North American Turbocoupe Organization



Ignition switch! FINALLY!
thumper Offline
Posting Freak
#1
I'm now driving my project car daily, and I've been fixing a bunch of little odd things that have been wrong with it. When I was trying to sort out my windshield wiper blades and their inability to park, I noticed that the previous owner held the ignition switch together with a zip tie! I replaced the switch, and am now looking at the connector. Its melted pretty good, but it seems to be holding until I can get a new one. One of the wires is melted off (the one going to the gauges) so I'm going to reconnect that. The other wires however are in tact, so I would just like to remove the terminals from the gang connector and clip them into a new connector. I was going to get the connector at Oreillys ($3!).

Any tips/special tools to remove the individual wires from the gang connector? I was trying a scratch awl, but I wasn't pushing in the right place I think...

Any other suggestions?
A.K.A. Corey Bennett

1988 TC: white, all options, 5-speed swap, K&N cone filter, "Ranger" roller camshaft, .60/.63 T3, NXS (Gillis-style) Boost Valve, Bosch BOV w/ check valve, Stinger 3" with axle dump (18" glass pack), 95A 3G

Some pictures: http://s639.photobucket.com/albums/uu111/cbennett4041/
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vinnietbird Offline
Senior Member
#2
I tiny little screw driver...like for eye glasses works great.
1988 Thunderbird. No details will be given or spoken of.
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thumper Offline
Posting Freak
#3
Do you stick it in the side were the male terminal goes, or do you pack probe the connector and get at it from the wire side?
A.K.A. Corey Bennett

1988 TC: white, all options, 5-speed swap, K&N cone filter, "Ranger" roller camshaft, .60/.63 T3, NXS (Gillis-style) Boost Valve, Bosch BOV w/ check valve, Stinger 3" with axle dump (18" glass pack), 95A 3G

Some pictures: http://s639.photobucket.com/albums/uu111/cbennett4041/
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Paulie Offline
Banned
#4
Sir They are removed by inserting a flat tiny screwdriver on the connector side. Not the wire side. They clip into the harmonica connector and the blade faces the wire. You need to slave out that switch with a Bosch 75 AMP relay.You will be needing one of these

http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx46/...001-31.jpg

Call your ford DEALER

Or Summit motor plugs. 1 800 275 1043 they supply connectors for FORD cars. Hope this helps.
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thumper Offline
Posting Freak
#5
Right, I have one of those connectors on order. Should be here Friday.

Where to you run the relay, Paulie? To those heavy gauge yellow wires from the batter?
A.K.A. Corey Bennett

1988 TC: white, all options, 5-speed swap, K&N cone filter, "Ranger" roller camshaft, .60/.63 T3, NXS (Gillis-style) Boost Valve, Bosch BOV w/ check valve, Stinger 3" with axle dump (18" glass pack), 95A 3G

Some pictures: http://s639.photobucket.com/albums/uu111/cbennett4041/
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Paulie Offline
Banned
#6
Sir You have to pick out all the accessory wiring. Blower Motor ETC. and leave the running circuits in the ignition switch. This will take up most of the heavy load off the switch. Its the wires that burn or turn colors that have to be slaved out. I do a lot of these and once done it will never have a switch problem again. The total amount of current flowing through the switch is app 50 Amps. I read it once. Once you slave the accessories the current drops to a couple of amps for the rest of the circuits. Totally exceptible and easy for the new switch to handle. Hope this Helps. Thank you sir
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thumper Offline
Posting Freak
#7
No, thank you sir!
A.K.A. Corey Bennett

1988 TC: white, all options, 5-speed swap, K&N cone filter, "Ranger" roller camshaft, .60/.63 T3, NXS (Gillis-style) Boost Valve, Bosch BOV w/ check valve, Stinger 3" with axle dump (18" glass pack), 95A 3G

Some pictures: http://s639.photobucket.com/albums/uu111/cbennett4041/
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