Ignition Timing

Can someone help me out here?

I am trying to set my ignition timing, but the manuals have nothing in them about it...

It's an 87 TC.....right no w/o SPOUT connector, timing is about 5 ATDC....I want to get it set to 12 BTDC without Spout....

If it is that far off (15 deg), I bet your timing belt has jumped a tooth. Did the car suddenly start to run poorly? If so, I am almost positive that is what happened. I would replace the belt, line everything up, and then worry about setting the ignition timing.

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Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 20 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 00 Windstar (wifes vehicle)

Alright...Will check the belt and get everything lined up...

However, once I get it lined up, how do I get the base timing where I want it..If i understand correctly, lining everything up will get it to the stock 10* BTDC, and I would like to advance it to 12* (once the car is running properly, of course)

Once you are sure the cam timing is correct, and the dist rotor is pointed at the #1 plug wire terminal on the cap, you are ready to set the timing. You need to loosen the dist. hold down bolt. It is a PITA to get to. It is a 17 mm head, and is between where the dist goes into the block and the vertical wall of the block, under the PVC hose. I use a 18" long 3/8" extension with a "wobble" end on it. I use electrical tape to tape the 3/8" drive 17 mm socket to the expension so it doesnt fall off all the time. I get at the bolt by going down in back of the alt, along sie the dist, and just touching the end of the fuel rail. I use the socket to push the PCV hose out of the way. Once you loosen the bolt 1/2 to 1 turn, you will be able to rotate the dist, which changes the base timing. Rotate it until you get 10 or 12 deg with the SPOUT out, and retighten the bolt. Recheck timing to be sure it didnt move when you tightened the bolt. Remember to put the SPOUT back in when done.

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Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 20 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 00 Windstar (wifes vehicle)

Can you offer up any suggestions on getting everything lined up?

I will set the crank to TDC, and then line the cam up, and set the rotor to plug #1, and the put everything, and when i check the timing with the SPOUT out...i get 10* ATDC....for the life of me i can't get it to be 10 BTDC...any help would be greatly appreciated..

use a timing light

Sounds to me like the rotor isn't on the #1 plug but the #3 plug...

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88TC 5spd, Shortblock with Crower 5.5" Sportsman Rods and Short Wiseco Pistons bored .030" Over, Ported Head with Polished Combustion Chambers, Gutted & Polished Upper, Ported & Polished Lower, Polished T/B, Ported E6, SVO T3 Turbo, 3" DP w/No Cat, RR Cam, Adjustable Cam Sprocket, K&N in Fenderwell, Gillis Boost Valve, Centerforce I Clutch, Removed A/C, Polished Wheels, Polished Valve Cover, Polished Crank and W/P Pullies, and the DAMN Heater Core is new too !

Originally posted by Dan E:
Sounds to me like the rotor isn't on the #1 plug but the #3 plug...

I have triple and quadrupled check this....the rotor is dead on at the #1 plug, and the Cam is set, and the crank goes to TDC....now with the spout in...the timing is about 1 or 2 degrees. BTDC, is this correct?

Originally posted by Gregg:
...now with the spout in...the timing is about 1 or 2 degrees. BTDC, is this correct?

No. With the spout in the timing should be around 30deg BTDC.

One more thought. The Crank rotates twice for each rotation of the Cam. It is possible to have the Cam Sprocket 180 degs off.

Okay, I noticed the exact technique for checking timing was not in this thread, so, just to make sure that nothing is missed, here is how I checked my timing. I'm sure that others will note if there are improvements to this technique.

1. Warm up the car.

2. Hook up timing light to number one wire and battery

3. Loosen distributor hold down bolt, using whatever tools and profanity necessary.

4. Start car.

5. Aim light at timing mark, and pull trigger. Rotate distributor as needed to make the timing light flash as the mark is aligned with 10 degrees BTDC, 12 degrees if you have good gas, 6 degrees if you are on your way to the emissions test.

6. Retighten distributor bolt, using same tools and optional profanity from earlier steps, being careful not to disturb the distributor.

7. Re-attach spout. Timing should now show more advanced than the setting from step 5.

8. Put tools away, clean up bloody knuckles if necessary.

Everyone probably already knows all of this, but I figured I'd include it in the thread just in case someone doesn't, or I'm doing it wrong.

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Mike Walsted

1986 5-speed TurboCoupe .

[This message has been edited by Walsted (edited 05-19-2001).]