burn this car..
goodstuff84 Offline
Member
#1
well, this thing has left me stranded for probably the 5th time this year.this time it fired up great, i shut it off and went to start it not even a minute later and... click. no start.. its done it to me before but i use a screwdriver to jump the terminals on the solenoid. but now when i do that it dosent do anything at all, dosent even spark when it toughes the other terminal. i know my ignition is on its way out because every now and then my keys jingle the wrong way and the car just shuts off, but this dosent sound like the ignition because the solenoid is clicking, battery is fully charged also. any suggestions? starter? started solenoid? i hate electrical stuff...
Justin
88 TC, E-bay 50 trim t3/t4, ported E6, Volvo FMIC, Forge BPV, walbro 255 HP pump, Kirban AFPR, RAM clutch, full 3" stinger single exhaust w/dynomax muffler & dumped at axle, K&N cone on the VAM, *13 base timing, boost @ 20psi. http://s661.photobucket.com/albums/uu337/Goodstuff84/
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billm Offline
Junior Member
#2
My 88 TC had the same problem. The battery was good, alternator was putting out the correct voltage and the starter was getting the correct voltage. Turned out to be bad terminal ends on the cables that hooked to the battery. They looked OK, but were not tightening up all the way. I replaced the cables and the problem was solved.

HTH
Bill
Bill
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#3
I would get the ignition switch changed even though it may not be the current problem Bad ignition switches can do some real strange thing and they do not repair themselves.

I have had corroded cables do the same thing to me. Look at where the cable enters the connector, It there is a corrosion, replace the cable. I didn't think mine were "that bad" that it could keep it from starting, but new cables solved the problem. Good time to clean the major grounds also. They are just as important as any other connection in the circuit.
Pete Dunham


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goodstuff84 Offline
Member
#4
well the terminals on the battery are brand new, i cleaned up the cable ends and put new terminals on it less than a month ago. not sure about the other end, i know the positive cable goes to the starter solenoid, but where does the negative cable to go? it goes down into the engine bay and i cant see where it connects to, its a little too wet to climb under there at the moment.
Justin
88 TC, E-bay 50 trim t3/t4, ported E6, Volvo FMIC, Forge BPV, walbro 255 HP pump, Kirban AFPR, RAM clutch, full 3" stinger single exhaust w/dynomax muffler & dumped at axle, K&N cone on the VAM, *13 base timing, boost @ 20psi. http://s661.photobucket.com/albums/uu337/Goodstuff84/
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#5
It should ground on one of the two bottom fasteners for the power steering pump bracket. You also need to look at the cable to the starter.
Pete Dunham


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Ra Offline
Junior Member
#6
You may also want to try cleaning where the solenoid bolts to the fender well, it might not be getting a good ground.
stock except for a K&N Cone
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goodstuff84 Offline
Member
#7
well i checked all the wires and they seemed ok, tightened down the solenoid to make sure it had a good ground, finally i just pounded the crap out of the starter with a hammer, and it fired right up, so looks like its time for a new starter i guess
Justin
88 TC, E-bay 50 trim t3/t4, ported E6, Volvo FMIC, Forge BPV, walbro 255 HP pump, Kirban AFPR, RAM clutch, full 3" stinger single exhaust w/dynomax muffler & dumped at axle, K&N cone on the VAM, *13 base timing, boost @ 20psi. http://s661.photobucket.com/albums/uu337/Goodstuff84/
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#8
Quote: i just pounded the crap out of the starter with a hammer, and it fired right up, so looks like its time for a new starter i guess
Yep, I wouldn't replace the hammer! Big Grin
Pete Dunham


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imjamesw Offline
Senior Member
#9
My starter did the same thing after a joke of a company towed it last summer. I couldn't even get the crank to turn with a breaker bar. I unbolted the starter, had to pry it loose and re-bolted it. It's been fine every since and I start it nearly every day. It just got bound up on the flywheel.

I second what Pete said about the ign switch. I've replaced mine 3 times since I've owned it. Very easy job and a bad switch definitely causes strange problems and will leave you stranded someday. In fact, I keep a spare in my center console, along with a phillips screwdriver and a torx driver.
88 Medium Red Turbo Coupe. 172K. Stock. Horrible A4LD. 5k miles since 2006. She will be a part of my family as long as I am.
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#10
You said you just replaced the batt cable ends? Did you use those ones where you strip the end off the cable, and clamp the cable to the batt clamp? If so, YOU ARE ASKING FOR TROUBLE.... THOSE ARE TOTAL CRAP, CORRODE EASILY, AND DONT CONDUCT CURRENT WELL. Spend the $6 per cable and replace the entire cables.

Like James said, these ig sw's fail regularily. Like James, I carry a spare swiitch and tools to remove / replace it in the trunk.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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